I replacing my brake lines and ordering some line from summit. My question is where can i get the actuall piece that screws into the master cyl. I know ill have the flare the end of the line, but i need the 2 nuts that go over the line and connect it to the cyl. Thanks.

 

Hey JOJO dont know if you ordered your lines yet but you may want to check out inlinetube.com .

http://www.inlinetube.com/

I ordered brake lines from them for my F-body when I had it and they are already prebent and flaired for you.
And they also may have the part your looking for.

Hope that helps you out

Ps... I hope your project is going good for you so far.


Repzard

 

So you need the flare nuts then? Are you buying a roll of steel tubing and forming and flaring your own? Anyway, any good parts store should have or be able to get the correct flare nuts, or adapters if you want to adapt standard sized flare nuts to the M/C.

 

Are you suggesting that he can switch from the relatively difficult-to-obtain
metric thread ISO Bubble Flare fittings that are used on C4 brake lines
and use common-as-dirt traditional imperial thread double flare fittings?

If so, I'd propose that you do it to your car first and then let us know
how it turns out.

.

 

I hope that is not what he is suggesting. A double flared line and your MC are not compatable and will not mate properly, period. It will leak, as the Bubble flare will give you the correct concave "mushroom" fitting, while the Double flare will give you a convex shape which won't work ! You can order an ISO Bubble flare kit off the internet. You'll just have a couple of days to wait for delivery.....

 

Your '88 master cylinder is like my '89 in that it has a smaller
nut on the front port and a larger fitting on the rear port.

You could try going to a GM dealer and ordering the following
hydraulic fittings. They are for 3/16 ('5mm') tubing.

Front p/n #14076114 M10 x 1 (takes 12mm metric flare wrench) GM LIST: $4.17
Rear: p/n #11516404 M12 x 1 (takes 14mm metric flare wrench) GM LIST: $4.25

However, you may find that the M10 x 1 fitting is no longer available.

The fitting on the left below is a double-flare and is the wrong one


You may be able to get the M10 & M12 both from Inline as suggested
above. Failing that, GM probably has the M12 and you may be able to
get the M10 x 1 from a FORD dealer. Failing that, examine a 'European Style'
ready-made section from an auto parts store to see whether its fittings
look like the fitting on the right



Be aware that the correct ISO/Bubble flare tool is required for the
tubing. Practice making flares on several scrap pieces of brake tubing
before attempting to flare the OEM tubing on the car.

These two threads have a wealth of brake line repair information

Frustrated beyond belief

New Brake booster/MC and ISO bubble flare finished!

I notice MikeC4 mentions his source for the M10 x 1 in
the second thread.

Some key remarks by MikeC4 in his thread

• Do not forget to put on the new flare nut before you flare your brake line!
• I bought 3 feet of 3/16" brake tube to practice on. I made about 5 practice
  Bubble flares until I felt comfortable enough that I could do it correctly
  on the real brake line.
• When making a flare, it is recommended to put small amount of brake fluid
  on the tip of the brake line for a "cleaner" flare. This helps reduce the
  friction between the flare fitting and brake line as you are turning the crank!
• Best to have 2 people on this job, 1 to hold the flare clamp, and the other to turn the
  crank. Bubble flares require much more rotational torque than SAE Double flares.
  (And there isn't the luxury of mounting the die or flare clamp in a vise
  when working in the engine compartment.)
• Do your best to get your flare correct the first time, as there is not
  enough straight pipe left to do another flare if you mess up the first.

And in case it was missed above

- Do not forget to put on the new flare nut before you flare your brake line!

.

 

WOW, great info guys, Inlinetube doesnt have lines or fitting for an 88 it seems. I guess ill have to try to GM stealership.

 

Is there a particular reason you are replacing your brake lines? These steel lines will usually last the life of the car as long as they have not been exposed to external contaminents for a long period of time. If the main reason is just to replace the MC flare nuts, I think you would be better off just cutting off the old bubble flares, replacing the flare nuts, and create new bubble flare using the proper ISO bubble flare tool.

 

That WOULD be a good idea, but you probably didnt know my brake lines look like this



Im sure youve read my ProjectC4 thread so you know the fire story...
Well im going to do some shopping around tommorow and try to find these pieces and maybe see if autozone or whatever rents the bubble flare kit.

 

O and what size are the lines? im bout to order a roll of the turbing and need to know the size, also what size are the fuel lines, bout to get some braided ones and also need the size. thanks

 

No I was talking about if the nuts on his replacement lines were too small as is sometimes the case, that adapters can be had to take them up a size of two. I was not entirely clear from his post exactly what he was asking and trying to cover different possibilities based on that.

 

No help with the size? Im think about getting something along these lines, let me know if this is a good choice. I know ill have to bend and flare it, but that would take the fun out of it (or am i just crazy?)

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294859343

 

If you mean the size of the lines then this was discussed in the link
provided above. Frustrated beyond belief
3/16" Bundy double wall tubing for use as brake line will be relatively
easy to purchase in bulk. I predict finding 5mm tubing will be a bit
more of a challenge.

I am not optimistic that 5mm in bulk will be available at the chain
auto parts stores, but you can try. My vote would be to try dealers
or other sources for european parts like BMW and so on after checking
with GM and FORD dealers.

Given the extent of the visible damage to the engine compartment,
along with the expense & learning curve of sourcing & working with
metric brake tools, fittings and tubing, maybe buying a complete
set of ready-made brake lines is of interest?

Classic Tube offers what they describe as a complete set for an
'88 C4 under p/n #CV1028. Steel OEM lines are shown at $299.
Stainless lines are shown at $339.

.


.

 

yes i do like the sound of a complete kit, but id like to see pictures of it which they dont have on the website. I guess ill need to call them up and chat with them.

 

You might also contact member 350ws6 for a follow-up opinion. He
bought a set a year ago and although he reported having to wait
a lengthy period of time for the lines to arrive, he seemed to be very
pleased with the end result.

Finally found a source for brake lines!

.

 

Ive sent him a PM, do you know if the lines from classic tube are all prebent with all fittings? If i order them from classic tube i hope i dont have to wait 3 months!

 

No, I do not know that they are bent and flared from personal experience,
but I would expect them to be.

Due diligence is called for here on your part.

Two considerations that come to mind are that:

1. for shipping purposes, the lines will very likely have extra bends added
   to make the packaging more compact. You will need to remove these
   bends prior to installation. Classic has instructions in their FAQ section.
   .
2. I recall tube runs on other cars where the lines were installed at the
   factory prior to the build-up of other chassis/body components. In
   those cases, replacement looked like significant disassembly would be
   required to restore the lines to OEM-like condition.
   
   Maybe the C4 isn't like this. Maybe Classic Tube anticipates assembly
   issues for complete cars by adding extra unions in the line?

.

 

Maybe the C4 isn't like this. Maybe Classic Tube anticipates assembly
issues for complete cars by adding extra unions in the line?




yea i was thinking this myself. I'll probably call them soon because i would really like to get this project on the road in less than 3 months and thats how long he said it took him to get it, soo well see.

Question, looking at the pictures, could i cut the lines a few feet back and run new line to the master cyl. the only damaged part is the first 1-2 feet. If so, how do i make the connection in the old and new line?

 

My vote is yes, the brake lines can be trimmed back well beyond the
fire-damaged sections and replacements pieces spliced in.

In such a case, it is my opinion that it is important to recreate the
OEM pigtail strain-relief coils at the terminus of the lines just before
the tube ends. The simplest way to achieve this would seem to be to
purchase good sections of tube from another car. Alternatively, the
coils could be recreated with some effort and some bulk tube.

As for how to make the connection. I have posted a link to the
'Frustrated beyond belief' thread earlier in this thread. One answer to
your question lies within that thread - complete with a photo, part
number and source.

.

 

Slalom4me, you have been a great deal of help thus far, ill check out that link and check my options, and get back to you about what im going to do.

"recreate the
OEM pigtail strain-relief coils at the terminus of the lines just before
the tube ends."

I really dont know what this means, if you could expand a little?