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Vortech YSI install pics

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Old May 3, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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Default Vortech YSI install pics

Some of you probably have seen my recent purchase of a Vortech YSI head unit. For those that don't here's the thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1686928

For those that are unfamiliar with the Vortech head units, here is a little info on the YSI. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...=16&cat_key=20
I guess this blower has been really popular with the NMRA EFI RENEGADE class. I started doing some research and found this blower have been taking the ford guys in the mid 8s @ over 160mph with only 360 cubes.
After that, I started to ask around to see if there were any C4s with this setup. I talked to Greg at blowerworks and he said he's currently working on a few C4s with the YSI. However, No numbers and no results as of right now. Forum member qwiketz is also installing one on his 383 LT1 right now.
With the help from blowerworks I finally got the ***** to order this head unit and all the parts necessary to complete the install.

I went by the shop today where the car is being worked on and took a few pics.




This picture show how much of the hood had to be cut in order to fit the head unit.


I also changed out the valve covers to complete the polished aluminum look.

Here is a before pics with different covers on


Right now everything is just being test fitted on the car. Both the pipe to the TB and to the Air filter are going out tomorrow to get polished.

Everything should be done in about a week, then I'm sure a lot of tuning has to be done with the DFI. Luckily, I have a WBo2.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Last edited by zelement; May 3, 2007 at 09:59 PM.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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- As if the T-trim wasn't big enough
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Old May 3, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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I never made good power with the T because I was running a underdrive pulley with 6 rib
I ended up selling the T for a very good price and went down to the S trim. Made awesome power but now I NEED MORE!
I want to embarass the new Z07 blue devils.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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Paul,
What size is the volute on the YSI? I wonder if this unit is similar to the D1R? The D1R flows in the neighborhood of 2100 SCFM out of the box, but with the upgraded impellor bearings, it can be spun a bit higher to the 2350 as my unit is set.

I would say that the area taken out of the hood is similar to the work I had to do on mine (only mine had to be cut deaper). Also, I had to notch the valve cover, but that may have been because I run the vc spacers due to my rocker set-up and wanting to retain factory rocker covers on the AFR 215CPs.

I will say that at just over 10 psi I was able to get to the 9.6s and later started just running in the 1/8th (kind of not allowed at the local NHRA 1/4 mile track any longer, due to lack of safety equipment). In the 1/8th I have run in the high 6.0s, but have never been able to break out of the 6s, as my 60' times are still limiting. However, you are running the direct inlet path like mine, so you should see higher boost like I have seen over the last year (no 1/8th or 1/4 mile trips at the increased boost levels). I have made lots of runs in the 20-23 psi range, but made one where it just went over 25 psi.

You will enjoy the head unit if it is even close to the D1R.

Aaron

Last edited by AKS Racing; May 3, 2007 at 10:14 PM.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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to my knowledge, the ysi is more comprable to the f1r. It should be one heck of a setup.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by qwiketz
to my knowledge, the ysi is more comprable to the f1r. It should be one heck of a setup.
The F1R and the D1R are rated at the same airflow, just the F1R has a different step-up ratio to attain that airflow. Also the F1R comes as reverse rotation (backwards mount) vs the D1R which is the traditional rotation.

If the YSI has airflow anywhere close to the D1R/F1R, it should be a very nice package.

BTW, Paul, what was the max boost seen in the old S trim? It will be interesting to know before and after.

Aaron
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Old May 4, 2007 | 12:28 AM
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Very nice indeed.... you definately filled up the engine bay... no room for a mouse.... sweet job...
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Old May 4, 2007 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by AKS Racing
The F1R and the D1R are rated at the same airflow, just the F1R has a different step-up ratio to attain that airflow. Also the F1R comes as reverse rotation (backwards mount) vs the D1R which is the traditional rotation.

If the YSI has airflow anywhere close to the D1R/F1R, it should be a very nice package.

BTW, Paul, what was the max boost seen in the old S trim? It will be interesting to know before and after.

Aaron
Aaron,

From what I know the YSI flows 1600cfm. Like qwiketz said, the YSI's main competitor is the F1R.

Max boost on the S trim was around 13psi. I mentioned in my other thread that my blower pulley was a 3.33" but I measured it today and it is a 3.25".
Greg at blowerworks thinks I will make probably 2 to 3 more psi of boost. I won't know for sure until everything is done and running.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 02:02 AM
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My barometer on blower hp is efi renegade that paul mentioned. My mustang was going to be an efi renegade style car before I ran out of money for a built rear, cage and all the safety gear. The fastest I've seen a d1r stang go (in non renegade trim) is 8.80's and 8.90's in renegade trim. I acutally owned one of these blowers for my mustang before I decided to just go with the t trim. The fastest I've seen a ysi car go is 8.60's in renegade trim. The f1r cars have gone 8.30's with cogs so I'm sure they'd be close comparision to the ysi cars if you had them both on 8 rib belts and .500 lift hydraulic rollers (nmra renegade trim).

Procharger and vortech rate cfm differntly, so it's more a matter of what a maxed out combo will do. That's how I compare the relative hp levels since cfm isn't a good measure.

Aaron, how fast were you trapping in the 1/8th when you were running 9.60's?

Last edited by qwiketz; May 4, 2007 at 01:24 PM.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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Should make for some major fun down the road. The new setup looks awsome.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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Paul, something you may want to consider doing for the longevity of the blower if you up the boost down the road is go to a bigger bypass valve or add a second one like Aaron did. There's really no downside to having too big of a valve but there are disadvantages to having too small of a valve. Just food for thought. I went with a procharger red but vortech also has a similar monster blowoff valve.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by qwiketz
Aaron, how fast were you trapping in the 1/8th when you were running 9.60's?
The car can run consistantly in the 142.5 - 144 range. If you get anywhere over 145, you can be garanteed that the 60' has gone away (in the range of 1.85 - 2.3+ sec; anybody seen what a 10.7 @ 149 with a 3.32 short time looks like ). I have seen it jump to 147.8, but that was on a 2.38 short time. So not too accurate.

Remeber, all of these examples were at the lower boost levels, and I have not run in the 1/4 since the switch to the higher boost. I have no doubt that it is making lots more power, but the challenge now is to get it to hook and run decent 1/8th mile numbers. It is pretty inconsistant in the 1/8th and highly dependent upon available traction. This will have to do until I decide whether I am going to put this combo in a fully caged, solid axle coupe.

What I am most surprised about is the ability to deliver the high boost numbers with the large heads (AFR215CPs), massive SR cam (248/254 @ 0.050, 0.670"+ lift) and the intake (Weiand Team G, 1206 FP). If anything, one would expect that people with smaller heads / cam / intake would be delivering considerably higher boost. Though I am at MIS at 6450RPM.

Aaron
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Old May 4, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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All I can say is "wow." Looks sweet. Will all that fit under a stock hood? Looks like it does.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by vinnies87
Very nice indeed.... you definately filled up the engine bay... no room for a mouse.... sweet job...
Which is why I'm waiting on the STS rear mounted turbo kit.

Sweet setup zelement!
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Old May 4, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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I have thought about going with a bigger BOV. I am not changing the blower pulley at this point so I will wait before I move to a bigger BOV.

The procharger one you have is nice! I would like to use one that will fit on the Greddy flange.

Aaron, You are still running a D44 right? I don't remember if you are 6 sp or auto?

The engine compartment is actually quite open in person. I know it looks like it is filled with stuff but it has more room under the hood then my stock GS. The battery has been moved, the AC is gone, stock ECM and all the wiring is gone, all smog equipment's gone, Cruise control's gone, and a buch of small things here and there.

It would really be cool if I can have another YSI sitting on the opposite side.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by zelement
I have thought about going with a bigger BOV. I am not changing the blower pulley at this point so I will wait before I move to a bigger BOV.

Aaron, You are still running a D44 right? I don't remember if you are 6 sp or auto?

The engine compartment is actually quite open in person. I know it looks like it is filled with stuff but it has more room under the hood then my stock GS. The battery has been moved, the AC is gone, stock ECM and all the wiring is gone, all smog equipment's gone, Cruise control's gone, and a buch of small things here and there.
I agree with the comment that the engine compartment is fairly open in person. Mine is the same way. I think you are giving up some of the flow by having the blower suck through that duct on the inlet side. All of the centrifugals are extremely sensitive to psi drop on the suction side. It would be interesting to see how much gain is had by removing the duct during a dyno session. Mine only gained 6WHP by pulling the filter, but mine has a 5" elbow and very large K&N.

I am running the ZF and the 3.45D44. I have actually been down into the low 1.5 sec 60' when I was an auto, but always had failures. Also twin b/o valves to keep everything together, you will know if you do not have enough, as it might hang the throttle blades open. I sure would think that you would see a lot more boost than what you have claimed above. What are the details on the heads / cam / (I can already see that you are running a MRII, 1204, 1205, 1206?) / TB, as this would be a strong contributor to boost level.

Do you think you are loosing boost to the discharge piping? What is the diameter of the blower discharge and what is the diameter of the piping to the TB? Here was mine as I was fabbing the duct.


Here is the combo once all was powder coated.


You can see the twin xxOH injection nozzles (the larger one on the backside just aft of the blower, near the throttle cables, and the smaller one on the front side about 6" after the first but still 8" from the TB). This positioning allows enough resonance time to let the xxOH cool the mixture prior to passing the IAT sensor (located at the 4 bbl flange just before the intake). This set-up seems to work ok, but I still toy with the isdea of A2W, as I see IATs still well over 200°F and never dipping below about 180° through a full pass. I do not understand how some of the turbo claims no higher than 110° with xxOH or A2A, as I never saw IAT values remotely close to those numbers. I hope you guys have beeter luck with the IATs and spark gaps.

Aaron

Last edited by AKS Racing; May 4, 2007 at 11:36 PM.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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Where is your IAT located? I can't really see in that pic? How far down stream from the injection and how far away from the TB?

My intake tube on the air filter side is 3.75" all the way to the filter.
The tube to the TB side is 3".

My TB is the Monoblade.

I think my injection nozzles might be too close to the TB. Because I get a puddling effect when the meth is on full spray. under WOT without meth, the AFR is at around 11.8 or so. Under full meth injection the AFR goes to close to 11.2 and it feels like fuel is puddling in the intake.
I am not running nearly as much boost as you so I don't have a problem with my Intake getting too hot. I don't think I've seen anything close to 200.

ARe you using DFI or FAST? How much more timing are you adding with the injection? Maybe I need to add more timing when using meth so the motor leans out a little? I haven't done it because I don't use the meth all the time, it is on a switch. When it gets too hot I will run it to cool down the temp. Are you running yours all the time? What if you run out?
My fear is that, I add more timing when using the meth but when I run out of it, I'll detonate the motor. What happens when you run out? do you stay out of high boost?
Are you running 8 or 10 rib? Any slip at that boost level?
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Old May 5, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by zelement
Where is your IAT located? I can't really see in that pic? How far down stream from the injection and how far away from the TB?
The IAT is located at the end of the elbow at a compound angle on the R side on the short side radius of that elbow. I would estimate that it is ~7" downstream of the TB. I will try to get a pic that clearly shows the location.

Originally Posted by zelement
My intake tube on the air filter side is 3.75" all the way to the filter. The tube to the TB side is 3". My TB is the Monoblade.
Does the inlet to the blower seem a bit small? What are the details on the filter? When I was struggling to get every psi that I could possibly get from the set-up (old design w/IC), I changed filters and picked up over 1 psi on back to back tests. The centrifugal superchargers are extremely sensitive to suction side pressure drop. Details on the cam and heads? I am still perplexed by the much lower boost levels.

Originally Posted by zelement
I think my injection nozzles might be too close to the TB. Because I get a puddling effect when the meth is on full spray. under WOT without meth, the AFR is at around 11.8 or so. Under full meth injection the AFR goes to close to 11.2 and it feels like fuel is puddling in the intake.
I think the only thing that would cause puddling is having the xxOH come on at too low a psi. It engages at the same point that it disengages, so when you slam the throttle blade shut, you see a nearly immediate drop in velocity and that will cause the xxOH droplets to fall out of suspension. For this reason, my xxOH is triggered at 5.5 psi and ramps all the way to 18 psi. Past 18 psi, it is full spray.

Originally Posted by zelement
I am not running nearly as much boost as you so I don't have a problem with my Intake getting too hot. I don't think I've seen anything close to 200.
The amount of IAT you are seeing is indicative of the amount of compression that is taking place. T at the blower discharge is a direct function of compressing the air (and consequently the amount of boost obtained). I would be interested to know the actual IATs you are seeing. Before I went to the xxOH injection, the Spearco IC would allow the temp to steadily build from ~110°F to ~240° at the end of one 1/4 mile pass (4 gears, 1320 ft).

Originally Posted by zelement
ARe you using DFI or FAST? How much more timing are you adding with the injection? Maybe I need to add more timing when using meth so the motor leans out a little? I haven't done it because I don't use the meth all the time, it is on a switch. When it gets too hot I will run it to cool down the temp. Are you running yours all the time? What if you run out? My fear is that, I add more timing when using the meth but when I run out of it, I'll detonate the motor. What happens when you run out? do you stay out of high boost?
FAST w/ wbO2 and 3 bar MAP. I run 22° advance at max boost, but think that I could add more advance. Even when running a few hard runs along with running on the streets, the most xxOH that was consumed was ~2/3 the ww reservoir. That was a day of hard playing. I am running a 55% H2O / 45% xxOH blend. I check the reservoir each time I go out to play. Fortunately, it doesn't inject until you see 5 psi and not 100% until 18 psi. It really is not that bad. Plus the pistons are always being steam cleaned.

Originally Posted by zelement
Are you running 8 or 10 rib? Any slip at that boost level?
Donb't you remember, I was the guy who tore up a D1R with a cog system. It is definitely hard on the head unit. Amazing as it may sound, I am running a six rib and getting the higher boost levels. And... no funky tensioner devices that are wasting all of the bearings in the other driven accesories. I have checked the blower and the trans is still nice and tight since moving to the 6 rib.

I hope all of these answers help a bit.
Aaron
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Old May 8, 2007 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zelement
Where is your IAT located? I can't really see in that pic? How far down stream from the injection and how far away from the TB?

My intake tube on the air filter side is 3.75" all the way to the filter.
The tube to the TB side is 3".
Paul,
I got the car out and shot some pics.

Here is a shot a bit back on the R side of the car. If you look close, you can see the IAT at the flange on the elbow, just above the fuel rail.


Closer pic, from the same angle. You can more clearly see the IAT.


Her is a shot of the 5" inlet to the D1R. I really think you should try disconnecting your inlet on the dyno and see how much WHP and boost you pick up. As stated prior, I only picked up 6WHP (less than 1%), which is not outside the variance of the dyno.


I hope this helps in getting your set-up "squared away".
Aaron
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Old May 11, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Aaron,

Thanks for the pics and your info. Sorry I haven't checked in for a few days, been really busy at work.

Do you think your high intake temp has anything to do with the IAT being so close to the engine? It looks like it would be getting a lot of heat from the manifold.

My cam is a 236/248 .57xI & .58XE on a 114LSA. I need to find the cam card to be sure on the lift numbers but it should be real close to those numbers.

My heads started as 195 competition heads that have been ported by Rev'd up kustoms here in san diego. They flow close to 300 on the intake and around 220 on the exhaust. I have all the numbers just need to dig them up.


YOu have to realize the setup ratio on the vortech is different compared to Procharger. That's why vortech uses much smaller blower pulley to make boost.

I am going to move the nozzle closer to the discharge tube off the blower to make sure the puddling effect goes away. I will play around with that and see if I activating the meth at a high psi level will help.

Does the rubber elbow where the air filter is connected to ever collapse under full boost?
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