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Hey Guys,
Need some help. Need to do valve seals. While I've got the covers off would like to install RR's. Need somebody who's done it to an 87.
Need to know what to buy, etc.
Anybody done it to an 87
Since there is 20yrs on the OEM seals I'd replace them along with stiffer springs.
Though the '87 has different Al heads from my '88, I'd recommend:
-Comp Cam ProMagnum RRs, non self-aligning
-Comp Cams #981 springs
-a set of OEM upper & lower valve stem seals
-a set of new forged Keepers
-replace the stock guide plates with hardened ones
-replace stock push rods with hardened ones
-trim down the height of the drip tabs inside the VCs
-narrow the bolt towers inside the VCs
-repaint those ugly brown VCs....
87 has hard pushrods and plates. Definitely do the new spring and seals.
Don't think so.
My "87 had factory SA rockers and the factory "assembly" plate.
Thought all the roller cam engines (86L) went to SA rockers.
If not up for the cost of full rollers, the Comp magnums with the roller tip are a cheaper upgrade.
Replace yours with SA ones or do the pushrod / guide plate upgrade mentioned with non SA ones.
Don't think so.
My "87 had factory SA rockers and the factory "assembly" plate.
Thought all the roller cam engines (86L) went to SA rockers.
If not up for the cost of full rollers, the Comp magnums with the roller tip are a cheaper upgrade.
Replace yours with SA ones or do the pushrod / guide plate upgrade mentioned with non SA ones.
My 86 and 87 had non SA rockers. The 87 heads are currently on my Nova with full roller rockers.
Okay, my 87 / 128 heads alum, has non SA, hardened pushrods and guideplates.... See spankyellow post with link to the head discussion. Roji- i've not seen or heard of any 87 with 128 heads having stock SA, even the FSM says non SA
Hey Thanks everybody,
65Z01.
Since there is 20yrs on the OEM seals I'd replace them along with stiffer springs.
Though the '87 has different Al heads from my '88, I'd recommend:
-Comp Cam ProMagnum RRs, non self-aligning
-Comp Cams #981 springs
-a set of OEM upper & lower valve stem seals
-a set of new forged Keepers
-replace the stock guide plates with hardened ones
-replace stock push rods with hardened ones
-trim down the height of the drip tabs inside the VCs
-narrow the bolt towers inside the VCs
-repaint those ugly brown VCs....
Any reason not to go SA, hardened pr's, springs , forged keepers and dump the guide plates .
BTW I polished my VC's, they look great I gotta get a pic for you.
Anybody think those Salee VC's will fit.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Unless there is damage there is no reason you have to replace all those parts. Just seals, full roller rockers, and new springs is really all you need.
If you want to lighten AND reduce friction use quality aluminum full RRs.
You can get a set springs from GM Perf. Parts for a good price.
While u prying keepers just watch carefully, they are easy to loose, while i did replace valve seals, i lost one keeper and had to buy whole set not bad with 25 bucks but huh i had to drive 2 hrs to summit.
'87 heads had the hardened pushrods and guideplates. This means that you will need non-self aligning rockers. I have a set of 1.6 Comp roller tips (non-self aligning) if you choose to go that route. Plus you pick up a bit of lift while you are in there.
Aaron
Nobody's mentioned replacing the rocker arm studs. When installing full rollers, SA or not, if you install them on the factory rocker stud, you end up with only about 6 threads in the adjusting nut. While this is seldom an issue with OE camshafts because of low lift and slow ramp speed, on the bigger cammed motors they end up breaking the studs off at the top. Just not enough stud in the nut ( I know that dont sound right). Seen it a bunch of times. 1/2 inch longer studs. Just something to think about.
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