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The factory deck height on my LT4 measured .026 exactly on both sides. My plain is to take off .021 to give me .005 in the hole. Run a .039 thick head gasket. What is this going to do to my valve train since my rockers are not adjustable?
I plan on using an adjustable push rod to check the length but I didn't see any aftermarket custom length push rods for the OE roller motor.
This might be kind of far out there but I thought about drilling and tapping my rocker nuts then putting in a set screw to make them adjustable.
If you're spending all that money on engine work, why would you not buy new rocker arm studs and rockers?
Most of the major manufactures will custom make pushrods. Just gotta call them Summit or Jegs can also take care of the leg work for you after you tell them the length and brand you want.
Yes, I know. Thats a good point. I was thinking about the comp 1.6 self align rollers and new studs. I wish GM hadn't made the LT4 rockers so proprietary.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
You've really got two separate issues here. A different length pushrod may indeed be in order but that's not really related per se to the adjustability (or lack thereof) issue with the LT4. I don't know about the set screw set-up in the manner in which you're considering but I'd definitely recommend doing whatever's required to obtain the ablilty to properly adjust the rockers when modifying an LT4. I've not actually had the chance to look at a stock LT4 rocker set-up, but I wonder if the fulcrums couldn't be drilled to 7/16" and then some aftermarket studs and polylocks be utilized.
On the LT1 stroker I'm building I'm going with ARP studs, guide plates, non-self aligning RRs and hardened pushrods. I plan on having the same adjustability as I had or earlier SB engines.
I'm ditching all the self-aligning stuff. CompCams says that's the way to go too.
On the LT1 stroker I'm building I'm going with ARP studs, guide plates, non-self aligning RRs and hardened pushrods. I plan on having the same adjustability as I had or earlier SB engines.
I'm ditching all the self-aligning stuff. CompCams says that's the way to go too.
Jake
Good move as that’s the only way to go.
Also I would run the quench tighter than .044 if it doesn’t get your compression too high. Know Lingenfelter in his book recommends .043 for a street motor but I’m running a .037-038 quench and wish mine was a bit tighter even.
A few years ago by mistake I ran a quench of .029 and didn’t realize it until the car was torn down. Thought it was running a .039 gasket on a zero decked block and the gasket turned out to be .029. Hey, worked great. May just have been flat butt lucky, but I’d do it again in a heartbeat knowing what I know now. The guy whom ported my heads told me he wanted the piston so tight to the head that no carbon could form. He used to work for the Nickens Bro porting pro stock heads and doing pro stock motors so he may have a few tricks up his sleeve. The only problem is I didn’t push on how tight as it was a moot point with a non-decked block.
Screwed up not having the block decked trying to not let my wife know I was doing another rebuild. Sometimes ya got to do those things if ya know what I mean…. wanted to keep my gonads for at least one more year anyway.
It seems like I read somewhere that regular SBC guide plate will not line the rockers up over the valves correctly on LT1/4 heads. Have you put these on your heads yet?