HSR Intake Install - questions!
With the OEM small cap coil and the OEM harness,
the end from the dist should only be able to install one way. The
ACDelco pigtail with the red and white wire should go on the remaining
two terminals, again only one way.
The red wire from the pigtail goes to power, the white wire goes to the
tach.
.
Update - we found the correct fitting in brass - turns out GM uses it in the radiators! We got it fixed and buttoned up - now - all thats left is to make sure it is running OK - then head out for El Mirage this weekend - looking to go over 150!
Thanks for all of the help guys!
Carl
Last edited by Carl Johansson; Jul 12, 2007 at 09:04 AM.
With the OEM small cap coil and the OEM harness,
the end from the dist should only be able to install one way. The
ACDelco pigtail with the red and white wire should go on the remaining
two terminals, again only one way.
The red wire from the pigtail goes to power, the white wire goes to the
tach.
.
We used MSD's on line manual to figure it out! a nice resource!
I'll let you know if it goes Boom - but we think we have it all figured out!
Because of the things we have removed - diverter valve, cold start, coolant flow to the throttle body etc - we think it will be running a little rich.
So I'm looking for what you guys would think to be a good starting point for fuel pressure - we have the stock fuel pump - putting out 43 lbs if I am not mistaken - and we are running the stock 22 lb injectors - so anyone want to take a shot at giving us a starting point - essentuially - what do you think we ought to set the AFPR at?
Carl
smallish injectors and no W-B tuning is risky business.
Michael and Nick knew it in the movie. Carl knows it here ...

Now that this is out of the way.
Forum threads usually say the stock pressure is 43 psi. An
'89 manual diagnostic chart calls for a range of 40.5-47 psi.
If you have an '88 FSM, check to see what it says.
With the 22# OEM injectors in an application where they
may be undersized, more pressure may help compensate at
high RPM (where they reach their limit) but the additional
pressure can impact idle & low speed operation (because
more fuel than expected is being introduced).
Here is a quick summary from the FSM Diagnostic to get you
started.
Install gauge
- Ign 'Off' for at least 10 sec
- A/C 'Off'
- Have someone watch gauge and someone else listen for fuel pump
- Turn Ign 'On' (not 'Start')
==> Fuel pump should run for about 2 sec
==> Gauge should show pressure between 280-325 kPa (40.5-47 psi)
==> and hold steady after pumping stops
--> Pressure but below 280 kPa (40.5 psi)
...... Attempt to adjust AFPR
--> Pressure but above 32 5kPa (47.0 psi)
...... Attempt to adjust AFPR
--> Reaches pressure but won't hold
...... Post back if this occurs
--> No Pressure
...... Listen for sound of pump & post back
- Start and idle engine at normal operating temp
==> Pressure should read lower than inital reading in
==> step 1 by 21-69 kPa (3-10 psi)
IF NOT OK
- Apply 10" vacuum (MityVac.com tool or equiv) to AFPR
port
==> Fuel pressure should drop 21-69 kPa (3-10 psi)
Post gear info there, not here.
Melonized Gear for Small Cap Distributor
.
If we screw up - well - we screw up - we pick up the pieces and learn from our mistakes. blowing that motor would just give us a reason to fgo to the big block faster!
And if we blow up racing - how much more fun could you be having? and where else you gunna get a great bench racing story!
This has all been a learning experience - and it continues to be so! i value and appreciuate all of the info given to me here! I also have alot of fun putting it to the test!
In the next 2 weeks i have 3 different corvettes running 3 different kinds of race in 3 different states. beats the hell out of staying home and watching NASCAr on TV!
Ken ,
Your breadth of knowledge amazes and continues to amuse me! thanks for the smiles!
Carl
smallish injectors and no W-B tuning is risky business.
Michael and Nick knew it in the movie. Carl knows it here ...

Now that this is out of the way.
Forum threads usually say the stock pressure is 43 psi. An
'89 manual diagnostic chart calls for a range of 40.5-47 psi.
If you have an '88 FSM, check to see what it says.
With the 22# OEM injectors in an application where they
may be undersized, more pressure may help compensate at
high RPM (where they reach their limit) but the additional
pressure can impact idle & low speed operation (because
more fuel than expected is being introduced).
Here is a quick summary from the FSM Diagnostic to get you
started.
Install gauge
- Ign 'Off' for at least 10 sec
- A/C 'Off'
- Have someone watch gauge and someone else listen for fuel pump
- Turn Ign 'On' (not 'Start')
==> Fuel pump should run for about 2 sec
==> Gauge should show pressure between 280-325 kPa (40.5-47 psi)
==> and hold steady after pumping stops
--> Pressure but below 280 kPa (40.5 psi)
...... Attempt to adjust AFPR
--> Pressure but above 32 5kPa (47.0 psi)
...... Attempt to adjust AFPR
--> Reaches pressure but won't hold
...... Post back if this occurs
--> No Pressure
...... Listen for sound of pump & post back
- Start and idle engine at normal operating temp
==> Pressure should read lower than inital reading in
==> step 1 by 21-69 kPa (3-10 psi)
IF NOT OK
- Apply 10" vacuum (MityVac.com tool or equiv) to AFPR
port
==> Fuel pressure should drop 21-69 kPa (3-10 psi)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
.
Well - we got it running - fired right up - 1 fuel leak (at the schrader valve) Still has a little miss in it from maybe 2500 - 3K rpm- we will try to work that out tonight. To answer your previous question - as of now we cannot log data - we will be able to soon - but not this weekend!
Guesses for speed anyone?
Carl
The intake is capable of more RPM than the rotating components
and valvetrain of the existing engine. The unknown state of tune
may put the pistons at risk.
There's no money at stake this weekend. Why not just shake it
down gently, figure out what needs to be tweaked and then go
for broke at the next outing?
.
threads?
With weather calling for highs/lows of 107/66, the Cold Start Valve
won't be missed just now.
Glad to hear it is running. I'm interested in updates to describe how
it feels.
.
I'm guessing an HSR on an 88 motor will make around 270-280 rwhp with open exhaust with a good tune.
Subract 3%/1000 feet, now maybe down to 230 rwhp.
The MAF can support these power levels so I wouldn't be too worried about top end lean out.
An 88 bin will target 12.4:1 AFR at WOT, fuel pressure 46-48 psi would be a good starting point.
If you really want to run as lean as 14.5:1 you will need to drop the fuel pressure considerably. I Don't know if I'd want to go there without a WB or EGT sensors.
Good luck on the quest to 150 mph.
We are happy with the fuel pressure , so we left it alone.
We fooled with the timing while it was on the scanner - got some good info - we are convinced it will run just fine this weekend - It goes on the trailer tommorrow afternoon!
I'll rig up the video camera inside the cabin - so you can see the tach - as well as the course!
Carl
in feedback about how the package runs up in first, second and perhaps
third now. My vote is that it will last longer at 5,500 than 6,000.
Have fun, be safe. Who's driving?
.
Usually we split driving - myself and my crewchief/codriver each gets a run. Then if they have time for more runs - whoever is suited up in the car usually goes around for a 3rd run!
I'm expecting that the car will "run through the gears quicker" getting up to 4200 rpm (seems to be the shift point") quicker with the HSR. That will leave longer in 4th - with more breath - so I expect it to pull stronger for longer, remember all that matters here is RPM when we go through the timing trap - if we are making more RPM - we are going faster!
Carl
I don't know why you guys complain about having to cut up the hood to make room for the HSR. We just put a little grease on the top - saw where it was hitting - knocked a hole on the hood with a hammer - then kept enlarging the hole with tin snips and a hacksaw blade - no problem! we now have clearance!
Check out the photos!

Ignore the old man - thats my crew chief/codriver/fabricator - he made up that scoop in about an hour!
If we like it - we will clean it up and make it pretty!

it may become dual purpose - If we see airflows showing air coming out of the scoop - that would indicate higher pressure inside the engine compartment - we could help that out by Louvering the top of the Blister!
If we don't like this one - we will look at making a fiberglass blister that follows the lines of the hood and just bubbles up.
Wanna see our secret weapon?
since the car was on the trailer already the photos a bit hard to see -

But you can see that we have panned the whole rear of the car - from the suspension back - that giant vacuous area had to be acting like a giant bucket dragging us back - and the expanding volume available for air under the car was certaily giving us big turbulance - It will be interesting to see the dust train this week compared to previous weeks
carl









