U Joint/Tie rods ect.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
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From: North Carolina
U Joint/Tie rods ect.
Whats the chance these will go out. How much do you think it would cost to have each of these done. Saw another thread on the tie rods but didnt want to jack his thread. Thanks.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
Likes: 1
From: MA
Well NC KId if you talking just the the axle U-joints I got a quote around 400 for just them at 3 hours a side.
And I did it myself with wife helping me
she loves to work on cars
And its not a bad job to do if you know how to turn a wrench.
I went with a recommendation from another forum member to get Neapco U-joints where spicers are hard to get now or days with the coating made for aluminum axles.
If you do a search you will find part # not sure off the top of my head what it is.
Now drive shaft U-Joints I didnt do yet so I cant tell you what it would cost but like I said If you can turn a wrench it not to bad, you just have to drop exhaust to get to drive shaft.
Now Tie rods I havent had to do mine yet but its not a hard job .
Just keep track of how many turns you took the old one off and you can get it close to the alignment specs you had when you started.
But I would have the alignment checked
But if I was going to guess how much it would cost to have all of it done by mechanic Id say 1000 - 1500 easy.
Now see im not so bad, am I???
Now wheres my sorry
And I did it myself with wife helping me
she loves to work on carsAnd its not a bad job to do if you know how to turn a wrench.
I went with a recommendation from another forum member to get Neapco U-joints where spicers are hard to get now or days with the coating made for aluminum axles.
If you do a search you will find part # not sure off the top of my head what it is.
Now drive shaft U-Joints I didnt do yet so I cant tell you what it would cost but like I said If you can turn a wrench it not to bad, you just have to drop exhaust to get to drive shaft.
Now Tie rods I havent had to do mine yet but its not a hard job .
Just keep track of how many turns you took the old one off and you can get it close to the alignment specs you had when you started.
But I would have the alignment checked
But if I was going to guess how much it would cost to have all of it done by mechanic Id say 1000 - 1500 easy.
Now see im not so bad, am I???
Now wheres my sorry
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Well NC KId if you talking just the the axle U-joints I got a quote around 400 for just them at 3 hours a side.
And I did it myself with wife helping meshe loves to work on cars
And its not a bad job to do if you know how to turn a wrench.
I went with a recommendation from another forum member to get Neapco U-joints where spicers are hard to get now or days with the coating made for aluminum axles.
If you do a search you will find part # not sure off the top of my head what it is.
Now drive shaft U-Joints I didnt do yet so I cant tell you what it would cost but like I said If you can turn a wrench it not to bad, you just have to drop exhaust to get to drive shaft.
Now Tie rods I havent had to do mine yet but its not a hard job .
Just keep track of how many turns you took the old one off and you can get it close to the alignment specs you had when you started.
But I would have the alignment checked
But if I was going to guess how much it would cost to have all of it done by mechanic Id say 1000 - 1500 easy.
Now see im not so bad, am I???
Now wheres my sorry
And I did it myself with wife helping me
she loves to work on carsAnd its not a bad job to do if you know how to turn a wrench.
I went with a recommendation from another forum member to get Neapco U-joints where spicers are hard to get now or days with the coating made for aluminum axles.
If you do a search you will find part # not sure off the top of my head what it is.
Now drive shaft U-Joints I didnt do yet so I cant tell you what it would cost but like I said If you can turn a wrench it not to bad, you just have to drop exhaust to get to drive shaft.
Now Tie rods I havent had to do mine yet but its not a hard job .
Just keep track of how many turns you took the old one off and you can get it close to the alignment specs you had when you started.
But I would have the alignment checked
But if I was going to guess how much it would cost to have all of it done by mechanic Id say 1000 - 1500 easy.
Now see im not so bad, am I???
Now wheres my sorry
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
I just got 4 Neapco u joints for the half shafts of my 94 Z (part # 0799) for $74 delivered. I was told that spicer is now made in Mexico??? and that's assuming you can find them.
Replacing them isn't a bad job at all. The tie rods? ...just pop them loose off the knuckle, loosen the jam nut, mark their location on the shaft and spin them off. I'll be darned if I'd pay the $85/hr for some one else do what I can do. So get a Helms and dig in.
Replacing them isn't a bad job at all. The tie rods? ...just pop them loose off the knuckle, loosen the jam nut, mark their location on the shaft and spin them off. I'll be darned if I'd pay the $85/hr for some one else do what I can do. So get a Helms and dig in.
Last edited by ittlfly; Jun 2, 2007 at 08:37 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
I just got 4 Neapco u joints for the half shafts of my 94 Z (part # 0799) for $74 delivered. I was told that spicer is now made in Mexico??? and that's assuming you can find them.
Replacing them isn't a bad job at all. The tie rods? ...just pop them loose off the knuckle, loosen the jam nut, mark their location on the shaft and spin them off. I'll be darned if I'd pay the $85/hr for some one else do what I can do. So get a Helms and dig in.
Replacing them isn't a bad job at all. The tie rods? ...just pop them loose off the knuckle, loosen the jam nut, mark their location on the shaft and spin them off. I'll be darned if I'd pay the $85/hr for some one else do what I can do. So get a Helms and dig in.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 59,243
Likes: 0
From: Driving a hybrid in Hipsterville
Tie rod ends are a piece of cake, get Moogs from Rock Auto. The u-joints aren't that bad, I helped VetteUSA do one side on his LT1 and it took us a couple of hours. He said the Vette specialty place quoted him $400/side for u-joints.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by ittlfly
I just got 4 Neapco u joints for the half shafts of my 94 Z (part # 0799) for $74 delivered.
RACE ON!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 1
From: OR
Funny question. In time, chances are 100% all of it wear out. It's a 20 year old car already. As others have stated, all those things are nuts and bolts type repairs. You could have some outside costs to have a shop press in some bushings or for wheel alignment, but that's about it besides the parts. Get a catalog from mid america, corvette central, whatever. Several different options for all those common wear parts are in there.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
Likes: 1
From: MA
Yes the ones I bought from Neapco are coated.
Heres a Picture so you can see the coating on the Caps.
Not sure of the part # off the top of my head but it is on Neapco website in a PDF.
If I can dig up the part# number I will be glad to post it for you NC KID if you go this rout
Ps I just looked at my reciept and the Part# is 2-0799
I got them at Fleet Pride at $16.34 a piece - 4 of them cost $75.31 with tax
The "part #0799" are not coated for aluminum.
Good Luck
Last edited by Repzard; Jun 2, 2007 at 02:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Hi CFI_EFI
Yes the ones I bought from Neapco are coated.
Heres a Picture so you can see the coating on the Caps.
Not sure of the part # off the top of my head but it is on Neapco website in a PDF.
If I can dig up the part# number I will be glad to post it for you NC KID if you go this rout
Yes the ones I bought from Neapco are coated.
Heres a Picture so you can see the coating on the Caps.
Not sure of the part # off the top of my head but it is on Neapco website in a PDF.
If I can dig up the part# number I will be glad to post it for you NC KID if you go this rout
Thanks Repezard. FYI, you spelled CFI-EFI **CFI_EFI** Everyone complains about my english so I figured Id forwarn you to fix yours so you wont get jumped on.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
See Mr. Mojo. Me and Repezard are friends.
No more fighting between us.
One more thing to the forum. Off topic I know but I didn't want to start a new thread and I couldn't find what I was looking for by searching. Remember when I asked about the brakelines. I meant to ask about the "Midamerica Stainless Steel Brake Hoses". Would these be better than the stock rubber ones? It says that it makes your pedal feel firmer.. I would think that it would be safer if a rock hit the rubber could damage it, but if it was S.S. it would be less damaged. Thanks!
No more fighting between us. One more thing to the forum. Off topic I know but I didn't want to start a new thread and I couldn't find what I was looking for by searching. Remember when I asked about the brakelines. I meant to ask about the "Midamerica Stainless Steel Brake Hoses". Would these be better than the stock rubber ones? It says that it makes your pedal feel firmer.. I would think that it would be safer if a rock hit the rubber could damage it, but if it was S.S. it would be less damaged. Thanks!
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
Likes: 1
From: MA
It could really cause a lot of damage under there if U-Joint went"BOOM".
It could send it through the floor of the car I believe and really mess up other things along the way.
Mine were to the point of clicking and vibrating so it had to be done quickly.
Heres a Video so you can hear how bad they were
So if they're making any noise I wouldn't wait to long or drive the car, theres a lot of torque at those axles.
Repzard
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
It could really cause a lot of damage under there if U-Joint went"BOOM".
It could send it through the floor of the car I believe and really mess up other things along the way.
Mine were to the point of clicking and vibrating so it had to be done quickly.
Heres a Video so you can hear how bad they were
So if they're making any noise I wouldn't wait to long or drive the car, theres a lot of torque at those axles.
Repzard
It could send it through the floor of the car I believe and really mess up other things along the way.
Mine were to the point of clicking and vibrating so it had to be done quickly.
Heres a Video so you can hear how bad they were
So if they're making any noise I wouldn't wait to long or drive the car, theres a lot of torque at those axles.
Repzard
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
Likes: 1
From: MA
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Hell, you got me wondering so I went out and looked at them. The complete # is 2-0799 (like mentioned above)...sorry for the confusion.
Last edited by ittlfly; Jun 3, 2007 at 08:48 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
The reason I brought it up, was that I posted a chart from Spicer a week or two ago that showed the Spicer 5-799X as a 1350 joint for steel shafts and that the 5-800X is the same joint, coated, for aluminum shafts Often, will fit parts, carry a part number that is similar to or a deviation of the part they are knocking off.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,953
Likes: 706
From: WI
There is no need to waste money on new brake lines if yours are OK. Does the car stop fine? Inspect the lines, any leaks, bulges? They should swell slightly when someone presses the brake. If you do change them, it will also cost you brake fluid and a line wrench. Maybe it would be better to ask how to check if the "U Joint/Tie rods ect." are still in good shape.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
There is no need to waste money on new brake lines if yours are OK. Does the car stop fine? Inspect the lines, any leaks, bulges? They should swell slightly when someone presses the brake. If you do change them, it will also cost you brake fluid and a line wrench. Maybe it would be better to ask how to check if the "U Joint/Tie rods ect." are still in good shape.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 9
Has anyone found a website or mail-order outfit that you can order the Neapco Universal Joints from? Ordering and driving locally is a pain in the ..., I like things easy.
Hear is the Neapco catalog link for their best coated U-joints for use with aluminum shafts:
http://www.neapco.com/pdf/Performanc...ed-9901155.pdf
Hear is the Neapco catalog link for their best coated U-joints for use with aluminum shafts:
http://www.neapco.com/pdf/Performanc...ed-9901155.pdf