Best brake mods, suggest...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 2
Best brake mods, suggest...
Ok, it seems that a lot of the guys want to go faster.
I want to go the opposite side; slower!
I want more efficient braking.
I have read about stainless steel lines, bigger rotors, drilled or slotted rotors, brake air ducts, higher boiling point brake fluid, etc.
But, what about the master cylinder? Is there an after market part that makes braking more efficient, or better?
I have seen after market parts for almost everything but so far nothing related to the master cylinder. After all, this is where pressure will come from.
Lets hear some suggestions.
I want to go the opposite side; slower!
I want more efficient braking.
I have read about stainless steel lines, bigger rotors, drilled or slotted rotors, brake air ducts, higher boiling point brake fluid, etc.
But, what about the master cylinder? Is there an after market part that makes braking more efficient, or better?
I have seen after market parts for almost everything but so far nothing related to the master cylinder. After all, this is where pressure will come from.
Lets hear some suggestions.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24,460
Likes: 7
From: sw Ohio
If you want to stop quicker, you can drive slower
Seriously though, drilled and slotted rotors make for a great and simple upgrade. Of course you can go all out and get the Wilwood 6 piston brakes. Central Coaster has them on his '85.
Seriously though, drilled and slotted rotors make for a great and simple upgrade. Of course you can go all out and get the Wilwood 6 piston brakes. Central Coaster has them on his '85.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,963
Likes: 709
From: WI
You could try and get a custom M/C to fit, as far as I know none are made to fit. The Wildwood M/C for example is priced pretty decent but you may have to make custom brake lines as they wouldn't fit the stock locations. The only real gain I see in a different M/C would be one with a proportioning valve right on it, but you can add those in to the stock system to.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 0
From: RI
try the brake bias spring first. If you are not satisfied, install a set of stainless lines. If you are still not satisfied, then yes, larger diameter or multiple piston caliper setup will work. Drilled/slotted rotors only help with racing conditions or extreme braking.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
If I had the money, then I would go with the C5 upgrade but I dont race so it would really be pointless for a daily driver unless its for looks. I am going to replace all calipers with new stock ones, hawk brake pads, drilled/slotted rotors**for looks** and Stainless steel brakelines. Got a new master cylinder and brake booster so I should be good to once I get the rest in order. Ill just paint the calipers silver or black so they wont show up because they are not that attractive to me.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 4
From: Mt Laurel NJ
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
I would suggest changing the brake fluid, new rotors, S/S brake lines, and Hawk HPS pads. Also speedbleeders will make your work easier.
Do that, and then see were you are at. It made a big difference in my car.
Do that, and then see were you are at. It made a big difference in my car.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,723
Likes: 11
From: Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada
try the brake bias spring first. If you are not satisfied, install a set of stainless lines. If you are still not satisfied, then yes, larger diameter or multiple piston caliper setup will work. Drilled/slotted rotors only help with racing conditions or extreme braking.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 15
From: Detroit's West Side MI
Here we go again...
Kinkajou, to properly answer your question we'll need a little more information. Primarily, why do you think you need better braking, and secondarily, is your car a daily driver or a track car?
There is no reason to replace the master cylinder. There are a bunch of us here with C4's that race competively and successfully with stock parts. So...
If you want initial stopping distance with brakes at ambient temperature on the street (i.e. better braking feel) then change your pads to something more aggressive (like the Hawk HPS suggested above) and put on the stainless steel lines. Your initial bite will be quicker and more controllable.
If you need real, repeatable stopping (on the track), then you'll need to upgrade your calipers to the C5 kit or something aftermarket.
Slotted and drilled rotors will not get you anything.
Kinkajou, to properly answer your question we'll need a little more information. Primarily, why do you think you need better braking, and secondarily, is your car a daily driver or a track car?
There is no reason to replace the master cylinder. There are a bunch of us here with C4's that race competively and successfully with stock parts. So...
If you want initial stopping distance with brakes at ambient temperature on the street (i.e. better braking feel) then change your pads to something more aggressive (like the Hawk HPS suggested above) and put on the stainless steel lines. Your initial bite will be quicker and more controllable.
If you need real, repeatable stopping (on the track), then you'll need to upgrade your calipers to the C5 kit or something aftermarket.
Slotted and drilled rotors will not get you anything.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 5
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
J55 front brakes are another option. High quality "street" pads usually work best unless you race. Unless you really need the rotors and lines replaced don't do it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 2
The car is not a daily driver but I will use it a lot for road trips and it is beggining to see some track days.
Problem I had is that sometimes I will push the brake pedal and it will go all the way down, if I push again a couple of times , everything will be ok again.
Brake flud was all changed, new brake pads, rotors are good, I even changed the master cyclinder for a used but in good condition unit.
I really hate to feel that the brakes will not be there when I need them the most.
So I thought that I would try to make the car as reliable as possible.
So far I have heard great ideas, thanks guys.
Please keep those ideas and advice coming!
Problem I had is that sometimes I will push the brake pedal and it will go all the way down, if I push again a couple of times , everything will be ok again.
Brake flud was all changed, new brake pads, rotors are good, I even changed the master cyclinder for a used but in good condition unit.
I really hate to feel that the brakes will not be there when I need them the most.
So I thought that I would try to make the car as reliable as possible.
So far I have heard great ideas, thanks guys.
Please keep those ideas and advice coming!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
I upgraded my J55's to Earl's SS Lines, Hawk HPS pads, Slotted/CD rotors, and speed bleeders. The Hawk pads made the biggest difference in stopping. Next time I will try the C5 upgrade to see what it does. It sounds like you have other issues though that need to be fixed first. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 2
Aardwolf "You already tried a different M/C so I would bet there is still air in the system. It's possible you damaged/spread the calipers to."
Could you please explain a little bit on this? I have not heard of this before. How can a caliper be damaged or spread?
How can I inspect the caliper for this kind of damage?
Could you please explain a little bit on this? I have not heard of this before. How can a caliper be damaged or spread?
How can I inspect the caliper for this kind of damage?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Aardwolf "You already tried a different M/C so I would bet there is still air in the system. It's possible you damaged/spread the calipers to."
Could you please explain a little bit on this? I have not heard of this before. How can a caliper be damaged or spread?
How can I inspect the caliper for this kind of damage?
Could you please explain a little bit on this? I have not heard of this before. How can a caliper be damaged or spread?
How can I inspect the caliper for this kind of damage?
Not sure if thats what you meant by spreading but I was curious if this is true or not?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,963
Likes: 709
From: WI
You can use wood if you like. Sometimes I just use my wrench on the pads as a lever to push the pistons back enough so new pads fit.
I remember you had a track event, that is why I suggested caliper damage. You will have to take the pads out to check the piston area. Look for the piston to have kinked sideways in the hole, check the bracket and caliper to be even. They should be like an H, straight and not bent. Do you know what I mean? Here are a few threads talking about damage:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread Post #18 here, U shape or H like I mention.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread Post #20 on measuring.
When I work on my brakes, I use a micrometer to measure the rotors wear. The min. thickness of the rotor is stamped the back of mine. I use a piece of metal on the rotor face to avoid the edge of the rotor that is less worn. I also measure the caliper and bracket. When I put new calipers, rotors, and pads on, I measure them new and write this down. Then after an event you can see how much wear there is.
I hope this helps!
I remember you had a track event, that is why I suggested caliper damage. You will have to take the pads out to check the piston area. Look for the piston to have kinked sideways in the hole, check the bracket and caliper to be even. They should be like an H, straight and not bent. Do you know what I mean? Here are a few threads talking about damage:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread Post #18 here, U shape or H like I mention.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...caliper+spread Post #20 on measuring.
When I work on my brakes, I use a micrometer to measure the rotors wear. The min. thickness of the rotor is stamped the back of mine. I use a piece of metal on the rotor face to avoid the edge of the rotor that is less worn. I also measure the caliper and bracket. When I put new calipers, rotors, and pads on, I measure them new and write this down. Then after an event you can see how much wear there is.
I hope this helps!