Hey guys, I just bought an 85 TPI 4+3 Trans 47k, I want to build a track road race/
street car. I am thinking I might be better off to spend additional dollars
for say a 93 LT1 6 speed. My thinking is my 85 will need trans, paint wheels, brake upgrades, etc. to hold up at track. When I could buy a 93 that already has a 6 spd, better brakes etc. for an additional 5k. Will the 6 speed hold up to the track punishment? I am trying to make the financially smart decision. I just want to end up with a fast reliable track car. What do you guys think?

Thanks Waveman

 

Upgrade, you'll save money.

 

I personally like the 85s...Less electrics than the LT1 cars, light,somewhat stiff suspension etc. Only downside is power. What class are you going to race, will you need heavy engine mods?

Plus, if you crack one up it would be cheaper to replace.

 

I also like the 85's, but...
The hindsight wisdom in this decision will be based upon the quality of the 93 you can find for $5k more.
Do some shopping and close looking at newer cars, then decide.

 

What type of track? For the drag strip, you'll soon be converting that 6 speed to an auto. For the $5000.00 difference in price, with the '85 YOU get to make decisions. With the '93, the first $5000.00 of the modifications budget is pre-spent. I really don't have much of a preference. I'm just playing devils advocate, here. I do tend to lean toward the older car, though.

RACE ON!!!

 

 

I'm going to assume that you mean road course type tracks and that you don't have much experience.

I recommend that you have fun with the 85 until you know whether track racing is something you want to be very serious about. I have an 86 and have very much enjoyed my track times here in northern CA. I'm basically a low intermediate or advanced beginner and my 86 runs with the miscellaneous cars in that grouping just fine -- especially like staying with/passing the $40K and up cars. I also carry my wife as copilot so it's family fun.

For $200 in brake pads, HP+ will stop you just fine. Tires are a challenge if you want to stay with 16 inch wheels. I believe that I bought Sumitomos and they have been OK. Need to go to a racing tire if I am going to improve much more. So for $500 you can be on the track. Spend a couple hundred more on new fluids, belts, hoses, etc.

The torque of the L98 is great on a road course where traction in the corners is the biggest limitation but the ability to move out down the straights is helpful.

Have fun.
Steve

 

No doubt in my mind, stay with the 85 all the way.

1) The 85 is the second lightest C4 ever made, the 93 is the heaviest C4 made. And almost all of that weight increase was to the front end ... and you know what that does to handling and traction off the corners. Ever look under the dash and hood of a 92+ compared to an 85? You can see where all that weight is.

2) The 85 is much simpler (does not have all the add on electronic BS and huge electrical complexity increase that the 93 has (CCM computer, Air Bags, ABS, Traction Control, electric Ride control shocks option, electronic AC option, an additional mile of wiring ...) The simplicity will greatly reduce your long-term frustration factor, and makes it easier to work on and maintain.

3) Believe it or not, with equivalent tires and wheels, my bet is that the 85 outhandles the 93. (93 is heavier and has soft spring rates). The early c4s are great handling cars.

4) While the 93 brakes are definitely better than the 85's brakes; For road racing, you are definitely not going to be satisfied with the 93's brakes either ... So you will pay the upgrade cost either way.

 

If I were to do it all over again, I'd get that 85 with the old 4+3 transmission, simply because it already has the stronger Dana 44 rear end. Then you can swap the transmission with a well built later model 700-R4 or even an aftermarket manual transmission. Yes, don't we all love simplicity! For extra "tunability" I would swap over wiring harnesses and ECM for the 86-89 MAF harness, or better yet, the 90-91 MAP/SD harness. Lots of information all over the Web. Good luck!

 

Race what you have for starters, if you get serious an early C5 Z isn't going to go up in price anytime soon

 

The early C4's are the best for road racing IMO. Slightly better handling and plenty of low end grunt. You can spend $5K in upgrades and smoke a stock LT1 vette.

 

Much much much less than that!!!!

 

I have an 86 and an 01 corvette. The 01 out handles, out performs the 86 until I want to work on it.
The 86 is easier to work the bugs out of it, and with the whole hood/fenders assy out of the way, you get to sit on the tire (on a towel, of course) and work on it without messing up the fenders.
everything the computer looks at is through resistance. change the resistance, you change the parameters. Hows that for tuneability.
86 had some of the softest spring rates, and hollow sway bars. I upgraded to 85 stuff, rides good and it handles great.

The 85 should be easier on your wallet anytime you break something, and it's still a road carver that will run with the best of them.
The only place the 85 will be the most disappointing is the cheapo plastic interior. But....... If you are racing it, thank the powers that be that it doesn't weigh very much.
The L98 in 383 form is a killer engine. you can use your own block, buy the kit and a small grinder, and make your own 383 for about $700 plus gaskets and injectors, chip and time($1200). long ways away from the $5000 you were going to give away. Run that for 6 months, up grade the heads
If you want to do a big brake thing, it's wheels, tires, and brakes. $1200 - $2000 plus pads if you buy from off this forum.
If you are racing, your priority for new items, blemish free takes a quick turn south.
Just my 2c worth.

 

With the stock intake manifold, it would make extremely good torque, but peak much lower than a 350 version. Most 383s work very well with aftermarket TPI intakes with larger runners and more plenum area with the ports siamesed.

I remember in the shop when a guy dynoed his 388 (just a stroker motor taken an extra .030 over) with a stock cam and stock, unported intake manifold, basically it was the cheapest short rodded 388 he could build. The motor made roughly the same hp as a stock L98 (227 rwhp) but at about 3800 rpms. Torque was very strong. It was 365 ft-lbs at 2200 rpms, basically where the dyno chart started. It had almost like a diesel-like power band. I could have used it in a big truck!