C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Roll Cage

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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 09:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by C4forlife
The same question was bouncing around in my mind as well about the floor mounting requirements versus the chassis kick up right behind the seats. Does anybody happen to have a close up pic of how the main hoop welds if its done on the frame kickup?
I can show you a C5. This is one we did a couple years ago. This link should work. Flip through the pictures theres a close up. The one we just did we'll do something different with. Probably post close ups of that if it comes out nice.
http://hpracecraft.com/stevesvette/
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 11:26 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
I can show you a C5. This is one we did a couple years ago. This link should work. Flip through the pictures theres a close up. The one we just did we'll do something different with. Probably post close ups of that if it comes out nice.
http://hpracecraft.com/stevesvette/
So how much does a unit cost? I know it depends on the options but I would have to get it shipped to me.
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 11:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by RacePro Engineering
Morpheus,

Autopower Safety Equipment on the west coast has been producing real cages for road racing for 30 years. For the C4 they produce a weld-in version and a bolt-in, less than $ 800, and the fit is correct. Call 619-297-3300 and speak with Don.

Good luck,
Ed LoPresti
Do they have a website I can look at? What is better the bolt in or the weld in? I would imagine the bolt in can be done at home easier, but I rather it be the strongest method and not end up causing something to rust down the line (drilling holes).
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 11:28 PM
  #24  
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Same?

http://www.autopowerindustries.com/
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 09:28 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MorpheusGPR
So how much does a unit cost? I know it depends on the options but I would have to get it shipped to me.
I dont really know. I've never built one as a kit. We bend em and put em in. I may duplicate this one (C5) and try to make a jig for it. I can bend the hoops up no problem, the calculations are saved to a file.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 11:39 AM
  #26  
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Whats the biggest difference in the Moly vs DOM? I saw DOM listed and it looks like its about the same price as the Moly which I figure they are referring to Chrome Moly which should be lighter and stronger correct?
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 12:53 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MorpheusGPR
Whats the biggest difference in the Moly vs DOM? I saw DOM listed and it looks like its about the same price as the Moly which I figure they are referring to Chrome Moly which should be lighter and stronger correct?
Chrome Moly is a stronger material, so they can make the tubing thinner. Thinner wall, that is. So, the fact that its thinner makes the same length/diameter lighter.
But, the difference in weight for something like a 6 or 8 point roll bar is pretty insignificant. And a few years back, the price difference between the 2 was substantial. now, the price of the raw material has made the price of DOM (drawn over mandrel) damn near the same as moly.
DOM you're allowed to MIG weld.
Moly you have to TIG weld. We tig DOM stuff too. It just looks a heckofalot better.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 02:48 PM
  #28  
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Default Questions answered . . .

Morpheus,

Answering your questions about the bolt-in variety of cage versus the weld-in.

Many will argue that the weld-in is safer, and the bolt-in is more convenient. The bolt-in types can be installed with LESS welding, and perhaps LESS cutting of the interior than the weld-in types. This is usually interesting to someone wanting to "try" the track car thing. This may also be of value or anyone who plans on removing the cage before selling the car.

The weld-in types are a real commitment - not easy to change your mind, not easy to remove. The big reward of the weld-in variety for the dedicated track car is CHASSIS RIGIDITY. By their nature, road-going Corvettes are pretty flexible in the frame department. Stiffening the suspension helps on the track, but one can not fully utilize high-rate springs, stiff stabilizer bars, and custom valved shocks if each corner is acting independently. A fully welded in cage helps tie everything together.

Never mind the web site - phone Don at the number I gave you. And take a good look at the fine custom work these other gentlemen are producing.

Ed LoPresti
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 08:03 PM
  #29  
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What sort of motorsports have rules that let you get by with those roll cages that only add structure behind the driver?
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 11:24 PM
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Louisville,

First of all, sometimes these forums use terms which are not technically correct, and frequently that creates confusion.

Technically, roll-over safety structures are divided into 2 general types - called roll bars, and roll cages.

The type whose structure attaches to the vehicle frame behind and/or on a parallel plane with the driver seat are "roll bars"; and these are primarily two dimensional - height and width. If you think about this, surely thousands of such applications come to mind - AC Cobras, many SCCA Production classes, formula cars, sports prototypes.

The sort which attach to the vehicle frame on both sides, AND behind, AND in front of the driver, forming a "square" over the cockpit, are "roll cages", and are common is sedans, GT, and touring cars.

Due to the obvious safety advantages of having a roll structure "around" the driver, many of the newer purpose built, open-top racers use a compromise structure, where the standard roll bar is enhanced by structural members starting near the top of the roll bar, and extending forward and downward. If done right these provide good protection with minimal aero penalty.

Ed
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