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Thanks for sharing. Where did you get your speed bleeders? When you mention "authentic", that indicates that there may be some "fakies" out there?? I hate bleeding brakes, and if speed bleeders makes this process easier and less time consuming, then I am ready to try something new!!
Thanks for sharing. Where did you get your speed bleeders? When you mention "authentic", that indicates that there may be some "fakies" out there?? I hate bleeding brakes, and if speed bleeders makes this process easier and less time consuming, then I am ready to try something new!!
I got mine on ebay from this guy, he mailed them as soon as he had the order, I got them 2 days later. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...mZ270122583620
Yeah, their are knock offs everywhere but here is the info from the Speedbleader web site. Autozone has similar parts for $10 a pair but they did not not our size. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
I got mine on ebay from this guy, he mailed them as soon as he had the order, I got them 2 days later. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...mZ270122583620
Yeah, their are knock offs everywhere but here is the info from the Speedbleader web site. Autozone has similar parts for $10 a pair but they did not not our size. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
How do they work compared to the old pump the brake method??
Can you explain Id like to know so I can get a set of 4 myself if it makes things easier.
First start at th passenger side brake and loosen the SB @ 3/4 turn, then put a tube onto the end of bleeder and the otehr end of the rube into a can or jar, ,,...pump 5,6,7, whatever timer until your brake fluid becomes clear, snug the bleeder to tight
go to the driver rear and repeat, go to the passenger front and repeat, then driver and repeat,
Thats pretty sweet, cant tell ya how many times i've had to get someone to pump the brakes for me and even then sometimes cant get all the air out. I wonder if they will offer a group discount, cause i'd buy a couple sets if that be the case.
First start at th passenger side brake and loosen the SB @ 3/4 turn, then put a tube onto the end of bleeder and the otehr end of the rube into a can or jar, ,,...pump 5,6,7, whatever timer until your brake fluid becomes clear, snug the bleeder to tight
go to the driver rear and repeat, go to the passenger front and repeat, then driver and repeat,
done
I am a little confused behind the "mechanics" of how the SB's work?
1) When you loosen the SB 3/4 of a turn, how does this allow the spring/bearing to operate? (I do understand how the ball bearing retracts to block any air from returning into the caliper)
2) When the the SB is snugged down after bleeding process finished, what keeps the spring/bearing from releasing fluid to the outside world when the brakes are applied?
First start at th passenger side brake and loosen the SB @ 3/4 turn, then put a tube onto the end of bleeder and the otehr end of the rube into a can or jar, ,,...pump 5,6,7, whatever timer until your brake fluid becomes clear, snug the bleeder to tight
go to the driver rear and repeat, go to the passenger front and repeat, then driver and repeat,
Another for this product! I just replaced my calipers and installed a set of speed-bleeders and have to wonder why anyone would do without? These things are worth it.
I am a little confused behind the "mechanics" of how the SB's work?
1) When you loosen the SB 3/4 of a turn, how does this allow the spring/bearing to operate? (I do understand how the ball bearing retracts to block any air from returning into the caliper)
2) When the the SB is snugged down after bleeding process finished, what keeps the spring/bearing from releasing fluid to the outside world when the brakes are applied?
Sorry, I am just a confused idiot here......
Look at the animation above, when you pump the brakes,,, the fluid puses past the spring as the spring retracts, ,,,, and then it seats preveting aitr from entering the line,,, keep pumping until you have clear fluid , then you tigghten the bleeder and the angled tip seats in the fitting
Another for this product! I just replaced my calipers and installed a set of speed-bleeders and have to wonder why anyone would do without? These things are worth it.
Look at the animation above, when you pump the brakes,,, the fluid puses past the spring as the spring retracts, ,,,, and then it seats preveting aitr from entering the line,,, keep pumping until you have clear fluid , then you tigghten the bleeder and the angled tip seats in the fitting
"the angled tip seats in the fitting" !! Now I get it! Thanks !
Another for this product! I just replaced my calipers and installed a set of speed-bleeders and have to wonder why anyone would do without? These things are worth it.
Another vote for authentic speed bleeders. I originally went with the "speed bleeders" that you can get at autozone, napa, etc. They didn't seal as well. So I spent the money on the real things and all is well. Check 'em out: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Another vote for authentic speed bleeders. I originally went with the "speed bleeders" that you can get at autozone, napa, etc. They didn't seal as well. So I spent the money on the real things and all is well. Check 'em out: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Cool post LD...I bet those are a godsend!I need to get some for my other cars...never got around to using them on my own cars but have helped a friend install his and bleed them out.Product worked as it should!
Btw guys/gals,if you think some air may be getting past the threads,put some wheel bearing grease around the bleeder before doing your work.It does help keep the air from getting in or out past the threads,unless you have some really loose threads in there.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Try 10mm x 1.0
Be sure to use some thread sealer or teflon tape. Otherwise air will get sucked in past the threads when you let off the pedal, and the bubbles will never cease.
The thread sealer is needed ONLY for bleeding. It is not necessary when you tighten the bleeders back down. If anything, it'll do more harm than good at that point.