Is this possible?
No, only have had the pcv valve and grommet replaced. The shop thinks the problem is the pcv system has too much pressure to handle due to ring blowby. Is it even possible for a car with like-new compression to have ring blowby and resulting elevated crankcase pressure? That's what I'm having a hard time buying.
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The mechanic pulled the valve covers for the leak down test and had an instrument to measure combustion bypass around the valves when the pistons moved. He just said the leakdown was well within normal range. The compression was recorded after 3-4 rotations to get a full reading (the 1st stroke yielded 130-135psi across the board), the 200-205 psi readings as I understand yields 9.5:1 stock compression and is close to new-engine compression. I didn't press the guy too hard on these test results as it was HE who claimed the engine was likely worn out and therefore had the ring blowby creating the pressure that broke the intake manifold gasket seal he repaired. His own test showed otherwise and weakened his worn engine assumption. The car does not blow out oil from the exhaust, just broke 100K miles, and runs fine, so I found this "worn engine" reasoning hard to believe in the 1st place.
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I should've just let the b&^ch leak. A little over a year ago I had another shop do the same intake manifold gasket seal job as this shop did just 3 weeks ago (and re-did again just last week). It was botched the 1st 2 times by 2 different shops, I can't see oil leaking from the intake yet on this latest 3rd try, but the car did have 3 small oil drops under it over the weekend. To top it off the 2nd shop tells me the intake manifold gasket will likely blow out again because the engine is shot and likely needs an overhaul.
You have a real "Catch 22" here. He won't redo his work because he says the problem is caused by a worn out engine. Then his very questionable tests say the engine isn't warn out. So why isn't he tearing into it?
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More BS from this guy. There is no "correct" compression pressure for any given compression ratio. The cam timing has more to do with cranking compression numbers than the compression ratio. A brand new, L98, I don't care what year, with what factory compression ratio, will not have 200+ psi cranking compression.
You have a real "Catch 22" here. He won't redo his work because he says the problem is caused by a worn out engine. Then his very questionable tests say the engine isn't warn out. So why isn't he tearing into it?
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His story didn't make sense to me neither--he's telling me my engine is worn even after his own tests show the opposite. The leak down test was his idea at first then he backed away from doing it, then I insisted he do it as well as a compression check since I found his worn engine blame hard to buy. Actually since his bill for this work is on a credit card bill that I haven't paid yet and isn't due for another 10 days, I got some ground to stand on if it starts leaking within a week like the last time. I'm not interested in having him try to get right a 3rd time, would rather just dispute the bill with the cc company. Thanks for your input.
and I question his readings of 200-205, those are some pretty damn high numbers, now the 130-135 I could believe! And if in fact those were the actual numbers I'd say they're starting to get a little low. And at least in my experience it's quite common to see a little oil residue in a PVC, as a matter of fact, I can't remember ever seeing one without, accept when they're new outa the box. I just have to question this guys abilities.
If this guy were really a pro, and he even suspected the engine was unhealthy, he should have SOLD you a quickie compression test, before hand, to verify the the intake gasket operation had a good chance of holding. And if not, to SELL you an overhaul. After the fact, in order to back up his excuse making, the tests, regardless of the outcomes, should be on him.
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It sure as hell can. Depends on the temperature of the engine, strength of the starter & battery, etc. I pulled 190-200 on my stock engine doing it hot. PSI readings dropped quickly as it cooled off.
I know what you're thinking, 14.7 x CR = Compression reading (psia).
If this was true, all our motors would read 120 psi and even that assumed perfect VE at cranking speed (not gonna happen).
The numbers are closer to 200 because the air heats up as it's compressed quickly. A hot motor will allow it the air to heat up more, thus showing a higher reading. The compression readings should be done as quickly as possible on a hot motor for this reason. Also, as you get to the last cylinders, the battery charge will be weaker and the DC starter motor won't turn the engine over as quickly.
For best results, do the test, then do it again in reverse order, and keep the battery on a charger as much as possible.
Cold compression checks don't make much sense to me.

This happens mostly at WOT, especially lower rpms. The PCV doesn't get much vacuum here so it can't pull much.
I get quite a few oil leaks from what I think is high crankcase pressure also, yet my compression checks are good and pump up in 4 cranks. I have yet to do a leakdown check.



A CC dispute is not an automatic refund.
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