96 ABS Delete
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
96 ABS Delete
I'm building my 96 LT4 into a track car, and I recently decided I want to get rid of the ABS. Initially I wanted to keep the ABS, but recently the ABS stopped working (haven't had a chance to scan for codes), and I much prefer the way it drives. I ran 2 events with zero lockup problems. Corners that would make the ABS go nuts didn't cause any lockup issues at all. I was curious if anyone else had tried to eliminate their ABS. The easy way would be to bypass the ABS module that sits behind the driver, but the better way would be to re-route the front lines straight from the master cylinder to the front wheels (and remove all the unneeded tubing that went from the MC, to the ABS block, and then back to the front wheels).
I was curious what other had tried. A search for ABS and delete or removed came up with nothing.
I was curious what other had tried. A search for ABS and delete or removed came up with nothing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 8,950
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette LA
That's the right way to do it, and that's what I would do. Maybe the stock lines for an 84 or 85 would work, but I don't know.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
the abs and traction control are integrated as one unit.
Curious question - did you remove the CCM? If so, the ABS will stop working and throw codes.
all things being equal, with the abs/asr disabled (collectively called the EBCM - Electronic Brake Control Module), the brakes will work fine. No problems at all. I doubt a pre abs brake system would adapt. It might be easier to build it yourself, really. But I would physically leave it.
The next thing I would do is remove the abs/asr lights from the DIC.
Curious question - did you remove the CCM? If so, the ABS will stop working and throw codes.
all things being equal, with the abs/asr disabled (collectively called the EBCM - Electronic Brake Control Module), the brakes will work fine. No problems at all. I doubt a pre abs brake system would adapt. It might be easier to build it yourself, really. But I would physically leave it.
The next thing I would do is remove the abs/asr lights from the DIC.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
While they are integrated together, the ASR was easy to remove. I took out the ASR motor and changed to a single throttle cable, and the ABS continued to work fine. Taking out the traction control off and traction control warning bulbs made it look like nothing was wrong (except, of course, that the traction control button did nothing).
The CCM is stock and unmolested. Currently it is still running VATS as well as the power windows. If I could find a way to get rid of the CCM and keep things like the power windows working, I would. I may look into that once I get a tune for the cam and have VATS disabled in the PCM.
all things being equal, with the abs/asr disabled (collectively called the EBCM - Electronic Brake Control Module), the brakes will work fine. No problems at all. I doubt a pre abs brake system would adapt. It might be easier to build it yourself, really. But I would physically leave it.
Weight. The car is still too heavy to keep up with those pesky C5's, so I want to remove the ABS block if at all possible. If it isn't doing anything, no reason to keep it around, and then I can sell it and buy more go-fast parts!
As I said, the ASR bulb is already gone, and removing the ABS light should take all of about 2 minutes. In fact, I'm not sure exactly what the DIC does anymore...
all things being equal, with the abs/asr disabled (collectively called the EBCM - Electronic Brake Control Module), the brakes will work fine. No problems at all. I doubt a pre abs brake system would adapt. It might be easier to build it yourself, really. But I would physically leave it.
As I said, the ASR bulb is already gone, and removing the ABS light should take all of about 2 minutes. In fact, I'm not sure exactly what the DIC does anymore...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
Yep, along with all carpet and trim pieces in the interior, plus most of the dash, power antenna, heater core, evaporator, defroster, blower motor, etc, etc.
For some mostly recent pics of the car, check out http://www.mowhineracing.com
For some mostly recent pics of the car, check out http://www.mowhineracing.com
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 15
From: Detroit's West Side MI
Mojave, how far do you want to go with this?
I did a total interior tear out a few year back, so I can offer information on whatever you need.
As for the ABS, I've done what bogus suggested and just left the plumbing in there, behind the driver seat. There is some weight savings to be had, but I don't think it's worth mucking with the entire system and rerouting the lines. You may have more experience with routing brake lines, but I'm not wiling to risk it...it's too important of a system and is currently working fine (without ABS, of course).
I have removed ALL electronics from my car except the ECM. And technically the EBCTM, but it's not plugged in and the wiring harness is removed. I hardwired the fuel pump, electric water pump, fans, etc. onto their own circuits. I ran new analog guages and got rid of the factory cluster.
But this thread is about ABS so I've gone off topic...
I did a total interior tear out a few year back, so I can offer information on whatever you need.
As for the ABS, I've done what bogus suggested and just left the plumbing in there, behind the driver seat. There is some weight savings to be had, but I don't think it's worth mucking with the entire system and rerouting the lines. You may have more experience with routing brake lines, but I'm not wiling to risk it...it's too important of a system and is currently working fine (without ABS, of course).
I have removed ALL electronics from my car except the ECM. And technically the EBCTM, but it's not plugged in and the wiring harness is removed. I hardwired the fuel pump, electric water pump, fans, etc. onto their own circuits. I ran new analog guages and got rid of the factory cluster.
But this thread is about ABS so I've gone off topic...
Last edited by ScaryFast; May 11, 2007 at 10:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
Mojave, how far do you want to go with this?
I did a total interior tear out a few year back, so I can offer information on whatever you need.
As for the ABS, I've done what bogus suggested and just left the plumbing in there, behind the driver seat. There is some weight savings to be had, but I don't think it's worth mucking with the entire system and rerouting the lines. You may have more experience with routing brake lines, but I'm not wiling to risk it...it's too important of a system and is currently working fine.
I have removed ALL electronics from my car except the ECM. And technically the EBCTM, but it's not plugged in and the wiring harness is removed. I hardwired the fuel pump, electric water pump, fans, etc. onto their own circuits. I ran new analog guages and got rid of the factory cluster.
But this thread is about ABS so I've gone off topic...
I did a total interior tear out a few year back, so I can offer information on whatever you need.
As for the ABS, I've done what bogus suggested and just left the plumbing in there, behind the driver seat. There is some weight savings to be had, but I don't think it's worth mucking with the entire system and rerouting the lines. You may have more experience with routing brake lines, but I'm not wiling to risk it...it's too important of a system and is currently working fine.
I have removed ALL electronics from my car except the ECM. And technically the EBCTM, but it's not plugged in and the wiring harness is removed. I hardwired the fuel pump, electric water pump, fans, etc. onto their own circuits. I ran new analog guages and got rid of the factory cluster.
But this thread is about ABS so I've gone off topic...
If you had some pictures of how you bypassed the ABS block, that would be very useful. I may start there, and then work on removing the extra stuff later.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 15
From: Detroit's West Side MI
I just removed the controls and left the actual plumbing in that compartment. For a long time I was trying to get ABS working again, but couldn't so I quit. The brake fluid is still going through the ABS pump, just never being cycled by the motor.
Last edited by ScaryFast; May 11, 2007 at 11:13 AM.
