Knock Sensor Removal - TIPS?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Denton Texas
Knock Sensor Removal - TIPS?
I had to replace a cut heater hose this evening. While I was at it I want to drain all the coolant & replace with the GREEN stuff. I want to pull the knock sensor but I am a little hesitant.
Do I just need a 7/8 sock on the sensor & turn counter clock wise?
I turned the sensor in this direction 2 clicks & only the round inner part of the sensor moved.
I don't want to damage the thing.
Please give me your advice!!!
Do I just need a 7/8 sock on the sensor & turn counter clock wise?
I turned the sensor in this direction 2 clicks & only the round inner part of the sensor moved.
I don't want to damage the thing.Please give me your advice!!!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 579
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From: Denton Texas
2 Knock Sensors???
I'm more confused now.
After further inspection it looks as if I have 2 knock sensors. Identical locations on either side of the block.
I have a 95 LT1. I thought on 96 had 2 knock sensors?
After further inspection it looks as if I have 2 knock sensors. Identical locations on either side of the block.
I have a 95 LT1. I thought on 96 had 2 knock sensors?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,263
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From: O'Fallon Missouri
Yes, you have 2 knock sensors. Be careful not to overtighten when reinstalling.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,189
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From: Houston PA
Yes, counter clock wise will remove, and yes, one on each side of the block. Mine came out very easy, they should not be very tight. Make sure your socket is on the sensor all the way. Careful with the wire conector, you need to reuse it. Put some light sealer on the sensor before reinstalling, torque to specs.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 477
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From: edmonton alberta
when you reinstall be carefull you dont install them to tight ,or it will pick up false knock .if i remember right on a lt1 you torque them to 12ft lbs with a crows foot on the torque wrench .and you only use Teflon paste not tape.
Team Owner
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Also, you can use a pair of vice-grips to fasten onto the hard, circular, outer part of the sensor if you can't get it out with a box-ended or socket wrench. Be careful!
It's real easy to break off the plastic acoustic coupler and render the sensor useless. The orange coating that comes on them is all you need. DO NOT add plumber's tape to the threads.
If you wanna' be REAL resourceful (like me) reverse thrust the air on 5.5 hp or higher Shop Vac and BLOW the coolant out of the radiator, heater core and block.
With the engine warmed enough to open the thermostat, remove the coolant reservoir tank cap (on the passenger side of the engine) then open your radiator petcock.
The forced air will drive ALL the coolant out of your system without having to remove the sensors. Simply hold the hose in place until nothing but air comes out.
It's real easy to break off the plastic acoustic coupler and render the sensor useless. The orange coating that comes on them is all you need. DO NOT add plumber's tape to the threads.
If you wanna' be REAL resourceful (like me) reverse thrust the air on 5.5 hp or higher Shop Vac and BLOW the coolant out of the radiator, heater core and block.
With the engine warmed enough to open the thermostat, remove the coolant reservoir tank cap (on the passenger side of the engine) then open your radiator petcock.
The forced air will drive ALL the coolant out of your system without having to remove the sensors. Simply hold the hose in place until nothing but air comes out.
Last edited by onedef92; Jul 12, 2007 at 10:37 AM.
