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I did some looking on yahoo and some corvette forum threads came up but they did not have much on where to buy a good competition cage for the c4. I am looking for chasis stiffening and something that is legal for high speed road course eventually running in high speed rallies (Targa Newfoundland is the top goal).
I liked the systems from wolfcraft but they only carry items for the C5
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
There's a couple of threads over in the racing section.
I/O sport makes a bolt-in cage.
Be aware that road racing sanctions, like the SCCA require more robust cages than drag racing cages. Something about other cars landing on top of you in a corner.
I bought a 8 point from S&W www.swracecars.com and it was under 300 bucks and not too bad to install. As mentioned above make sure that you get the type that you need for the type of racing that you are going to do. I only installed the 4 points for now and going to add the 2 front bars next winter after i get them modified to run door panels.
That bar doesnt fit very tight to the car. We've done some for both c4 and c5s. I like them to fit much tighter to the car. We are just wrapping up a c5 now. Thread in the c5 section. Heres a couple pics. You can move the seat damn near all the way back. I'm about 6'1" and change, and there's plenty of room. In addition, we can bend the cross bar, to get full travel of the seat, so as not to give up any leg room. We bend these ourselves. No kit out there fits this good.
Autopower Safety Equipment on the west coast has been producing real cages for road racing for 30 years. For the C4 they produce a weld-in version and a bolt-in, less than $ 800, and the fit is correct. Call 619-297-3300 and speak with Don.
That bar doesnt fit very tight to the car. We've done some for both c4 and c5s. I like them to fit much tighter to the car. We are just wrapping up a c5 now. Thread in the c5 section. Heres a couple pics. You can move the seat damn near all the way back. I'm about 6'1" and change, and there's plenty of room. In addition, we can bend the cross bar, to get full travel of the seat, so as not to give up any leg room. We bend these ourselves. No kit out there fits this good.
I agree that a custom cage can fit tighter than a kit, that is why it is a "custom built cage". A custom cage usually comes with a custom price to match, however if you are willing to build one that snugs the interior for the same money that I have in the kit, I will be more than glad to have it cut out and bring you the car.
The cage was installed per the instructions that came with it and fit as tight as it is going to with the interior still in the car. As you can see this ISNT a full blown racecar, just a weekend auto-X car and street car that is a demo for my business. I did have the bar put in by a profesional welder to ensure that IF it were to get belly up that the bar would not be more of a danger than without anything.
If I ever decide to build a track only purpose car I will look you up for a cage. For now the 300 dollar kit works fine for what I need it to do.
I am using the Forza seats and if I mount them on the floor I can barelly see over the dash. Looks like the old lady on the where's the beef comercial driving
Hey, question... alot of these roll cages just add structure behind the driver...and that's great and all because it still allows the car to have that "convertible" feel when the top comes off... but what happens if you roll over and the front part of the car is what touches down? It seems like a straight line from the front tip of the car to the top of the roll bar would intersect with the driver's head, especially if they were sitting forward.
Sorry man. Didnt mean to offend. And yes, it does come with a "custom" price....
OH NO was not offended, just comparing apples to oranges. One of those situations where you get what you pay for. I paid the least, and it fit accordingly. Pay good money and you get a good install. I was just showing the poor guys solution to the rollbar
I will need some tuning done when I do the LT1 intake switch on the L98. This is where I will have to pay the good money at a shop like yourself and it will be worth every dime.
OH NO was not offended, just comparing apples to oranges. One of those situations where you get what you pay for. I paid the least, and it fit accordingly. Pay good money and you get a good install. I was just showing the poor guys solution to the rollbar
I will need some tuning done when I do the LT1 intake switch on the L98. This is where I will have to pay the good money at a shop like yourself and it will be worth every dime.
OK great. didnt want to pizz anyone off. And the reason for me posting, other than to show off our most recent, was to show the fit and form of a custom, in comparison to a "kit".
And as a foot note, and not doggin anybody's stuff, the SW kits fit terrible, regardless of what vehicle you buy them for.
We are doing a tube chassis car. It has 2x3 frame rails. The back half kit was made by SW. We see quite a few of them (SW back half kits)
The frame rails are crinkled, the cross member hangs too low, etc. We have to cut the cross member out and replace with a round tube, about 4 inches higher in the car.
Anyways, sorry for the hijack. Glad I didnt PO anyone.
The same question was bouncing around in my mind as well about the floor mounting requirements versus the chassis kick up right behind the seats. Does anybody happen to have a close up pic of how the main hoop welds if its done on the frame kickup?