U-Joint replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
U-Joint replacement
I printed out a fabulous half-shaft U-Joint replacement thread here. Almost makes it look easy.
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how difficult it is to replace the drive shaft U-Joints? I can have the U-Joints replaced at a local shop ($15 for each U-Joint, $15 for each removal/install, $40 to balance each shaft) or I could buy a set of greaseable "heavy duty" U-Joints off eBay for $95, remove/install myself and have the shafts balanced for $200. In either scenario, I'd have to remove the shafts. Therein lies thge problem; I have zero experience in this area and am not much of a mechanic. I could always bring it to a shop and pay $800 to have the job done, but that's more $ than I'd like to spend.
Alternatively, if anyone wants to help/teach me and a buddy how to do it, send me a pm. I'm willing to pay to learn!
Thanks
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how difficult it is to replace the drive shaft U-Joints? I can have the U-Joints replaced at a local shop ($15 for each U-Joint, $15 for each removal/install, $40 to balance each shaft) or I could buy a set of greaseable "heavy duty" U-Joints off eBay for $95, remove/install myself and have the shafts balanced for $200. In either scenario, I'd have to remove the shafts. Therein lies thge problem; I have zero experience in this area and am not much of a mechanic. I could always bring it to a shop and pay $800 to have the job done, but that's more $ than I'd like to spend.
Alternatively, if anyone wants to help/teach me and a buddy how to do it, send me a pm. I'm willing to pay to learn!
Thanks
Last edited by davemack; May 25, 2007 at 07:58 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
If you have access to a hydraulic press and some assorted size sockets, you can remove and replace them yourself.
If not, you can rent, borrow or buy a u-joint press. It clamps in a bench vise and allows you to press them appart with a ratchet or air ratchet.
I always mark the you in relation to the shaft so that everthing goes back in the same position.
Unless there is an odd problem, there is no need to balance the shafts because you replace the universals.
To remove them, pop off the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Set the press up so that you push on the cap and support the other side with a socket larger than the o/d of the opposite cap.
Repeat this as needed to remove them completely.
Gently clean each bore that a u-joint cap sits with a green scrubby and some wd-40. You want the hole as clean and burr free as possible without removing any metal. The cap must be a press fit.
I wish I had some pics or a link to help out.
Maybe a forum member that is local will help out
If not, you can rent, borrow or buy a u-joint press. It clamps in a bench vise and allows you to press them appart with a ratchet or air ratchet.
I always mark the you in relation to the shaft so that everthing goes back in the same position.
Unless there is an odd problem, there is no need to balance the shafts because you replace the universals.
To remove them, pop off the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Set the press up so that you push on the cap and support the other side with a socket larger than the o/d of the opposite cap.
Repeat this as needed to remove them completely.
Gently clean each bore that a u-joint cap sits with a green scrubby and some wd-40. You want the hole as clean and burr free as possible without removing any metal. The cap must be a press fit.
I wish I had some pics or a link to help out.
Maybe a forum member that is local will help out
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
"I wish I had some pics or a link to help out."
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
scorpujoint.html
Was all answered in your other SAME question yesterday,
25 responses.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
scorpujoint.html
Was all answered in your other SAME question yesterday,
25 responses.
Last edited by rodj; May 25, 2007 at 09:07 AM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 12
From: Savannah GA
Before you just pull the driveshaft I'd make sure the u-joints were bad. My 200K mile joints looked like new when I replaced them when other stuff was apart. The driveshaft moves very little so the u-joints don't get a lot of wear. Nothing like the half-shafts.
Driveshaft isn't easy to get out either. you have to kind of pry it out from between the c-beam and exhaust pipes. The shop manual says take the c-beam loose and drop the pipes.
JS
Driveshaft isn't easy to get out either. you have to kind of pry it out from between the c-beam and exhaust pipes. The shop manual says take the c-beam loose and drop the pipes.
JS
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 9
From: VA
I printed out a fabulous half-shaft U-Joint replacement thread here. Almost makes it look easy.
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how difficult it is to replace the drive shaft U-Joints? I can have the U-Joints replaced at a local shop ($15 for each U-Joint, $15 for each removal/install, $40 to balance each shaft) or I could buy a set of greaseable "heavy duty" U-Joints off eBay for $95, remove/install myself and have the shafts balanced for $200. In either scenario, I'd have to remove the shafts. Therein lies thge problem; I have zero experience in this area and am not much of a mechanic. I could always bring it to a shop and pay $800 to have the job done, but that's more $ than I'd like to spend.
Alternatively, if anyone wants to help/teach me and a buddy how to do it, send me a pm. I'm willing to pay to learn!
Thanks
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how difficult it is to replace the drive shaft U-Joints? I can have the U-Joints replaced at a local shop ($15 for each U-Joint, $15 for each removal/install, $40 to balance each shaft) or I could buy a set of greaseable "heavy duty" U-Joints off eBay for $95, remove/install myself and have the shafts balanced for $200. In either scenario, I'd have to remove the shafts. Therein lies thge problem; I have zero experience in this area and am not much of a mechanic. I could always bring it to a shop and pay $800 to have the job done, but that's more $ than I'd like to spend.
Alternatively, if anyone wants to help/teach me and a buddy how to do it, send me a pm. I'm willing to pay to learn!
Thanks
You can rent a bearing press from one of the big auto chains for free, which makes the U-joint replacement fairly trivial, although they can be stuck after many years of service.
The U-joints themselves are about $10-15, so $95 for a "kit" is a ripoff. $30 parts and labor to r/r just the joints is not bad. No need to balance the shafts unless you have a problem.
Given that you are "not much of a mechanic" I'd lean towards take the shafts out yourself and pay the $90 to have the joints done at the shop.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
"I wish I had some pics or a link to help out."
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
scorpujoint.html
Was all answered in your other SAME question yesterday,
25 responses.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/
scorpujoint.html
Was all answered in your other SAME question yesterday,
25 responses.
Don't know what you mean when you say "was all answered in your SAME question yesterday, 25 responses." I did post yesterday, but had no replies, hence the ttt in the #2 spot.
The link you supplied is the "fabulous tutorial" I referred to in my original post. It covers half-shafts, not the drive shaft. But, I appreciate you trying to help.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
Before you just pull the driveshaft I'd make sure the u-joints were bad. My 200K mile joints looked like new when I replaced them when other stuff was apart. The driveshaft moves very little so the u-joints don't get a lot of wear. Nothing like the half-shafts.
Driveshaft isn't easy to get out either. you have to kind of pry it out from between the c-beam and exhaust pipes. The shop manual says take the c-beam loose and drop the pipes.
JS
Driveshaft isn't easy to get out either. you have to kind of pry it out from between the c-beam and exhaust pipes. The shop manual says take the c-beam loose and drop the pipes.
JS
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Stockbridge GA
The half shafts are a breeze. Just make sure you have some good socket extensions. They make life sooo much easier.
Don't waist your money on rebalancing. There is no reason to do that.
As for the drive shaft u-joints.....I would not touch them till they scream. Unless you are like me and just want to do it because you are bored.
Don't waist your money on rebalancing. There is no reason to do that.
As for the drive shaft u-joints.....I would not touch them till they scream. Unless you are like me and just want to do it because you are bored.
Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Underground, NC
And a "tight" joint is not a guarantee that they are good, either. Unless you have the shafts out and can move the joints through their full range of motion, you can't really know if they're starting to get tight spots in them. This often happens before looseness can be determined with them bolted in place. If the miles are getting up there on your car, just put replacing all u-joints on your agenda. It's just one more step toward reliable, trouble-free service. Make sure that you or whomever changes them realizes how much more easily the aluminum shaft yokes can be distorted or otherwise damaged if not handled properly while R & R the joints. They're much easier to screw up than steel parts.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
U-Joints
Thanks, Notorius. Good advice. Camino, I'm not the kind of guy who'd replace my U-joints because I'm bored. I wish I was, though. I'd probably be at least half-decent with a wrench.
It really seems like the driveshaft U-joint is the problem, not the halfshaft U's. The grinding, clicking sound is most defintely coming from the front and is in the drivetrain. It feels/sounds like it's right below the shifter. It only happens when the car is moving, but will happen under acceleration, stable speed or deceleration. Also seems to be triggered by left turns, or so it seems. It drives fine, shifts fine, etc., but when it's doing the grind thing, it sounds like the tranny's going to fall off or something.
Open to advice. May be another case of having to invest considerable $ just to see if the drivshaft U's are bad... Diagnostics usually cost as much and are sometimes harder than the repair. That seems goofy, but it is what it is.
It really seems like the driveshaft U-joint is the problem, not the halfshaft U's. The grinding, clicking sound is most defintely coming from the front and is in the drivetrain. It feels/sounds like it's right below the shifter. It only happens when the car is moving, but will happen under acceleration, stable speed or deceleration. Also seems to be triggered by left turns, or so it seems. It drives fine, shifts fine, etc., but when it's doing the grind thing, it sounds like the tranny's going to fall off or something.
Open to advice. May be another case of having to invest considerable $ just to see if the drivshaft U's are bad... Diagnostics usually cost as much and are sometimes harder than the repair. That seems goofy, but it is what it is.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,077
Likes: 4
From: Scarborough ONTARIO
Davemack, iam sure i have similer problem as u describe, except clicking noise comes from rear driver side, i took the rear end out (well my mechanic), yep the driver side u-joint is toasted, look at the pic, have not assembled back as i need spindle nut (just picked up this morning) and will be finish install on tuesday.
5-799X u joints fit very nice looking pretty too.
Click pic's to enlarge.
I suggest u jack up rear wheels and try to shake half shafts and driveshaft with hand, if possible crank the car and shift in drive and than u can watch where noise is coming from. Good luck. I will give feedback on tuesday or wed.
5-799X u joints fit very nice looking pretty too.
Click pic's to enlarge.
I suggest u jack up rear wheels and try to shake half shafts and driveshaft with hand, if possible crank the car and shift in drive and than u can watch where noise is coming from. Good luck. I will give feedback on tuesday or wed.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
Likes: 1
From: MA
Davemack, iam sure i have similer problem as u describe, except clicking noise comes from rear driver side, i took the rear end out (well my mechanic), yep the driver side u-joint is toasted, look at the pic, have not assembled back as i need spindle nut (just picked up this morning) and will be finish install on tuesday.
5-799X u joints fit very nice looking pretty too.
Click pic's to enlarge.
I suggest u jack up rear wheels and try to shake half shafts and driveshaft with hand, if possible crank the car and shift in drive and than u can watch where noise is coming from. Good luck. I will give feedback on tuesday or wed.
5-799X u joints fit very nice looking pretty too.
Click pic's to enlarge.
I suggest u jack up rear wheels and try to shake half shafts and driveshaft with hand, if possible crank the car and shift in drive and than u can watch where noise is coming from. Good luck. I will give feedback on tuesday or wed.
Looks like Mine did...
Im doing mine right now check out my video that the sound of a bad U-joint
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1714889
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
U-Joints?
Sami, Repzard, thanks for the pics & video. That sound clip is especially helpful; it sounds pretty similar to mine. I can't say for sure if my noise is coming from the halfshaft or driveshaft, but it sure sounds like it's coming primarily from the front of the driveshaft.
I'll be putting the car on a hoist this Thursday for an exhaust upgrade (LT-4 exhaust going onto my 85 - YEAH!!). That'll give me a good opportunity to rotate the shafts and try to trace the noise. Vader86's post on doing the halfshafts is the best how-to I've seen, so if that's my problem, I'd say I'm lucky. It sounds like the drive shaft U-joints are less simple to replace. I might have to pay to have that done, but still a heck of a lot better than a clutch, bearing or tranny problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'm way past due for a lucky break.
I'll be putting the car on a hoist this Thursday for an exhaust upgrade (LT-4 exhaust going onto my 85 - YEAH!!). That'll give me a good opportunity to rotate the shafts and try to trace the noise. Vader86's post on doing the halfshafts is the best how-to I've seen, so if that's my problem, I'd say I'm lucky. It sounds like the drive shaft U-joints are less simple to replace. I might have to pay to have that done, but still a heck of a lot better than a clutch, bearing or tranny problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'm way past due for a lucky break.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
Likes: 1
From: MA
Sami, Repzard, thanks for the pics & video. That sound clip is especially helpful; it sounds pretty similar to mine. I can't say for sure if my noise is coming from the halfshaft or driveshaft, but it sure sounds like it's coming primarily from the front of the driveshaft.
I'll be putting the car on a hoist this Thursday for an exhaust upgrade (LT-4 exhaust going onto my 85 - YEAH!!). That'll give me a good opportunity to rotate the shafts and try to trace the noise. Vader86's post on doing the halfshafts is the best how-to I've seen, so if that's my problem, I'd say I'm lucky. It sounds like the drive shaft U-joints are less simple to replace. I might have to pay to have that done, but still a heck of a lot better than a clutch, bearing or tranny problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'm way past due for a lucky break.
I'll be putting the car on a hoist this Thursday for an exhaust upgrade (LT-4 exhaust going onto my 85 - YEAH!!). That'll give me a good opportunity to rotate the shafts and try to trace the noise. Vader86's post on doing the halfshafts is the best how-to I've seen, so if that's my problem, I'd say I'm lucky. It sounds like the drive shaft U-joints are less simple to replace. I might have to pay to have that done, but still a heck of a lot better than a clutch, bearing or tranny problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'm way past due for a lucky break.
You are welcome.
Hope you find your problem.
I heard the drive shaft U-Joints aren't that bad , only thing that makes it harder is you have to remove the exhaust out of the way.
Well heres the cap that was making the clicking noise.
As you can see it is wasted.
Good Luck davemack
Repzard
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 1
From: anacortes washington
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,077
Likes: 4
From: Scarborough ONTARIO
Davemack: look at the sec pic, that was the only u-joint in driver side was making noise but i chaned all of em what the heck, from outside u cant even tell its broken, but once we took all a part, than we able to see that sucker. so thats i said jack both rear wheels at same time, if u take to a mechanic and ket him put it on lift, than u shake both half shafts and driveshaft, if it has a play u sure found ur problem. At the same time check wheel bearings play too. Good luck for ur problem man, hope u win.