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I believe my L98 cars that ran around 220-230 water temp made around 75 rwhp. The LTR intake isn't a huge fan of heat soak, but all you guys already know that.
I ain't giving my opinion either way, but I do know what stat I've run since 1994 in my last 5 L98 cars. And curiously none have blown a motor or used copious amounts of Mobil 1.
He's absolutely right. If you doubt what I said, check out Smokey's book Power Secrets. If that book isn't in your library, it should be.
Maybe so, but from what I have experienced a hotter engine = warmer intake air = less dense air = less power. Therefor most of us with LT1's just relate a warmer engine to less power. LT1 engines are known for heat soak. I used to cool down the intake with ice between runs. I don't think I would ever want my car to be around 210 deg at the track. It has always run better and made more power at much lower temps. I have not read the book. I may have to check it out.
1) The science behind horse power as we know it is the the more density ( colder air ) the bigger the hp
The problem with the corvette if you will is the Air Intake is located in a isolated environment that sucks in the hottest air in the engine compartment. Plus the way the C4 takes in Air ( ambient ) is very inefficient so in other words everything will get real hot , the air and all the liquids as well. Which includes engine recovery , bringing the temps back to optimum operating temps. Nascar engines never get hotter than 210 degrees
1) The science behind horse power as we know it is the the more density ( colder air ) the bigger the hp
The problem with the corvette if you will is the Air Intake is located in a isolated environment that sucks in the hottest air in the engine compartment. Plus the way the C4 takes in Air ( ambient ) is very inefficient so in other words everything will get real hot , the air and all the liquids as well. Which includes engine recovery , bringing the temps back to optimum operating temps. Nascar engines never get hotter than 210 degrees
Well I not too proud to admit when I'm wrong, but not entirely. Drove car again today, it did hit 210 with the a/c on idling at a stop light, out side temp about 94 degrees, But not running the a/c only reached 190. also I think someone has programmed the cooling fan to come on early, comes on at about 178 degrees. Thank you to everyone who left replies, I know now more than I did.
Maybe so, but from what I have experienced a hotter engine = warmer intake air = less dense air = less power. Therefor most of us with LT1's just relate a warmer engine to less power. LT1 engines are known for heat soak. I used to cool down the intake with ice between runs. I don't think I would ever want my car to be around 210 deg at the track. It has always run better and made more power at much lower temps. I have not read the book. I may have to check it out.
Rick,
This may be absolutely true with the C4, I've never owned one, god knows I want to, but I can't afford one being under 25, so I found a wrecked one and stole the motor from it and put it in my 4Runner. All I know is what I've read and what I've experienced. I've never had an issue with cooling in mine, I'm running a 3 core wiffle, built around the stock 4Runner tanks, a 16" Flex a lite fan, and computer programmed to come on at 190 and headers that have been coated by Jet Hot. I was sitting in traffic today with 105 temps and the vehicle never got over 210. Alot of drag racers will sacrafice larger radiators to save on weight, plus when you are doing single 1/4 mile passes with a half an hour between, it doesn't always pay off when your thermostat may not be open by that time anyways. I know on my Coronet I too would ice down my intake to help provide cooler intake temps.
Here's the excerpts from both Smokey's book Power Secrets and Small Block Chevy Performance (in that order).
Maybe so, but from what I have experienced a hotter engine = warmer intake air = less dense air = less power.
It has always run better and made more power at much lower temps.
That is great for the race track. I spray my radiator and run my fan between rounds, to cool my engine to minimize the heat transfer from the heads, block, and coolant to the intake manifold, which heats the combustion air. Icing the intake manifold is an excellent idea. But to run a too cool thermostat on the street on a daily basis only prolongs warm up, causing unnecessary engine wear, and reducing power. In an engine that is driving down the road, the inlet air temp is very little different whether the engine coolant is 180° or 210°.
According to Smokey: The coolant temps should be between 200-210*F. 220*F for maximum HP output but he also states that 220*F is right on the edge. I agree with that. That where a race engine should operate. I drive 10,000 mile per year. I race about 8 times down the 1/4 mile in a year. That's 2 miles a year. My Vette is racing .0002 % of the miles. So how does that apply to the average Vette owner? 99.9998 % of my miles are spent driving around town. My guess is most are concerned that their Vettes are close to overheating. The main focus should be on keeping it cool not building HP. I like HP but not if it adversely affects reliability or streetability.
Last edited by Kool88vette; Jul 6, 2007 at 08:07 PM.
This is comical. The poster asked what's a good thermostat. Ever notice how a post will almost always end with arguments over HP and 1/4 mile times? The poster could ask what windshield cleaner to add to my windshield sprayer. After awhile someone will say don't use any cause the added weight will slow you down.
Last edited by Kool88vette; Jul 6, 2007 at 08:49 PM.
This is comical. The poster asked what's a good thermostat. Ever notice how a post will almost always end with arguments over HP and 1/4 mile times? The poster could ask what windshield cleaner to add to my windshield sprayer. After awhile someone will say don't use any cause the added weight will slow you down.
I actually do run less washer fluid. I never fill it over a quarter full. With weight reduction, it all adds up!
This is comical. The poster asked what's a good thermostat. Ever notice how a post will almost always end with arguments over HP and 1/4 mile times? The poster could ask what windshield cleaner to add to my windshield sprayer. After awhile someone will say don't use any cause the added weight will slow you down.
Well lets be honest with one another here? Why did you buy the Vette over... let's say a Stang? If it were a Pinto, I don't think you'd be too concerned about horsepower, now would you? You paid for those horsepower, why not get what you are paying for? And not to sound rude, but could you tell me where we were talking about 1/4 times? other than saying that it's the intake temp that creates the horsepower?
Well lets be honest with one another here? Why did you buy the Vette over... let's say a Stang? If it were a Pinto, I don't think you'd be too concerned about horsepower, now would you? You paid for those horsepower, why not get what you are paying for? And not to sound rude, but could you tell me where we were talking about 1/4 times? other than saying that it's the intake temp that creates the horsepower?
I said "almost always end with arguments over HP and 1/4 mile" I did not mention this post. Actually, I'm not that concerned about HP. Sure, I want a fast Vette but I want one that's reliable and streetable, I wanted a nice looking convertible sports car. Many Vette owners don't race their cars or care about HP.
I said "almost always end with arguments over HP and 1/4 mile" I did not mention this post. Actually, I'm not that concerned about HP. Sure, I want a fast Vette but I want one that's reliable and streetable, I wanted a nice looking convertible sports car. Many Vette owners don't race their cars or care about HP.
If you wanted a nice looking convertible sports car that's reliable why not go with a Stang?!? Oh wait! Ford, I get it now, nevermind!