minor problem with Azatto chip
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minor problem with Azatto chip
Jesse (or anyone else that may know what the problem is)...I hope you can help me clear this up (PM went unanswered)
I got a chip burned and, overall, I am satisfied. Nice smooth idle + no codes = happy camper. I am having a problem with the start up. When cold, she starts right up as she should. When she is warm, she starts up and then falls on her face. Sometimes she stalls, sometimes she doesn't. Once recovered, she idles nice and runs strong. It is embarassing when I talk about this great motor I built and then it starts like a beater.
I searched the forum and found a post that suggests the throttle blades are not letting enough air in. I turned mine up and it starts the same way.....fires up, falls on her face, then revs at 1300 rpm. I don't think it's the throttle blades.
Jesse - or anyone else for that matter - any thoughts??
I got a chip burned and, overall, I am satisfied. Nice smooth idle + no codes = happy camper. I am having a problem with the start up. When cold, she starts right up as she should. When she is warm, she starts up and then falls on her face. Sometimes she stalls, sometimes she doesn't. Once recovered, she idles nice and runs strong. It is embarassing when I talk about this great motor I built and then it starts like a beater.
I searched the forum and found a post that suggests the throttle blades are not letting enough air in. I turned mine up and it starts the same way.....fires up, falls on her face, then revs at 1300 rpm. I don't think it's the throttle blades.
Jesse - or anyone else for that matter - any thoughts??
#2
Le Mans Master
I know for a fact that Jesse will respond to this when he sees it, he's a busy guy. I'm no expert here, far from it, but I don't think the chip has anything to do with your problem. I also have a chip done by Jesse and am tickled to death with it. My car does exactly the opposite of yours. Once in while it will stumble or die on a cold start up but it doesn't do it enough to go looking for the reason. Hot starts are fine.
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I'm sure he'll respond too...and I know he's busy. Just trying to identify or eliminate the problem if it is not the chip. Pretty sure it is though. The car didn't do it at all before the chip was burned....did it immidiately after and since.
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no...I didn't touch the TPS. Just the torx adjustment for the butterflies. Does the TPS need to be adjusted as well???
And....don't we all live busy lives? I know I do. So for those of you that keep repeating how busy he is....trust me, I know. I am not being impatient...just wondering who, besides Jesse, may be able to explain what's going on with it. Hence, the post in the regular forum.
My engine has been starting like an 87 CHEvette for the past week and it is embarassing.
And....don't we all live busy lives? I know I do. So for those of you that keep repeating how busy he is....trust me, I know. I am not being impatient...just wondering who, besides Jesse, may be able to explain what's going on with it. Hence, the post in the regular forum.
My engine has been starting like an 87 CHEvette for the past week and it is embarassing.
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
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ODIVETTE would you let us know when he gets back to you and you've figured it out please? I had the same problem and logs showed the BLMs very rich down low. Good luck
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Cabo - I hope the answer presents itself on this thread....from what I've read, the TPS sensor has to be adjusted according to voltage? Can someone explain that process to me (in laymans terms please)?
If it is not that (which, again, I don't know that it is due to the fact that it didn't do it before the burn and it doesn't do it with an '89 chip in it), than maybe Jesse can shed some light on it for all of us.
I PM'd him on June 3...and, as you probably have read, he is busy. I just wish that I knew how busy he is/was before I spent the $260
If it is not that (which, again, I don't know that it is due to the fact that it didn't do it before the burn and it doesn't do it with an '89 chip in it), than maybe Jesse can shed some light on it for all of us.
I PM'd him on June 3...and, as you probably have read, he is busy. I just wish that I knew how busy he is/was before I spent the $260
#14
Le Mans Master
Cabo - I hope the answer presents itself on this thread....from what I've read, the TPS sensor has to be adjusted according to voltage? Can someone explain that process to me (in laymans terms please)?
If it is not that (which, again, I don't know that it is due to the fact that it didn't do it before the burn and it doesn't do it with an '89 chip in it), than maybe Jesse can shed some light on it for all of us.
I PM'd him on June 3...and, as you probably have read, he is busy. I just wish that I knew how busy he is/was before I spent the $260
If it is not that (which, again, I don't know that it is due to the fact that it didn't do it before the burn and it doesn't do it with an '89 chip in it), than maybe Jesse can shed some light on it for all of us.
I PM'd him on June 3...and, as you probably have read, he is busy. I just wish that I knew how busy he is/was before I spent the $260
My next question was going to be if you had a stock chip to put back in. Since the stock chip doesn't create the problem then I can see your concern. Did you email Jesse direct or just through the forum?
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Odi - it sounds like you need to start from scratch with setting the min idle screw, I think there is a tech tip on Batee or you can search the achieves here, you need to park the IAC first then unplug it then set the idle screw, then set the TPS to .54 and reconnect the IAC.
I cant find my link for the tech tip but you have to jumper 2 pins on the aldl to park the IAC
I cant find my link for the tech tip but you have to jumper 2 pins on the aldl to park the IAC
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Maybe my tone is wrong - I am not being impatient here. I just want to rule out any other possibilities...and leave Jesse to his business. I figured if he saw this, he may chime in. Or maybe someone else could solve the problem and I could go about my merry way. My way is pretty darn merry!
I will call him if the TPS adj doesn't solve the problem.
I will do some more searching. Before I do....how in the heck to I know what voltage the TPS is putting out? A volt meter (I assume)? Where do I read from?
I will call him if the TPS adj doesn't solve the problem.
I will do some more searching. Before I do....how in the heck to I know what voltage the TPS is putting out? A volt meter (I assume)? Where do I read from?
#17
Le Mans Master
Since you did move the throttle blades you will have to reset the min. air idle even if there is a problem with the chip.
Take a paperclip or any small piece of wire about the same size, locate your diagnostic plug which is just forward of where your right knee is while sitting in the car. Place one end of the wire in the A terminal of the plug and the other end in terminal B. Turn the key to on, your fans should start running. Allow the IAC at least 30 seconds to fully seat then turn the key off and remove the wire. Disconnect the tan/black wire that is for timing advance, it is right alongside the master cylinder. Start the engine and set the idle at 50-100 rpm UNDER whatever idle is programmed into the chip, (this is Jesse's proven method and it does work on modded engines) so if your chip is set for an 800 idle, set the actual idle at 700-750. Once you get the idle set then you can turn the key off, reconnect the IAC then set the TPS. Disconnect the TPS and run a jumper wire from the top and the second terminal on the TPS to the connector. These jumpers should be bared in the middle so you can connect a voltmeter to them. Once everything is hooked up turn on the key and set the TPS to .54 volts. This should take care of getting the TPS back where it belongs in relation to the the throttle blades.
Take a paperclip or any small piece of wire about the same size, locate your diagnostic plug which is just forward of where your right knee is while sitting in the car. Place one end of the wire in the A terminal of the plug and the other end in terminal B. Turn the key to on, your fans should start running. Allow the IAC at least 30 seconds to fully seat then turn the key off and remove the wire. Disconnect the tan/black wire that is for timing advance, it is right alongside the master cylinder. Start the engine and set the idle at 50-100 rpm UNDER whatever idle is programmed into the chip, (this is Jesse's proven method and it does work on modded engines) so if your chip is set for an 800 idle, set the actual idle at 700-750. Once you get the idle set then you can turn the key off, reconnect the IAC then set the TPS. Disconnect the TPS and run a jumper wire from the top and the second terminal on the TPS to the connector. These jumpers should be bared in the middle so you can connect a voltmeter to them. Once everything is hooked up turn on the key and set the TPS to .54 volts. This should take care of getting the TPS back where it belongs in relation to the the throttle blades.
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13
Definitely do as Midnight 85 has posted, though you will need to know where the warm idle is programmed in the chip. Once the IAC and TPS are adjusted properly, you can troubleshoot from there if the problem persists.
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Midnight 85...described perfectly! I will do exactly that. Thanks for the walk through. I will keep you posted...won'y be able to get to it until tomorrow.
#20
Race Director
I dont know what your engine mods are,or the chip requires,but is there a minimum air speed you need to set the TB to?
Some mods and chips call for a different one than factory settings.
Some cars you need to have someone put it in D and hold the brake down while you adjust the minimum air screw,tps and accordingly.
Im not sure what works for your car...anyways I had this problem after a few engine mods..the factory setting was not working with my mods or chip so I made a few trials and found a sweet spot the car loved.
I cant recall what it was,but i tried 450 rpm,500,550,600 etc.
Didnt go to high though,just did a few adjustments until I found that one spot the car just ran so good with.I figured the mods I had threw it off some.
Btw,when your car acts up,say in park,warmed up,unplug the PCV valve and let me know how the engine behaves,if it idles better,or even worse etc.Im assuming you can do this before you adjust everything.If not thats cool.
Im curious because I found something strange years back with this technique that im trying to see if it happens on other cars too.
Some mods and chips call for a different one than factory settings.
Some cars you need to have someone put it in D and hold the brake down while you adjust the minimum air screw,tps and accordingly.
Im not sure what works for your car...anyways I had this problem after a few engine mods..the factory setting was not working with my mods or chip so I made a few trials and found a sweet spot the car loved.
I cant recall what it was,but i tried 450 rpm,500,550,600 etc.
Didnt go to high though,just did a few adjustments until I found that one spot the car just ran so good with.I figured the mods I had threw it off some.
Btw,when your car acts up,say in park,warmed up,unplug the PCV valve and let me know how the engine behaves,if it idles better,or even worse etc.Im assuming you can do this before you adjust everything.If not thats cool.
Im curious because I found something strange years back with this technique that im trying to see if it happens on other cars too.