C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

OPTI - MSD or Dyna?

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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 04:04 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
***** Fu*ker replacing the opti did not fix my problem fu******K.

Anyone want to buy a Ruby?

How long did it take to replace the Opti?

Just curious, may be doing it myself & wondering how long to look at.

How difficult was it pulling the harmonic balancer?
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 05:19 PM
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I too replaced my opti w/MSD components and it didn't fix my high rpm miss. I have been going back over EVERYTHING to see if I missed something (bad plug/arcing wires) and haven't fixed the problem yet. It is either ecm/harness related or mechanical. My lt4 has 80k but it may be time to look into a 383........
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rg951
How long did it take to replace the Opti?

Just curious, may be doing it myself & wondering how long to look at.

How difficult was it pulling the harmonic balancer?
I don't work fast so it took me about 4 hours.
When I had done the opti last time I had put anti seize on the harmonic hub so it popped off with a few hits. First time it was tough, I used a piece of wood between it and the old opti and had to rotate the engine at each little bit pryed till it would come off.

Originally Posted by bent
I too replaced my opti w/MSD components and it didn't fix my high rpm miss. I have been going back over EVERYTHING to see if I missed something (bad plug/arcing wires) and haven't fixed the problem yet. It is either ecm/harness related or mechanical. My lt4 has 80k but it may be time to look into a 383........
I'm starting to think mechanical, going to get a fuel press guage to verify fuel pump operation, then go to a leak down test.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
I don't work fast so it took me about 4 hours.
When I had done the opti last time I had put anti seize on the harmonic hub so it popped off with a few hits. First time it was tough, I used a piece of wood between it and the old opti and had to rotate the engine at each little bit pryed till it would come off.
Thanks


I usually take my time & go over everything twice & three times.

Just trying to get an idea of what I'm looking at (big picture) before I go in. I've replace the water pump, radiator, heater core, & starter in this car so far...so I have a general idea.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
He thought it was in the ignition based on test driving it.


Guess that is next.
Here is what I am thinking,
Maybe the fuel pump is going or maybe it's the computer
I like fuel pump, not so much a fan of the computer. They are weird, but usually just quit... If it's the original, tho... hm... capacitors and such just start to go outside of their expected range and all bets are off.

Does it happen all the time, or only when warm? Next time, pull the cover off the ECU, then hit it with some cool spray, see if things start to work better. or, strap a ziplock of ice atop of the computer, and see what it does as things get warm.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 12:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bogus
I like fuel pump, not so much a fan of the computer. They are weird, but usually just quit... If it's the original, tho... hm... capacitors and such just start to go outside of their expected range and all bets are off.

Does it happen all the time, or only when warm? Next time, pull the cover off the ECU, then hit it with some cool spray, see if things start to work better. or, strap a ziplock of ice atop of the computer, and see what it does as things get warm.
Doesn't seem as bad when cold but as soon as it's at op temp for 5 minutes it misses. The area of the ECU isn't hot yet, barely warm.

I just took a cruise with it missing and a fuel pressure guage on it.
It's not the fuel pump guess I'm doing a leak down test next, unless someone has another suggestion.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 12:39 PM
  #27  
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I was just reading the FSM going through some of the trouble shooting procedures and one of the things it said to check was the EVAP solenoid check valve.

Using the chart it says I have a bad solenoid.
Could that possibly cause the problem?
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 04:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
I was just reading the FSM going through some of the trouble shooting procedures and one of the things it said to check was the EVAP solenoid check valve.

Using the chart it says I have a bad solenoid.
Could that possibly cause the problem?
I just installed the new solenoid and will test it tonight after dinner. The line going to the charcol canister is filled with charcol. is that normal? Also the old solenoid was filled with charcol is that normal? I don't want to mess up the new part.

I report back in a few hours if this solved the problem
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
I'll report back in a few hours if this solved the problem
Problem still there
Guess one more thing eliminated.
Looks like a leak down test is next
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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I would do the leak down and go from there.

It may also be worth removing the valve covers and checking for play in the valve train. You may also have a weak lifter... never know for sure. Something like that would make a tick, tho.

As an aside, a friend of mine here has an early 90s MR2 turbo. It was running ok, but down on power. No noises, just weaker than normal(no comments, ok?). He did a compression test and one cylinder was DEAD. He found the exhaust valve was cracked, causing a pressure loss in that cylinder, killing performance.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
***** Fu*ker replacing the opti did not fix my problem fu******K.

Anyone want to buy a Ruby?
Reply




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