Best LT1 Mod
I'm still looking for your year with a manual. One site says its a 3.73 but I don't think thats right. Do you have the D36 or D44?**Just wondering for personal information**
Last edited by Sleek Vette; Jun 28, 2007 at 10:57 AM.





6sp = Dana44
auto= Dana36
They'd help out a lot, but if the engine is "tired" you may just want to save up for either a rebuild or a crate engine.
ok i'll be the idiot to ask...
i have a 94 auto......what does dana36 mean????
sorry, just a rookie here
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My suggestion is wake up the top end of your motor. 1.6 rr. new springs and pushrods. ASP underdrive Pulley. will really help the LT1 breath and pull hard to redline.
If you're looking to spend a bit more, Do a heads and cam. Use your LT1 heads and go with bigger valves and have them ported by a reputed shoppe with a cam to match. that will really change the way ur motor feels.
If you are capable of doing the work yourself cut the prices in half.
Just remember with 144k miles the engine is the weak link.
Opinions are like elbows and I usually have two!

Go to www.summitracing.com and look up the kit. Most everything else is shopwork and can be done locally in the larger cities. Maybe $2500 investment.
How do you know the engine is tired, other than the miles? A compression test might be a good idea to see if the engine really is wounded. Or bring it by the shop and we'll dyno it. If it's not down on power, I don't think you have much to worry about as far as the motor being tired. It might need some valve seals or something, but the stock bottom end, at stock power levels, should last basically forever.
If you're not looking to do anything crazy; I think long tube headers, rockers, and gears would give you a pretty good boost. Those mods should put you pretty close to 300 RWHP, and if you throw a cam into the mix 330+ isn't really out of the question. The cam swap is pretty expensive from a labor stand point though, so you might want to wait on that. Regardless, we can do all that stuff for you if you want.
Even considering the miles, my vote is still for the bottle though, lol.
To make the engine 'new again' you'd need to pull it out, bore/hone it, buy some new pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets. However, at that point, it gets really hard to not throw performance parts at it. Once your in that far, it's really not that much more expensive to build a 355, 383, or even a 396.
The single largest gain you can realize (other than a power adder like nitrous) is by swapping out the heads. If you were to change the heads, the cam, and the associated valve train components the entire top side of the motor would be brand new, which kind of sounds like what you are looking for. However, there are risks to building a monster top end on a bottom end that has only seen stock power levels for the last 144,000 miles.
If reliability is key, and you don't have the money to get into the motor, I think the combo of headers, rockers, and gears that I listed above is probably your best bet.
Good luck!
Last edited by neat; Jun 28, 2007 at 04:59 PM.









I have a 95 auto just like yours we refer to them as 95A4 because it's an auto trans with 4 speeds.
As Brian mentioned the auto trans cars came with the lighter weight less robust Dana 33 rear end. It's no problem however at all unless you are going to modify your engine for an additional 100 horse power
I didn't mean to imply that you had to come to the shop to get anything done. Do it yourself, do it with some friends, have a shop do it, whatever. Just do it. Modding your car successfully is one of the most rewarding experiences there is, in my opinion. There's nothing like selecting the parts, saving the cash, buying the parts, and then feeling the results after the install. It's really satisfying. Much more so than someone who drops off their car and their check book and then just asks for XXX horse power.
Have fun with it man, that's what the car was made for.













