I wanted to give you guys a idea on my whole set-up so you can better help me:

Engine:

Stock 1982 Corvette Crossfire Engine, cast iron heads
No modifications to engine
Tested good on compression, new stock oil pump and stock water pump

Ignition:

Stock remanufactured HEI distributor, AC Delco Wires, Bosch Platinum 2 plugs, New coil, cap, and rotor. All ignition components are new.

Double checked TDC and firing order of wires….everything correct. Base timing set at 6* BTDC and actual timing at idle is approx 17* BTDC

Transmission:

Rebuilt 700r4 w/ overdrive
Has shift kit and new TC w/ a slight stall
Also using a 4000 pulse speed sensor in transmission
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...22 0095546113

Engine Control Unit:

Remanufactured ECM 1227730, custom harness and custom chip
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=80 71872892
1990 – 1992 Speed density set-ups
Chip is written for a Stock 1990 – 1992 Camaro TPI w/cast iron heads


Sensors:

All sensors are brand new
Map, IAC, Oxygen, TPS, VSS, IAT, CTS, and Knock sensors
New relays for fuel pump and fan
http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/357

Fuel Delivery:

Brand new stock TPI in-tank pump
New crossfire fuel filter
Stock 22lb injectors, flow tested and checked w/new o-rings
Fuel regulator, used, stock and looked fine




TPI unit:

Stock 1986 TPI unit removed from a camaro
Has cold start delete using the plug and cap on fuel rail
Stock 48mm throttle body, throttle plates nice and tight
Brand new gaskets
New K & N filter on throttle body

Emissions:

No emissions – EGR taken care of on the chip
Has EGR block-off plate
No fuel canister purge, removed from chip. Throttle body has vacuum cap on that hook-up.
No pvc valve, spot in manifold is capped off
Have hose ruuning from passenger valve cover to throttle body vacuum.

Charging system:

Rebuilt stock starter (brand new)
Rebuilt stock alternator (brand new)
Brand new battery
All new belts and hoses

Cooling:

Stock water pump
Dual spal electric fans
Aluminum radiator

I think that’s everything…

Now Symptoms:

1. Slight miss at idle
2. Seems to be running lean, fumes burning eyes like tear gas.
3. Chugging / jerking at cruising speed, goes away upon acceleration, comes back after letting off gas
4. Several plugs have white film on electrodes…sign of lean condition
5. Vacuum check shows vacuum at 19 inches at idle slightly fluctuates between 19 and 18….kind of like a heartbeat.
6. Vacuum at 2000 rpm holds steady at 25 or so inches…no movement.
I didn’t seem to have any of these issues until I installed the TPI system, it ran decent with a carburetor. Hopefully that’s everything……
7. Also noticed last night some black sooty looking water out of my exhaust...

I still need to check for vacuum leaks.......and I have a cable coming in so I can hook to my laptop and get a better idea on whats going on...

Thanks for the help!

 

First question:
Headers, or Manifolds?
Second question:
How close is the O2 sensor to the cylinder head?

 

~ Ram Horn Manifolds

~ O2 sensor is on passenger sides about 6" from the bottom of the manifold / exhaust mounting flange right before it bends under the car.

I did noticed something a few minutes ago, I checked everthing I possibly could and decided to check the battery / alternator even though they are new.

Battery showed 12.26 volts

Started car and alternator started showing 6-10 volts back and fourth and never got above 12 volts

I bet that's a lot of my problem

 

Not familiar with a speed density, but I do have a question.
How are the crankcase gases being evacuated ??
The port in TB is meant to supply clean air to the crank case while the intake manifold sucks the fumes from the other valve cover.

 

And theres your problem. You traded reliability for drivability. I wish I could put a carb on my '85 but that would result in problems as well. Its a never ending conundrum.

 

I have the hose on the passenger valve cover running up to the throttle body, driver's side has a push in breather installed and the pvc port in the manifold is capped off.

Still looking for a nice set of chrome valve covers to do away with the push in breathers and set it up properly.

 

Hopefully with the money spent I'll get all this right eventually..

 

Good news....found the source of my miss....it was the alternator

My troublehooting book said that if you have a miss it could be a defective alternator sending voltage spikes to the ECM.

It said to try two things

1. Disconnect the two prong plug off the alternator and start car up and see if miss goes away........it did and actually idle better

2. Check AC voltage off back of alternator w/car running....should be no more than .5 volts.....mine was 25.2 volts

Now I need to find a better stronger alternator..

 

Now that you figured it out, I have a question.


Why did you choose to use a VSS? Did you think about removing the VSS functions from the chip, or is that not recommended? Or did yours already not have a mechanical speedo?

I know the VSS controls some emissions functions, but I'm not sure what else.


I ask because I have a TPI setup ready to go on a carb'd 350 and am wondering if it was a bad idea to delete the VSS. Someone else did the programming.

 

You can get away with not using it, but really I wouldn't.

It's responsible for the lock-up control on the transmission, but it's also plays a roll in the idle speed, cooling fans and air/fuel ratio

If you want your engine to run at it's peak, it really needs to be used.

I chose an combo sensor / gear that mounts inside the transmission with stock connections...it's a 4000 pulse unit that was found on 90-92 caprices and has the mechanical speedometer drive on it because the cop car versions used some extra stuff that called for it. The camaro / firebird version doesn't have provisions for a mechanical speedometer because of an electrical speedometer.

You can buy a VSS that mount's outside of the tranny and runs inline with the speedo cable that will work just as well. You can get them at www.jagsthatrun.com make sure it's for whatever you have your new chip programmed at (2000 or 4000 pulse)

You can even buy a 2000 pulse VSS that was used on some early 80's chevy cars for around $40 at the local parts stores...

To get the most out of fuel injection you really need to use a transmission w/overdrive too Although they will work just fine with the pre-700r4 transmissions..

check out www.chevythunder.com lots of good info on the subject

 

Ok, but the TB port that you have you hose hooked up to, is not a vacuum port. You basically have 2 fresh air inlets, but nothing to suck the fumes out of the crank case.

 

1. your engine may breathe out the crank case pressures, but your engine was designed to operate in a negative atmosphere inside the engine except at heavy acceleration.
2.the TPI needs the port you capped off to allow it to function, placing the position of the IAC to operate in it's normal ranges. It might be wide open, not being able to completely react to the computer commands because it is already wide open.
3.The extra ports on the throttle body are calibrated leaks if the corresponding equipment at the end of the hoses function as designed whether or not the factory equipment is actually installed.
4.If you have eye burning exhaust, it might be an indication that the catalytic converter is seeing a richer mixture than required, and is actually burning the rich mixture in the pipe after it fires off.
5.I would seriously obtain a vacuum diagram from an 86 or an 87 car, and complete the vacuum circuits with a vacuum manifold made of plastic and vacuum hoses and plug the hoses one by one to simulate what you blanked off, to see if the eye burning goes away and comes back, and put the pcv valve back into your manifold plumbing.
6.The pcv valve is your friend. the rocker cover is the highest point in the crank case, and as your engine gets up to operating temerature, the moisture that condenses as your engine heats and cools during normal on/off cycling condenses in the inside of the rocker covers. as your engine warms up, the water again turns to a vapor, and the water is circulated through your engine, and only ejected during high acceleration times. Where otherwise, the pcv valve is constantly removing the vapors in your engine during those times when the engine is not blowing out vapors with your foot in it.The water may find it's way to the pan, and momentarily be sucked up by the oil pump on occasion. The first place it will go is the oil filter, and water is thinner than oil, and then the next place is your rear bearing.

 

So it was the alternator eh? That seems unusual. Good thing you found out what was wrong, now you can go have some fun

 

Yeah that's crazy, I got the replacement alternator this morning, they tested the other one and it was defective.

I got all the stuff I need to set up pvc the correct way while I was there too