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Can't you find TDC by marking where #1 is on the cap with a marker on the metal base and then, taking the cap off and slowly turning the motor over by hand till the rotor is pointed right at where the number one contact is ?
Actually to find TDC is easy. To line up cylinder No 1 you make sure the notch is in line on the harmonic balancer. To find the TDC of the other cylinders I made a circle out of a bit of cardboard and drew lines every 45 degrees. I placed the cardboard over the distributor and placed a pointer on the rotor to point to the line on the cardboard. Then you turn the crank and line up the pointer with the line following the firing order 1, 8 etc.
I used this when changing the valve seals, I tried the air commpressor way but found using rope in the cylinder was far simpler.
Just curious as to why the 5/8 turn is used when the FSM indicates one full turn beyone the zero lash. Trying to learn something here!
Indeed my '88 FSM does state to "tighten 1 additional turn" but I had read elsewhere about the potential damage from overtightening and thought about the "accuracy" of determining zero lash. So I opted to go with 1/2 turn plus 1/8 turn, since I determined that I could set zero lash to within +/- 1/8 turn, putting my preload at 1/2-3/4 turn. Since my L98 now shifts around 5,800rpm with stock lifters I have no fear that they will "pump up" and cause troubles at higher than stock RPM.
I've used this method twice when adjusting my ProMagnum RRs with very good results each time. Since the valve train is even quieter than stock I know that I have "enough" preload on the lifter plungers.
I tried the air commpressor way but found using rope in the cylinder was far simpler.
Though I never tried compressed air I found the rope trick to be very simple to use. I used a large flat blade screw driver in the spark plug hole to signal that I was very near TDC after the intake vavle closed, removed the screw driver, inserted the rope and turned the crank till tight.