LT4 Hotcam
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
LT4 Hotcam
I am very interested in gettin a new camshaft in my car and im not a huge gearhead. I found this for sale through another thread. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...6&autoview=sku Does this kit need anything else in order to have it installed?
#2
That's the same kit that I ordered. When I had my hotcam installed, the builder told me to buy trickflow pushroads and a cloyes timing chain set. I dont know if its necessary but that's what I did. If I were to do it over again I would have also upgraded the opti to a MSD because 2 years later I think Im having serious opti issues.
In the end, you will love the Hotcam and it will pull topend like crazy. Nothing beats the sound as well. Also, plan on getting a tune done. If you have an Auto then it will be difficult to drive until the idle gets bumped up because the cam isn't efficient at low RPMs anymore and it will want to stall.
EDIT: And I forgot, you will need gaskets. Not sure which ones because I didnt do the work
In the end, you will love the Hotcam and it will pull topend like crazy. Nothing beats the sound as well. Also, plan on getting a tune done. If you have an Auto then it will be difficult to drive until the idle gets bumped up because the cam isn't efficient at low RPMs anymore and it will want to stall.
EDIT: And I forgot, you will need gaskets. Not sure which ones because I didnt do the work
Last edited by Darkgh0st; 06-25-2007 at 11:49 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
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I am very interested in gettin a new camshaft in my car and im not a huge gearhead. I found this for sale through another thread. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...6&autoview=sku Does this kit need anything else in order to have it installed?
#5
you will need to get intake gasket, and timing cover gasket, and the 3 seals. depending on how many miles your car has on it mite want to change timing chain & gears. and a good time to change plug wires. and look at the water pump real good while you have it off.
#6
Race Director
Isn't it a good idea to get new lifters with the new cam?
#7
I did the HOTCAM myself
The extra parts cost me less than $40.00 from autozone. (If you dont include 5 Quarts of Mobil One).
1. Valve Cover Gaskets (my old ones were great and I could have reused them).
2. One piece Oil Pan Gasket.
3. Intake gasket. includes EGR and Throttle body gasket.
4 Timing Chain cover gasket KIT. Comes with 2 seals and a little O ring that MUST be used on the shaft that turns water pump.
5. Water Pump gaskets
6. One tube of gasket sealer for the intake manifold (rear).
EXTRAS IF NEEDED
1.Check Opti bearings and seal....if good, just replace the cap and rotor inside.....inexpensive.
2. Definitely change plug wires...God awful expensive
3. Water pump
4. Radiator hose.....definitely change the UPPER one and new thermostat and gasket.
CAUTION. Make certain tranny cooler lines are not rubbing against cross member under engine (brackets holding them must be tight).....mine rubbed shortly after cam install and they were a b**ch to replace.
For unknown reasons, I had to drive the car 5 miles before it began running right. Now it sounds and drives killer killer killer. I have not tuned it yet, and it idles rich....but mid and upper rpms are perfect.
1. Valve Cover Gaskets (my old ones were great and I could have reused them).
2. One piece Oil Pan Gasket.
3. Intake gasket. includes EGR and Throttle body gasket.
4 Timing Chain cover gasket KIT. Comes with 2 seals and a little O ring that MUST be used on the shaft that turns water pump.
5. Water Pump gaskets
6. One tube of gasket sealer for the intake manifold (rear).
EXTRAS IF NEEDED
1.Check Opti bearings and seal....if good, just replace the cap and rotor inside.....inexpensive.
2. Definitely change plug wires...God awful expensive
3. Water pump
4. Radiator hose.....definitely change the UPPER one and new thermostat and gasket.
CAUTION. Make certain tranny cooler lines are not rubbing against cross member under engine (brackets holding them must be tight).....mine rubbed shortly after cam install and they were a b**ch to replace.
For unknown reasons, I had to drive the car 5 miles before it began running right. Now it sounds and drives killer killer killer. I have not tuned it yet, and it idles rich....but mid and upper rpms are perfect.
Last edited by snowmaker2000; 06-26-2007 at 03:31 PM.
#10
Lifters are optional. If they look ok they probably are, if you want to upgrade them, that's good too.
The nature of my automatic changed when I put the Hot cam in. At first I thought something was broken. Before the cam change, the trans would stay hooked when I took my foot off the gas, until I tapped the brakes when it would unhook and freewheel like other trans do normally. After I changed the cam, the trans didn't seem to stay hooked like it used to. It ran fine but I was concerned. Then I realized that the overlap on the hot cam was a lot larger than the overlap on the stock cam, and that the trans was still hooked when I took my foot off the gas but the engine braking is reduced because the overlap lets more gases through. You'll enjoy the Hot cam. With the 1.6 rr's and a tune, you'll get about 30 horses.
The nature of my automatic changed when I put the Hot cam in. At first I thought something was broken. Before the cam change, the trans would stay hooked when I took my foot off the gas, until I tapped the brakes when it would unhook and freewheel like other trans do normally. After I changed the cam, the trans didn't seem to stay hooked like it used to. It ran fine but I was concerned. Then I realized that the overlap on the hot cam was a lot larger than the overlap on the stock cam, and that the trans was still hooked when I took my foot off the gas but the engine braking is reduced because the overlap lets more gases through. You'll enjoy the Hot cam. With the 1.6 rr's and a tune, you'll get about 30 horses.
#11
#12
The Hotcam is for those guys looking for that "cam" sound, a little more power, and easy install. (i.e. not valve spring, rocker issues, etc.).
If you want drastic and ridiculous power... gears, long headers, and heads are next. in that order.....right guys?
#14
Here is a webpage that will keep you busy for hours. It explains everything about modifying LT1 engines. It discusses what works VS. gimmick ripoff BS you will see in corvette magazines that just wastes your money. Its written by Nathan Plemons.
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/htmls/performance.html
#16
Racer
I noticed no one is saying you have to change the rocker studs.
The shop that has my Vette, after changing the cam it would not run right and they called some other shops and was told when you change to the Hot cam you have to change the rocker studs so you can adjust the valves.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Did you change the rocker studs??
The shop that has my Vette, after changing the cam it would not run right and they called some other shops and was told when you change to the Hot cam you have to change the rocker studs so you can adjust the valves.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Did you change the rocker studs??
#17
#18
Race Director
Interesting with the lifters, that brings the cost way down as they are pretty expensive.
#19
Race Director
I did the HotCam, gears, and long tube headers. Have NOT done the heads, as I'm afraid I'll break something on my old LT1 engine, which now has 153K miles, if I get the power up too high. Doing just these few things has taken my 92 A4 from a 14-second quarter down to mid 12's at 109 mph. Based on a weight of 3580 lbs with car and (heavy) driver, the engine is now at around 400 estimated crank HP.