Eagle 383 and LT4 hotcam
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Eagle 383 and LT4 hotcam
I have a 350 roller block and have been thinking of putting an internal balance 383 stroker kit. Eagle said they could not and would not tell me what roller cams would have clearance from the crankshaft. Has anyone used this combination with good results?
Regards
Regards
Race Director
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When using stock base circle cams, almost every stoker crank and rod will still need clearancing to work. At least based on my experience. I would recommend grinding a cam on a .890 base circle to minimize your clearancing troubles.
Le Mans Master
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From: Kempner Texas
According to the info posted about their engines, they use an Eagle "H" beam rod that already has the needed clearance. The ad spcifically said that there is no need to use a reduced base circle cam when running those rods.
The ad didn't mention the part number of the rods, but I suppose if someone calls them they can tell you which ones they are.
I almost positive, though, that the block will have to be clearanced for the longer stroke crank.
Jake
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I think I will stay with the 350. I know that the block would take some grinding. The cam thing though is hard to get around. If I wanted a 383 real bad I should have bought a short block.
Thanks all Ed
Thanks all Ed
Racer
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From: edmonton alberta
I'm using a eagle forged crank 3.75 inch,with the h-beam rods and my cam has 540 int /560 exh every stroker engine needs block clearance .for cam to rod clearance the eagle h beam rods you can get away with it as long as you dont have a huge cam .the engine that was in my car has the eagle 3.75 inch 1 pcs seal with eagle i beams and lt4 hot cam and did have to grind the rods at the bolt not much.now i'm going all forged with with h beams and we got the engine mocked up and the block was clearanced they all have to be. but no rod to camshaft interference at all.
Last edited by etown brawler; May 1, 2007 at 03:56 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
edoad
You need to leave the cam selection for last until you mock-up the block first with crank, rods and pistons to insure sufficient block clearance.Then take a lt1 cam with a known base circle dimension and install with timing chain to check for how much interference/clearance you have and order the cam accordingly.There is not a one size fits all method here.Rod length also plays a factor toward clearance due to angularity variations. That's why the seller can't tell you. Every rod brand is just a little different from the next. I have found though that the Lunati pro mod rod seems to have better clearance than most from my experience with engine builds. Just a little more expensive. I currently run a (396) 3.875 stroker crank with 5.875 lunati pro mod rods and a 1.050 base circle cam and still have about .075 rod/cam clearance which is acceptable. So you see it all depends. I wouldn't worry about the cam until you pass the block clearance issues with rods pistons ,and crank rotation.
Rick
You need to leave the cam selection for last until you mock-up the block first with crank, rods and pistons to insure sufficient block clearance.Then take a lt1 cam with a known base circle dimension and install with timing chain to check for how much interference/clearance you have and order the cam accordingly.There is not a one size fits all method here.Rod length also plays a factor toward clearance due to angularity variations. That's why the seller can't tell you. Every rod brand is just a little different from the next. I have found though that the Lunati pro mod rod seems to have better clearance than most from my experience with engine builds. Just a little more expensive. I currently run a (396) 3.875 stroker crank with 5.875 lunati pro mod rods and a 1.050 base circle cam and still have about .075 rod/cam clearance which is acceptable. So you see it all depends. I wouldn't worry about the cam until you pass the block clearance issues with rods pistons ,and crank rotation.
Rick
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I always thought so, too, Pete. But I just did a GOOGLE search for LT1 stroker engines and found a Dallas company that sells LT1 stroker short blocks; (ad says they have 10 in stock).
According to the info posted about their engines, they use an Eagle "H" beam rod that already has the needed clearance. The ad spcifically said that there is no need to use a reduced base circle cam when running those rods.
The ad didn't mention the part number of the rods, but I suppose if someone calls them they can tell you which ones they are.
I almost positive, though, that the block will have to be clearanced for the longer stroke crank.
Jake
According to the info posted about their engines, they use an Eagle "H" beam rod that already has the needed clearance. The ad spcifically said that there is no need to use a reduced base circle cam when running those rods.
The ad didn't mention the part number of the rods, but I suppose if someone calls them they can tell you which ones they are.
I almost positive, though, that the block will have to be clearanced for the longer stroke crank.
Jake
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Kempner Texas
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
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From: Yorktown Heights NY
I've been running the Hot Cam with the Eagle cast crank 6" SIR rods and SRP forged pistons with floating pin. 
I had to clearance grind the block rail and also the rod cap bolts.
Been running it since 1999 and it's performed flawlessly ever since
I had to clearance grind the block rail and also the rod cap bolts.
Been running it since 1999 and it's performed flawlessly ever since
Thread Starter
Instructor
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Well this 383 thing just won't leave my head. I have a LT4 hot cam that is a regrind so it may have a smaller than stock base circle. If you had no real problems with the Eagle kit than I shouldnt have any . The extra 33" is like 30 or more free HP.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Portland Oregon
If you use H beam Eagle rods or any aftermarket stroker profiled rod, you will not have any problems with a standard base circle camshaft. Also as for block clearancing, doing a 383 is the most common stroker package for the SBC. Most machine shops charge a very nominal fee for block clearancing, its cake for 99% of machine shops.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Chesapeake Va
If you use H beam Eagle rods or any aftermarket stroker profiled rod, you will not have any problems with a standard base circle camshaft. Also as for block clearancing, doing a 383 is the most common stroker package for the SBC. Most machine shops charge a very nominal fee for block clearancing, its cake for 99% of machine shops.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Portland Oregon
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Kempner Texas
I had CompCams regrind a roller cam for me but I was warned by their Tech Support that the heat treament could be ground through, so there was no warranty.
Sure enough, after a few hundred miles, a few of the lobes became almost round. Seems that once the wear begins it continues unabated.
Considering all the work involved in changing the cam, I suggest you reconsider that move. It's like flipping a coin to run a re-ground one.
Jake
Last edited by JAKE; May 18, 2007 at 05:12 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,997
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From: Lake Ozark MO
Or you can use a Canton road race pan that is already set up for stroker engine combination.
. The Canton pan is a nice piece of work and anyone purchasing it will be happy.EDIT: After a bit of research (from more than just Chevy posts) the Fel-pro "blue silicon" oil pan gasket just leaks. This is what I currently have installed and I have a minor leak. In my previous engine I ran a Mr. Gasket Ultra-Pro without issue. Looks like I'm gonna have to suck it up and do a replacement.
Last edited by Dan Parker '96; May 19, 2007 at 11:50 PM.
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I got my 383 Eagle kit and installed all of the piston and rod assy 2 by 2 to mark for the places to grind for clearance. All fit ! Took a little off of the top of 8 rod bolts just to make myself feel good.
I think someone on this or a simular string said he had to grind a few of the rod bolts and that was it. It is so.
I think someone on this or a simular string said he had to grind a few of the rod bolts and that was it. It is so.