C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

McLeod hyd. throwout bearing instructions

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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 10:44 AM
  #21  
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Ah yes I see it now

So if one could retain the Factory Dual mass in a ZF car, then use a OEM ZF disc and a push type pressure plate with the Mcleod.. that would be nice.

I know the clutch on my 90 is not completely right, nto sure if it needs to be replaced or if the hydraulics are bad
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 08:57 AM
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Two more questions.
Do you know if your clutch is the same height as a stock 4+3 clutch?

Did you use any shims between the trans and bellhousing or bellhousing and block?

Thanks
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
Ah yes I see it now

So if one could retain the Factory Dual mass in a ZF car, then use a OEM ZF disc and a push type pressure plate with the Mcleod.. that would be nice.
Due to the thickness of the Dual Mass FW you would need a thicker Bellhousing spacer and a longer Pilot bearing and you MIGHT have to slot the C-beam holes in EITHER the rear or front of the C-beam.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
Ah yes I see it now

So if one could retain the Factory Dual mass in a ZF car, then use a OEM ZF disc and a push type pressure plate with the Mcleod.. that would be nice.

I know the clutch on my 90 is not completely right, nto sure if it needs to be replaced or if the hydraulics are bad
I don't think that's happening. Unless the mcleod is stupid thin, the distance between the bearing retainer/collar and the clutch disc is going to be minimal. Even using a thin 4+3 flywheel and a longer pilot bearing, I think LD85 had to run like a .100 shim between the block and BH. The Bell housing on the ZF and input shaft length is way shorter than a push type setup. 5.8" vs 6.12" or so. The dual mass flywheel is 3/8" thicker,
on a BH that already has almost 3/8" more shallow. So thats what, a little over 5/8" less working room to begin with.

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/zf6/

-- Joe
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:07 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dave_85
Two more questions.
Do you know if your clutch is the same height as a stock 4+3 clutch?

Did you use any shims between the trans and bellhousing or bellhousing and block?

Thanks
He used a Spacer from Summit between the BH and Block, I believe it was a .100 thick spacer.

It looked like this and one of his post lists a Part #
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by LD85
He used a Spacer from Summit between the BH and Block, I believe it was a .100 thick spacer.

It looked like this and one of his post lists a Part #
I thought you made the spacer?? hrmm..

err wait. That was the spacer HE used not you. my bad

-- Joe

Last edited by anesthes; Feb 19, 2008 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Im dumb
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by anesthes
I thought you made the spacer?? hrmm..

err wait. That was the spacer HE used not you. my bad

-- Joe
Correct, I made mine from Sheet Metal at Home Depot and stacked 3 pieces @ .055" thick each.

But in reality, making a spacer is not a big deal, once you buy the TOB, and measure the distance you need for clearance, you just
1.) add the spacer thickness that you require,
2.) lengthen the pilot bearing, they sell these for @ $20,,,,,,
3.) probably buy longer dowel pins for the block @ $10,, then depending on how much of a spacer you add, you may have to slot the c-beam holes. If you add more than 1/8" of aspcer, you wil lprobbaly have to slot the C-bream holes.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by LD85
Correct, I made mine from Sheet Metal at Home Depot and stacked 3 pieces @ .055" thick each.

But in reality, making a spacer is not a big deal, once you buy the TOB, and measure the distance you need for clearance, you just
1.) add the spacer thickness that you require,
2.) lengthen the pilot bearing, they sell these for @ $20,,,,,,
3.) probably buy longer dowel pins for the block @ $10,, then depending on how much of a spacer you add, you may have to slot the c-beam holes. If you add more than 1/8" of aspcer, you wil lprobbaly have to slot the C-bream holes.
Has CentralCoaster contacted you? He was asking me some questions the other day. His ZF6 exploded, and he was curious how to ditch the pull style clutch. He said it has been slipping since installed, and mostly worn. I think his problem was likely due to the thinner 4+3 flywheel + normal L98/LT1 pivot stud. This combo could cause the salve cyl to compress beyond normal limits and make it 'ride the clutch'. (just my theory).

In any event, I told him to drop you a line since I'm bailing on the push setup for at least this season. A friend of mine suggested using a push style hydraulic TOB out of a '93 V6 camaro, since it works with the stock hydraulics (vs a 3/4" bore), and has the propper collar size for a black tag trans. It's $70 retail. Maybe next fall.

-- Joe
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 12:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by anesthes
Has CentralCoaster contacted you? He was asking me some questions the other day.
-- Joe
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