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In some prior posts I was told that it is necessary to use rubber cleaner prior to installing weatherstrip as the rubber has a releasing agent on it. If you don't remove it then the adhesive will not stick properly. The question I have is: Can you use alcohol, de-natured alcohol or any other product to remove the residue? It seems that the release agent cleaner is fairly expensive for a pint- for such a small job, and is hard to find? I plan on doing the job this weekend.
In some prior posts I was told that it is necessary to use rubber cleaner prior to installing weatherstrip as the rubber has a releasing agent on it. If you don't remove it then the adhesive will not stick properly. The question I have is: Can you use alcohol, de-natured alcohol or any other product to remove the residue? It seems that the release agent cleaner is fairly expensive for a pint- for such a small job, and is hard to find? I plan on doing the job this weekend.
I know there is "die" release agent from when the strip was manufactured and release agent used for removing old stripping. I haven't read anything about having to clean new strips with a release agent. Maybe your mixing the two up? I'm am starting this project myselft today. I have all the new stripping and a kit I ordered with instructions and a few little tools to help. I plan on wiping the new stripping with alcohol to remove the "die" release residue.I'll let you know how it's going. I'm starting with the hatch first.
I decided to before I tore into this and thank goodness. Just started my targa top about an hour ago and my channels and screws are rusted shut and the channed so rusted inside the lip broke off. Had to take a break do to frustration, not sure If I cant all the rusted screws out. Well, heading back to the project. I'll keep ya posted.
Okay, got all the rusted screws out with a combination Impact Driver, liquid wrench and a dremel to slot the top of two of them. I went ahead and took the black metal window trim off also, since it was loose in places. Used a high tech. tool for that (a hockey puck), layed it against the edge of trip and tapped with a hammer......worked good and only $1.99 at your local hockey shop.
I think that there are two types of residue to be removed, one is the old weatherstrip and one is the release agent on the new weatherstrip. I did see a post about this one lately.
As far as the old weatherstrip remants go, there are the solvent type removers, but as was already said, it is largely scraping. I made my own scrapers out of some pieces of sheetmetal to get into the corners. Just cut pieces out with tin snips and bend them with pliers to get the fit you need. Otherwise, I used screwdrivers, x-Acto knifes and whatever other scrapers I had around. Whatever you end up doing, it is critical to get it all out.
As far as the release agent goes, they coat the equipment that the WS is made in with a release agent so the WS doesn't stick to it. Obviously, some of this stuff remains on the WS and will prevent your glue from sticking to the WS. When I have removed this in the past, I used some lacquer thinner to do it and had no problems. I would say any solvent would work, just go easy because they will probably attack the WS in short order.
When I did my A-Pillar, I didn't use any glue, most people do, but a few of us just put the 3M bedding and glazing compound on the corners and ends and let the weatherstrip retainer hold the WS in place.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner & Wax Remover (pn# 08984)
is intended and recommended for weatherstrip replacement.
.
"Will not harm most thoroughly cured automotive paint, vinyl, or
fabrics when properly used." according to 3M literature.
I can vouch that it did not burn the finish on an '89.
.
will clean both the mold release and the old adhesive material.
.
I used Goo-Gone, rubbing alcohol and a narrow chisel. Scrape it out of there, then clean your new weatherstripping with some rubbing alchohol before installing it permanantly.
I'll tell you another thing that helped a lot:
Pre-fit your weatherstripping (without glue), button everything up and let it sit overnight in a cool place. Then pull it off and glue it in. Really made the job easier when it came to fitting the new rubber.
I just did mine a couple months ago - IM me if you need any more help.
Thanks for the tips!!!!! I am waiting for the WS to be delivered so I can tackle this job this weekend
Totally finished the Targa strips today. As noted earlier I replace the C-channel, all screws and re-glued the trim while I was at it. Looks very nice now. If I can ever figure out how to post pics on this forum I do so. Either the hatch or door weather seal for tomorrow, I'm flipping a coin.
The Hatch stripping is the easiest thing on the whole car, in my experience. It's like a drop-in fit.
The doors are not.
I found that it was best to apply the adhesive to the door side, then attach one end of the weatherstripping, and apply a small amount of glue to the weatherstripping a couple of inches (the distance between studs) at a time and press into place all the way around the door (pretty much no choice with all of those push-in retainers...)
Just finished one door, and yes that was the worse so far. The weather stripping I bought is a little different in areas, although it still fit. It seems to stick on the window as I move it up and down, so I put some lube on it an it's working better. I HIGHLY SUGGEST using GM BRAND weather stripping, I am finding slight differences that I don't like with the EBAY ones. I've read on a few post that they will slowly fit themselves into place, I hope. The door now shuts very snug for sure. GOOD LUCK
Have done the front windshield/pillar so far....NOT fun getting the old stuff out of the channels, even with the tool kit & 3M adhesive remover. I think your question was about the release agent on the replacement wstrips. Yeah, you shoudl clean them.....wipe them down with alcohol or similar.....you are just trying to get a thin film off that could make your new adhesive not stick very well. I actually just sprayed some of the adhesive remover on a rag and pulled the new strip through the rag quickly a couple times. Had no issues so I suppose it worked. Not the most fun I ever had working on my car, but stopped the leak and looks way better. Oh, also, if you do the windshield/targa sides for the first month or so make sure you put your windows up with the door open, then close the door every time- helps to mash the new stripping into right shape for a good seal as it sets in with time. If you put windows up with doors shut and watch you'll see that the new stripping is too puffy and gets knotted up a bit. After some time doing windows up, then doors shut it will work in and no longer be necessary.
Finished other door and window felt this morning and hatch seal this afternoon. The hatch seal is by far the easiest of all, although you will think it is too long at first. Just keep working it around and fitting it tight and will go right on, no glue needed. A and B pillar tomorrow and I'm all done.
I bought and installed new hatch w/s from Lonestar Muscle Car. The "new improved reinforced model" I am totally impressed with the quality, fit and the installation, required no glue either.
Okay, I finished the nightmare from hell and have now had a few beers to celebrate........so please don't pick on my typing. All weather stripping is complete. They look great, but I'll check the water tightness tomorrow at the car wash. Door felts and Rear hatch were a breeze. The door, a-pillar and b-pillar pretty much s u c k e d. If anyone needs any advice, I'm willing to share. This should be on the discovery channel on the "worst jobs" show. Oh well, learned a lot.
Got the doors, rear hatch and the rear pillar done. I used Lonestar. I wasn't really impressed with the weatherstrip for the following reasons. The corners of the rear hatch were reinforced but the glue job at the joints weren't well done. The old door weatherstrips had reinforcements at the ends but the new ones did not. I really don't have a complaint with the product due to its price, but the next time I will definitely go for GM. Let you know next week with the other weatherstrip!!!!!
Got the doors, rear hatch and the rear pillar done. I used Lonestar. I wasn't really impressed with the weatherstrip for the following reasons. The corners of the rear hatch were reinforced but the glue job at the joints weren't well done. The old door weatherstrips had reinforcements at the ends but the new ones did not. I really don't have a complaint with the product due to its price, but the next time I will definitely go for GM. Let you know next week with the other weatherstrip!!!!!
The ones I got from LoneStar, must have been different than the ones you got. Mine were first rate Quality. My doors had the reinforcing strips in them as well, did you get the ones they sell on Ebay? I called and talked to them and they said they have a better quality, which is the stuff I bought.
I installed weatherstripping around the A pillars and across the stop of the windshield at the targa top a few weeks ago. The driver's side leaks a little when I wash the car. It doesn't leak when I drive the car in the rain or if it goes through a heavy thundershower with the car cover on it. But everytime, I wash the car, it leaks a few steady drops. The weatherstripping seemed a little deformed where it leaks, as though the rubber had a joint at this point (about halfway up the A pillar). When the window is up, everything looks tight, but there is this leak. I may try to put some more 3M adhesive in the grooves to make the rubber fight tighter against the glass.