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Anyone ever use these?

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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:30 AM
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Default Anyone ever use these?



My friend recommended these to me for putting on my stock exhaust manifolds. Never heard of them myself but he puts stock in them. Anyone else ever use or know anything about Splitlock bolts?
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:04 PM
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Why would you consider them?

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Why would you consider them?

RACE ON!!!
Are you asking me why I would use a locking bolt on a part that is made from a different material than what it is connecting to and which also endures vibration and thermal cycling?
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Why would you consider them?

RACE ON!!!
Im agreeing...why would you need those for stock manifolds?
ALso,doesnt some of the manifold bolts have studs on them to connect like the dip tube,a/c or alt bracket and something else?

Ive seen people with headers have problems with bolts coming loose,so maybe those you posted work well there.But I have reused my stock bolts everytime for manifold removal and install and they never came loose.

Just asking,not trying to be a pryck.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 01:20 AM
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I would think they would be a good applications for headers... ??
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 01:35 AM
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You don't need them on the stock manifolds. Plus they probably don't make em long enough for the bosses.

The bosses are nice as they allow the torqued bolt to stretch more, and less likely to loosen up. This is because it has to rotate quite a bit more to come loose than a bolt on a 1/4" flange would.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 01:59 AM
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I am removing my headers and installing stock manifolds which I bought from someone else. The stock manifolds dont have any bolts and I dont particularly care for my current locking bolts:



Not that they dont seem to work but they are a pain in the butt to remove, so installation will most likely be the same. My friend suggested the split locks to make the job a bit easier and still have the locking ability. Its a force of habit for me to want to lock anything that temperature cycles, vibrates, and/or is high energy (pressure, temp, etc...).
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 02:11 AM
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I put Percy's alumininum header gaskets on it and with all the time/money I saved on bolts, I spent on Budweiser.

I purchase all my hardware here:

mcmaster.com

Excellent catalog, high grade flange hex bolts and every single other type of fastener or material or tool you'll ever need, and cheaper than any hardware store if you can stand to wait for shipping.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:35 AM
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I have that style on my headers. They do work very well.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Performance nut
Are you asking me why I would use a locking bolt on a part that is made from a different material than what it is connecting to and which also endures vibration and thermal cycling?
NO! I am first asking if loosening exhaust manifold bolts are a problem for you? Since it isn't a common problem, I am then asking why you would spend time and money to cure a nonexistent problem?

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
NO! I am first asking if loosening exhaust manifold bolts are a problem for you? Since it isn't a common problem, I am then asking why you would spend time and money to cure a nonexistent problem?

RACE ON!!!
Ah, I see. I guess I should of put this in the first line I suppose.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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It really wouldn't have helped much, in that stock manifolds rarely leak, and you weren't already having a problem with them. And I was thinking, as mentioned above, that you would have a hard time finding a bolt like that long enough for stock manifolds.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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Stock manifold bolts are 2" long. And I'm pretty sure the bolt head is not close enough to a header tube to use the other type of locking bolt you mentioned.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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Good to hear the stock manifolds dont leak, one less thing to worry about. Anyone got info on the stock bolts, I think I will try CentralCoaster's link to order bolts. I am thinking this should work but I am not sure how long, since obviously size matters.


Head Style Flange 12 Point
Material Type Steel
Finish Plain
Grade/Class Not Rated
System of Measurement Inch
Inch Thread Size 1/4"-20
Thread Style Right Handed
Flange Diameter 3/8"
Specifications Met American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
ASTM Specification ASTM A574

I base this on the bolts I am removing. The header bolts used a 3/8" to remove and the threads dont look fine (28 TPI).

Edit: Quick draw Central... while I was typing.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:44 PM
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Get something like this:

92316A632

You don't want to mess around with low grade bolts on exhaust. This is a really common size, even for a flange bolt, local Napa might also have them, or else Summit.


Bolts are 3/8-16x2in
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Get something like this:

92316A632

You don't want to mess around with low grade bolts on exhaust. This is a really common size, even for a flange bolt, local Napa might also have them, or else Summit.


Bolts are 3/8-16x2in
Perfecto... grazie
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 02:25 PM
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Lowe's, Home Depot, or any half decent hardware store should have that super common size bolt. A grade 5 should be more than sufficient, especially going into aluminum.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Lowe's, Home Depot, or any half decent hardware store should have that super common size bolt. A grade 5 should be more than sufficient, especially going into aluminum.

RACE ON!!!
They usually don't carry flange bolts though. Regular hex bolts are harder to work with and require washers, so I prefer the flange bolts (so does the factory) if I can afford to wait the extra time for shipping. Especially on ones that go on from underneath or in hard to reach places. Try putting the oil pan in with flange vs regular bolts. Also strength isn't so important as withstanding corrosion and high temperature. Higher grade bolts will perform better. I guess strength would be most important when trying to remove a bolt that's rusted in place.

Last edited by CentralCoaster; Apr 17, 2007 at 03:05 PM.
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