Engine Build Help.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 837
Likes: 260
From: Omaha NE
Engine Build Help.
Ok I have decided to sell my motorcycle and start working on my dream one piece at a time. The goal the 200mph mile club. From what I have read from other forum member it takes at least 700 hp to start getting me even close. My question is I will have $5000 to start with for the motor. Yes I know it will take wayyy more than that to get me their. This motor is going to have to be build in stages. Such as starting with a good block and going from there. This is where I would like peoples advice of what would be the best platform to start from such as from an online company. Pleas no comments on saftey that issue is already taken care of rollcage etc and yes I know I can buy a new Z06 and it would get me really close it unfortunately is not an option. Than you for any and all insight. I have local engine builers I can ask but I fiigured the wealth of knowledge on this forum would give me a good baseline.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 837
Likes: 260
From: Omaha NE
Yes My 91 will be my base the car is the stock six speed. Currently mods are longtube headers and full catback. Pretty much I am starting from scratch. I have yet to decide if I will go carb or fuel injected.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
I've read where the new Z06 is supposed to be good for close to 199mph. It has 505hp and is lighter. Why would 200hp more be needed in a C4? Is it just to overcome the weight and aerodynamic differences or is the Z06 top speed of 199 incorrect? Good luck with the build.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
700HP and $5000 do not compute... especially staying N/A (not to mention streetable). Nice downpayment, but triple that figure and you'll be in the ballpark.
Try a Shafiroff 434 and go carbed if you are serious. Don't forget to upgrade the fuel system to support it.
Good luck!
Try a Shafiroff 434 and go carbed if you are serious. Don't forget to upgrade the fuel system to support it.
Good luck!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 5
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
I would look for a high revving crate motor with the most cubes you can stuff in a C4. TPI is worthless for this project, so you know the options. I would go carbs, but I'm kinda old school. The cam and valvetrain are also important. It probably won't be streetable.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 837
Likes: 260
From: Omaha NE
Yes I do know 5000 is peanuts for the project just looking for a starting point . I can have a local builder do the build instead of buying a fully assembled crate to save money. As I said this is a piece by piece project.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 5
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
I hope your local guy has lots of race experience. Golen has a 427 short block for 7 large.
Last edited by BADDUCK; May 21, 2007 at 04:42 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 1
From: Lake Ozark MO
You can probably do 200mph on less than 700hp. I believe the current Z06 can basically do it on about 530hp.
Focus on low ride height, no mirrors, narrower tires, etc. Drag is a real bitch at high speeds. Normally an exponential factor.
Focus on low ride height, no mirrors, narrower tires, etc. Drag is a real bitch at high speeds. Normally an exponential factor.
Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Underground, NC
Since you're going to need RPMs, I'd probably stay fairly conservative on the rotating combo. Build it stout of course but stay with the 3.75" stroke and either 5.7" or 5.85" rods at the most. Get the lightest of everything you can afford. Driveability isn't an issue, is it? That'd be asking a lot for your goals. If not you can go nuts with the heads and cam, just make sure you have the valvetrain to keep it all together. You'll want to push compression to some extent but it needn't be to an impractical level. Do maximize quench though above all else, it'll pay dividends. A suitable induction system whether carbed or injected will work. Build it to live at 8000 RPM but you shouldn't have to go quite that high. Yeah, you're going to spend some money.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 914
Likes: 1
From: Redding Ca
I have done engine build ups one piece at a time as finances allowed and all at once, as in crate motor. The latter is better. It is no easier to look at a half finished engine for months on end than it is to sit on a healthy, but short, bank account.
Our goals and ideas for the engine change with time, but the parts we buy do not. It is not unusual for someone to lose interest in a half finished project. Also, we tend to "cheap out" on some parts in an effort to get the thing done in stretching our dollars. Crate motors tend to be better balanced, and are a known commodity in terms of power and reliability. A single purchase is also usually cheaper than buying one part at a time. This can be comforting when building a dual purpose car. I recommend not starting the engine until you can take it all the way to completion.
I would look closely at the Shafiroff 595 HP Big Dog 434" at $9,000 or any of several Golen engines. Most towns of any size also have an engine builder or two who are terrific. Having said that, I bought a 406" crate engine from a shop in Missouri who is now out of business, but built a good engine. Hot rodding is a study in inadequate funds, patience and frustration. Good luck, its all good
Our goals and ideas for the engine change with time, but the parts we buy do not. It is not unusual for someone to lose interest in a half finished project. Also, we tend to "cheap out" on some parts in an effort to get the thing done in stretching our dollars. Crate motors tend to be better balanced, and are a known commodity in terms of power and reliability. A single purchase is also usually cheaper than buying one part at a time. This can be comforting when building a dual purpose car. I recommend not starting the engine until you can take it all the way to completion.
I would look closely at the Shafiroff 595 HP Big Dog 434" at $9,000 or any of several Golen engines. Most towns of any size also have an engine builder or two who are terrific. Having said that, I bought a 406" crate engine from a shop in Missouri who is now out of business, but built a good engine. Hot rodding is a study in inadequate funds, patience and frustration. Good luck,
its all good
Last edited by GeosFun; May 22, 2007 at 11:00 AM.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 557
Likes: 0
From: chiefland fl
what about the new GM block out that Reggie Jackson has in his 69 camaro? its a small block that can be bored out to a big block, the block is new and goes for about $2500.00 pretty cheap!! no substitute for CI's!!!!!!! LSX http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do...ticleId=117396
Last edited by billybonesmusic; May 22, 2007 at 11:07 AM. Reason: misspelled
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 837
Likes: 260
From: Omaha NE
Good point GeosFun I am somewhat impatient so yes having a half finished engining sitting in my garage would probably just iritate me. Does anyone know if Shafiroff engines come with a warrany? I noticed Bill Mitchell engines come with a 2 year warranty. Also the new LSX block looks very interesting does anyone know if this would fit in our vettes without major modification?