I just finished up a ZF swap that started off life w/ the Ram C4 conversion "kit" but ended up with the Mcleod bolt on bearing. Unfortunately, the Ram assembly was far from a "kit" and the pieces as delivered wouldn't work without adding a significant amount of shims to get the correct spacing.

Instead of focusing on the failures of the Ram product I thought it would be useful to address the installation of the McLeod #1345 Bolt on Hyd. Bearing for those interested in an alternative to the stock ZF6 slave cyl.

The Mcleod bearing bolts in place of the transmission collar and comes w/ an oil seal pre-installed. Pretty simple, remove the bolts and the collar comes off. Install the new bearing w/ the bleeder line at 12 o'clock. Make sure the bearing is compressed all the way and take a measurement from the face of the throwout bearing to the face of the transmission mounting surface."B" = (mine measured 2.094")

Next you need to know the distance from the crown of the pressure plate fingers to the mounting surface of the bellhousing to transmission face. *** If you already have the bellhousing,flywheel , and clutch assembly you can take this measurement and give it to Mcleod when you order so they can give you the correct piston if your setup is different from stock. My measurement "A"=2.199" but this was with the oddball FW/Assy from Ram.

These measurements are important because you need to have room for the bearing to retract when the clutch wears. Ram recommends .150"-.200" gap between the fingers and T-O bearing face during installation. McLeod recommends .100"-.300". This number is found when you subtract "B" from "A" above. * Don't forget to factor in the stock shims. I added an extra shim since I had one from the prior attempts w/ the Ram setup and came up w/ .170".

One thing that needs to be addressed is you will need to install a pedal stop for your clutch pedal. I used a 1/4" piece of Al. w/ an adjustable bolt that mounted to an existing bolt at the firewall on my '88.

Pricing.... #1345 bearing is $391 from Jeg's and add a 36" SS clutch line from Earl's or Longacreracing.com for $25 and you can sell your slave cyl. / stock line to recoup some of the cost.
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=536&catid=17

I only have 300 miles on mine but I am very happy with it so far. If you want more detailed info check out the scanned instructions below.

 

Great info Matt!

So you kept the Ram disc, FW and PP.

I hope your organic disc does not smell as stinky as mine does. When I take the tranny out again, the disc will get replaced with a different disc, probably semi metallic (?)

 

I just wanted to put a good post together w/ instructions so others won't have to go through the bs I/we did.

I stayed /w the Ram FW/PP/organic clutch because of time constraints . I couldn't get any answers from Ram and the decision maker there was on "vacation" for two weeks so I just ordered the Mcleod bearing. I figured worst case I could get a refund for the Ram T-O bearing....... (long story) Bottom line is that I am the proud owner of the most expensive clutch replacement in C4 history.

 

Well, at least now you can buy the lesser expensive TOB and slip it onto the McLeod 1345, and you now have a greater choice of PP & Discs.

I dont know that thickness the RAM Flywheel is but I am pretty sure it is just a factory thickness flywheel so even the flywheel will cost less in the future than the ZF flywheel.

Even the Street Twin in the Push type looks pretty nice for a high HP engine!

 

Did you get the 1st or 2nd design 1345 throw out bearing?

 

Matt, when you used this part, did you bend the metal tube so it stuck out of the bellhousing?

 

Hey Matt, my HOWE TOB staretd leaking, looks like the O-ring rolled over inside the sleev ewhere it seals the fluid in.

I will call McLeod and see what they say.

Sucks to be me sometimes but, I pulled the tranny in 2 hours 30 minutes

 

That stinks. Nice job on the removal. If you haven't talked w/ Mcleod yet this is the link w/ the part #.
http://www.mcleodind.com/application...OB_BoltOn.html

I'm guesing mine is the later version since they just made it a couple of months ago. I think you will be happy with it. It just "feels" like a better quality piece.

Regarding the Longacre line, I didn't use the solid piece. I used the two lines that came w/ the bearing and the 36" line to the Master. I had a leftover 12" line from the Ram kit that I connected to the bleeder line and made a 90* al. bkt that mounts to the bottom of the tunnel for easy access if I need to bleed it.

FWIW, I have about 400 street miles on it and I just finished my first race weekend w/out any issues. 2 days of hard shifting and 140+mph over and over. Not a drop lower in the reservoir and it was consistant the whole weekend.

 

Thanks Matt, Howe Racing's tech guy thinks the pedal stop should allow for less travel.

A new seal kit is only $10 so I ordered one and will give it another shot

 

FYI:

A Hydraulic TOB for a '98 camaro can work too, and it will work with the stock master cyl. The problem is the ID. The "small version" is 36.11MM
which is 1.421". The ZF6 is either 1.305" for the "blue tag", or 1.375" for
the "black tag".

The cost is about $45 for the TOB, and it shouldn't cost too much for a machine shop to make an insert thats .116" thick, with a light press fit.

I might give this a try using a 10.4" flywheel/clutch combo.

-- Joe

 

Have you tried this yet? I like the cost.

 

Nope. Maybe next fall.

-- Joe

 

Did you use the 4+3 slave cylinder?

 

No. The slave was eliminated.

 

Sorry, I mean did you use the 4 + 3 clutch master cylinder.

 

Yup, original 4+3 master.

 

Thanks!

 

is there a need for a pedal stop with the Mcleod TOB?? if so is it included?

 

interesting info, thanks

 

The Mcleod TOB will not over travel and come apart like the Ram/Coleman/Howe products but they do recommend a pedal stop to keep from over pressurizing the system and causing a leak at the o'ring.

The image earlier in the thread shows how to do it. Mine is about as simple as you can get....(2 pieces of 1/4" thick aluminum mounted to a bolt on the firewall)