Since I have been helped so very much by the experienced members here, I wished to post what I learned from a recent task - my recent replacement of the rear weatherstrip on my 95 LT1.

The rear weatherstrip looked nasty when I bought the Vette. Now I worked up the courage to replace it - the members here are correct, its easy.

1. You might need the help of a second person, a good job for the wife (husband) to get involved.

2. The Helms manual lays it out pretty well, I will skip the steps mentioned there - with exceptions below.

3. I did not have to remove the molding on the roof. just remove the screws and gently pull down on the back.

4. The rear moulding needs to come off and side mouldings need to come loose. Put down some newspaper on the carpet, use latex gloves.

5. If its a lot of glue found on the old strip, use two people to remove (one each side). Glue on carpet or paint is harder to clean.

6. I would say its a must to get the old glue off the male piece. 3M Adhesive remover is great. Use paper towels to get off heavy glue, then rags with the 3M adhesive remover on a rag to get the remaining glue residue off. The remover will eat your gloves, so have extra pairs.

7. 3m Adhesive remover has a very strong smell, use very good air flow. Also, try to not rub it too hard on the paint. If so, wash it off straight away. Place the can somewhere where it will not spill!! That did not happen to me, but this stuff is strong stuff.

8. To get the new strip on you have to get around the struts that hold the glass up. I unbolted from the top (connect to glass) one side at a time. The second person holds the glass.

9. The side mouldings have a pointed flare in the front. To reinstall, pull the side moulding back, then rotate slightly toward the inside of the car (turning top over) , and the tip should move on top of the weatherstrip.

10. I did not reglue, the weatherstrip went right on and stayed on. The moldings hold it down. Putting the strip in the sun for 5-10 minutes beforehand is a great idea.

A lot of this is found in other posts, but I wanted to place it here in one place. Doing the gentle pulldown of the top molding, the gentle twist of the side molding. and unconnecting from the top was not seen on the board before. Perhaps these steps are the best way - but it worked great for me.

When finished the weatherstrip and glass edge should be flush, my old one was not.

That's about it, beyond what the Helms manual says.

This is not an engine rebuild story, so sexy it is not. If it helps someone, I am happy. Many, many fine people here have helped me. I just wanted to pay some of that back.

I welcome comments if anyone believes the above is incorrect

The Wave rules!!

 

thanks for the info i have to do mine soon also i was putting it off like you were fearing the worst. what helms book are you refering to and where can i get one... looks like it might come in handy thanks in advance

 

Hello:

The Helms manual is like a mechanics' manual for a car. In th ecase of mine, for my 95, it is a two part set, in red paperback bound editions. One of which mostly electrical.

Do web search, or a search here, and you will find.

I bought my Vette a year ago. I joined this site that day. In asking advice on what to do or not do, purchasing this manual was highly suggested. That was good advice. The purchase price, about $100 I think, was quickly paid back in saved repair expense in do it myself vs paying others.

Soon, I may step up and replace my intake manifold gasket, that manual provides a lot of info on it.

The manual provides step by step instructions on the removal and installation of almost every part of the Vette.

 

You can buy the Factory Service Manual (also known as the Helms manual) directly from Helms at this link

http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...UWT4MS18DPFLJE

They are also frequently auctioned off on eBay - just make sure that you're getting the Factory Service Manual, and not a Haynes, Chilton, or the "CD" manual.

Steven