Overheat / coolant everywhere!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,702
Likes: 254
From: Woodinville, WA
Overheat / coolant everywhere!
So I get into work today, and wasn't paying much attention to the gauges, but when I turn off my car I hear a bubbling sound. Uh oh.
I open up my hood and I can hear the coolant bubbling up top. Down at the resovoir there is coolant all over the engine bay plastic and the container. There is also coolant surrounding the inside of my rim and tire.
So much coolant got out it was dripping from the brush guard in front of my car, but I couldn't see from where! Temps were about 230 degrees. The resovoir was filled about to the brim with coolant.
It was operational last night!!
Is this maybe a waterpump issue?? I couldn't find any hoses leaking, and I think most of the leaked coolant came from out of the cap of the resovoir.
I open up my hood and I can hear the coolant bubbling up top. Down at the resovoir there is coolant all over the engine bay plastic and the container. There is also coolant surrounding the inside of my rim and tire.
So much coolant got out it was dripping from the brush guard in front of my car, but I couldn't see from where! Temps were about 230 degrees. The resovoir was filled about to the brim with coolant.
It was operational last night!!
Is this maybe a waterpump issue?? I couldn't find any hoses leaking, and I think most of the leaked coolant came from out of the cap of the resovoir.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
Could be alot of things. BTW, always best to post year, by your profile it's a 95? Not sure if the 95 had an opti, if it does I'd be worried about that too. Start checking hoses, debris in front of the radiator and or radiator and condensor, check your oil to be on the safe side! You need to isolate, or eliminate things like hoses, radiator cap ect. At least it didn't get to hot.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,694
Likes: 3
From: Less Talk, More WOT | Houston TX
So I get into work today, and wasn't paying much attention to the gauges, but when I turn off my car I hear a bubbling sound. Uh oh.
I open up my hood and I can hear the coolant bubbling up top. Down at the resovoir there is coolant all over the engine bay plastic and the container. There is also coolant surrounding the inside of my rim and tire.
So much coolant got out it was dripping from the brush guard in front of my car, but I couldn't see from where! Temps were about 230 degrees. The resovoir was filled about to the brim with coolant.
It was operational last night!!
Is this maybe a waterpump issue?? I couldn't find any hoses leaking, and I think most of the leaked coolant came from out of the cap of the resovoir.
I open up my hood and I can hear the coolant bubbling up top. Down at the resovoir there is coolant all over the engine bay plastic and the container. There is also coolant surrounding the inside of my rim and tire.
So much coolant got out it was dripping from the brush guard in front of my car, but I couldn't see from where! Temps were about 230 degrees. The resovoir was filled about to the brim with coolant.
It was operational last night!!
Is this maybe a waterpump issue?? I couldn't find any hoses leaking, and I think most of the leaked coolant came from out of the cap of the resovoir.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,702
Likes: 254
From: Woodinville, WA
sorry, yes it's a 95.
230 was conservative. it was probably closer to 240-245 degrees
If I drive it a bit at higher speeds the temp stays ok, but a little high. If I do ANY stop and go or slower speed my temps jump fast into the red (so to speak) zone and start climbing to 220-230
I went through the hoses, as best I could see they were all intact.
Isn't it odd that the resovoir was filled all the way to the brim? Is it overheating that would cause it to rise that high and possibly through the cap?
230 was conservative. it was probably closer to 240-245 degrees
If I drive it a bit at higher speeds the temp stays ok, but a little high. If I do ANY stop and go or slower speed my temps jump fast into the red (so to speak) zone and start climbing to 220-230
I went through the hoses, as best I could see they were all intact.
Isn't it odd that the resovoir was filled all the way to the brim? Is it overheating that would cause it to rise that high and possibly through the cap?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,694
Likes: 3
From: Less Talk, More WOT | Houston TX
Are your fans working? If your coolant begins to boil it will expand and overflow out the cap and into the reservoir, but a properly sealed system with the correct mixture of coolant and water should not boil at 230.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,702
Likes: 254
From: Woodinville, WA
My guess is the coolant has got issues then.
I had a "checkup" on my car a little while back where they told me the pH of my coolant was low and needed a flush/refill .
I didn't believe them at the time because I had JUST had it done about 3 months prior maybe I should look into that.
I had a "checkup" on my car a little while back where they told me the pH of my coolant was low and needed a flush/refill .
I didn't believe them at the time because I had JUST had it done about 3 months prior maybe I should look into that.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
If the temp gauge is anywhere near right, I can only think of two things. The first, is the already mentioned, depressurizing of the cooling system, which will bring the boiling point of the coolant down to the temp of the coolant. And the other is a blown head gasket. Cylinder pressure in the cooling system will force water out through the radiator cap and overflow the reservoir. If this were MY car, I would start with a very thorough flush of the cooling system. I would pull the radiator and clean out from in between the radiator and condenser, plus clean the fins of both heat exchangers. I would then fill the cooling system with water, (no need to waste money on coolant for a test) and check the operation of the fans, radiator cap, and thermostat. I would let it get warm and make sure everything is working. Also, make the usual checks for a blown head gasket. One way or another, somehow, the pressurization of your cooling system has been compromised.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,723
Likes: 11
From: Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
It sure sounds like nothing more than a failed radiator cap and some air in the cooling system. Your 95 requires a 17psi cap to keep the coolant from boiling. If the cap does not hold the pressure it releases coolant to the overflow reservoir and since it is not longer under pressure it quickly boils off. Next, since you have lost coolant and the ability to keep the system under the proper pressure you get air in and overheating. Replace the cap, refill the system, purge the air using the bleeder screw on the t-stat housing and hopeflully you are good to go.
NOTE--failure to use the bleeder screw WILL leave air in the system and it will quickly overheat again.
NOTE--failure to use the bleeder screw WILL leave air in the system and it will quickly overheat again.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Lots of good info and starting places so far. I would clean it all up, fill it up with water and get a pressure tester, pressure the system, and check for leaks at first. If no pressure tester is available, just run it up and watch the temp for 20 min or so and see what happens. If its OK, change cap if desired, drive for a day then fill with coolant.
If the car was good up to that day, the thermostat could have gone bad and is just partially opening. If you run the car and overheats, put a stat in it and run it again. I am assuming all fans are operating normal.
If that does not do it then you can get into the radiator maintenance and cleaning as described above.
If the car was good up to that day, the thermostat could have gone bad and is just partially opening. If you run the car and overheats, put a stat in it and run it again. I am assuming all fans are operating normal.
If that does not do it then you can get into the radiator maintenance and cleaning as described above.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 11,628
Likes: 1
From: Sherwood, Arkansas
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Do NOT let them touch it until you do some more diagnostics. Head gasket jobs can go $500 to $1800 depending upon how much money they think you have, multiplied by how niave you actually are. Now if you had said you had white smoke out the exhaust, milky looking oil, seepage at the head, or one of several other indicators it would be different. Right now it sounds more like the shop janitor is doing the diagnosis with his crystal ball and your money.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by aminnich
Do NOT let them touch it until you do some more diagnostics. Now if you had said you had white smoke out the exhaust, milky looking oil, seepage at the head, or one of several other indicators it would be different. Right now it sounds more like the shop janitor is doing the diagnosis with his crystal ball and your money.
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
If the temp gauge is anywhere near right, I can only think of two things. The first, is the already mentioned, depressurizing of the cooling system, which will bring the boiling point of the coolant down to the temp of the coolant. And the other is a blown head gasket. Cylinder pressure in the cooling system will force water out through the radiator cap and overflow the reservoir.
RACE ON!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
I am still thinking a simple $10 radiator cap, but maybe that would be too easy and too cheap?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by aminnich
Absolutely!! What I am saying is that further diagnostics should be done before tearing into it for the big $$ repair. I am not one to knock repair shops, heck I manage one, but the gut check response of telling him a head gasket reeks of greedy repair shop. What I am saying is pull it out of their shop and do the simple diagnostics as once they start pulling the head he and his money are committed.
I am still thinking a simple $10 radiator cap, but maybe that would be too easy and too cheap?
I am still thinking a simple $10 radiator cap, but maybe that would be too easy and too cheap?
RACE ON!!!