Need a little liquid encouragement.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Need a little liquid encouragement.
Hello All!
My Vette is getting front brakes, and I told the dealer to go ahead and check the fluids and such. He came back with five things that he thinks should be done and I was going to ask your opinions.
1. Brake fluid
2. transmission fluid/filter
3. fuel filter.
4. power steering fluid
5. rear differential fluid.
The car is a 1994 automatic with 39k miles, and I'm betting all original fluids (except oil and coolant of course). I always thought the rear diff was sealed and good for a long time, the tranny fluid has been on my "to do" list anyway, and the fuel filter may not be a bad idea because I tend to run the gas low sometimes. The car is a cruiser by use, the tach needle doesn't swing high very often. What do you guys/gals think?
-Robert
My Vette is getting front brakes, and I told the dealer to go ahead and check the fluids and such. He came back with five things that he thinks should be done and I was going to ask your opinions.
1. Brake fluid
2. transmission fluid/filter
3. fuel filter.
4. power steering fluid
5. rear differential fluid.
The car is a 1994 automatic with 39k miles, and I'm betting all original fluids (except oil and coolant of course). I always thought the rear diff was sealed and good for a long time, the tranny fluid has been on my "to do" list anyway, and the fuel filter may not be a bad idea because I tend to run the gas low sometimes. The car is a cruiser by use, the tach needle doesn't swing high very often. What do you guys/gals think?
-Robert
#2
Race Director
They are probably past due..
What color is the brake fluid... amber or coffee/cola colored...
If dark brown with coffee grinds in the bottom of the master ... yup its past due.
You can use a turkey baster/syringe to remove the fluid from the master cylinder and top it up with fresh DOT3& DOT 4 fluid ( Valvoline Synpower fully synthetic is a good choice) Drive the car and every two days repeat the process until what is in the master is transparent and amber.
What color is the transmission fluid? red or brown... If brown that mean it is oxidized change it... This might best be doen at a shop depending on your skill set.
Power steering.. I change mine over using the turkey baster method every other year.. Suck the reservoir dry, refill, drive around the block turning left and right, suck the reservoir dry, refill and drive again...
keep the process up until the stuff coming out is red and clear... it might take 2 qts given the age of your car. Valvoline semi-synthetic Powersteering fluid is a good chice and readily available.
At 13 years of age, i would change the differrential fluid...
Get 2 - 4 oz bottles of GM limited slip ( posi) fluid and 2 qts of 75W90 Synthetic gear oil ... Drain the old oil, add the 2 bottle sof additive and them the gear oil.
What color is the brake fluid... amber or coffee/cola colored...
If dark brown with coffee grinds in the bottom of the master ... yup its past due.
You can use a turkey baster/syringe to remove the fluid from the master cylinder and top it up with fresh DOT3& DOT 4 fluid ( Valvoline Synpower fully synthetic is a good choice) Drive the car and every two days repeat the process until what is in the master is transparent and amber.
What color is the transmission fluid? red or brown... If brown that mean it is oxidized change it... This might best be doen at a shop depending on your skill set.
Power steering.. I change mine over using the turkey baster method every other year.. Suck the reservoir dry, refill, drive around the block turning left and right, suck the reservoir dry, refill and drive again...
keep the process up until the stuff coming out is red and clear... it might take 2 qts given the age of your car. Valvoline semi-synthetic Powersteering fluid is a good chice and readily available.
At 13 years of age, i would change the differrential fluid...
Get 2 - 4 oz bottles of GM limited slip ( posi) fluid and 2 qts of 75W90 Synthetic gear oil ... Drain the old oil, add the 2 bottle sof additive and them the gear oil.
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks, rws. 1
I thought these things needed done, I'll have the shop do them. I'm not made of money, but I have no under hood skills, or tools. Plus my garage is laughably small, I could afford a bigger place, I just don't want it. I have a two bedroom place, it's a real shame I couldn't just trade the extra bedroom for another garage bay. Heck, I'd love an efficiency apartment if it came with a four car garage, now that'd be sweet! all fun and almost no housework.
-Baughb.
I thought these things needed done, I'll have the shop do them. I'm not made of money, but I have no under hood skills, or tools. Plus my garage is laughably small, I could afford a bigger place, I just don't want it. I have a two bedroom place, it's a real shame I couldn't just trade the extra bedroom for another garage bay. Heck, I'd love an efficiency apartment if it came with a four car garage, now that'd be sweet! all fun and almost no housework.
-Baughb.
#4
Race Director
It is a little more difficult than that. You can't just drain the diff oil, it will have to be sucked out.
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2002
Location: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
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Diff fluid isn't something you change normally, but after 13 years its not a bad idea. It breathes through the vent as it heats and cools and can draw in moisture. Not to mention all the contaminates in it, especially from initial break-in that have never been removed.
The other stuff.. if you don't know the last time it was changed, then change it.
I don't think the brake fluid will necessarily look dirty if it's contaminated with water, but the water will corrode your brake master cylinder.
I'd recommend an inline filter on the power steering on the reservoir return line, your rack will last longer with it. This is the only circulating oil on the whole car that doesn't have a filter from the factory.
The other stuff.. if you don't know the last time it was changed, then change it.
I don't think the brake fluid will necessarily look dirty if it's contaminated with water, but the water will corrode your brake master cylinder.
I'd recommend an inline filter on the power steering on the reservoir return line, your rack will last longer with it. This is the only circulating oil on the whole car that doesn't have a filter from the factory.
#6
Drifting
Just changing the fluid in the Master Cylinder will not change the fluid in the calipers. There is no fluid exchange in the brake system, it will need to be flushed out via the bleeders. I have heard the brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years.
#8
Drifting
Member Since: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
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Robert, even though you don't have much of a garage, there are 2 things in your list that I would suggest that you do yourself. You will easily save an hour or two in dealer labor charges.
1. Brake fluid => Buy some Speed Bleeders and install. The only tool you will need is one common wrench, plus some clear pvc tubing from Home Depot to fit the Speed Bleeders. Then you can bleed the brakes anytime with minimal effort or mess. You can pay for the bleeders and brake fluid with what you'll save versus the dealer doing it. You will also know it was completely bleed with a quality fluid. Real easy.
2. transmission fluid/filter => Let the shop do this.
3. fuel filter. => Not real hard, but in your case, let the shop do it.
4. power steering fluid => Super easy. Follow rws.1's advice and buy a turkey baster ($2) and some Valvoline synthetic power steering fluid. It takes less than one minute to unscrew the PS cap, suck out the fluid, and pour new fluid in. No tools. You'll have better PS fliud in there than the dealer will use and you won't pay a 30-60 minute labor charge for 5 minutes of effort.
5. rear differential fluid. => Let the shop do it.
1. Brake fluid => Buy some Speed Bleeders and install. The only tool you will need is one common wrench, plus some clear pvc tubing from Home Depot to fit the Speed Bleeders. Then you can bleed the brakes anytime with minimal effort or mess. You can pay for the bleeders and brake fluid with what you'll save versus the dealer doing it. You will also know it was completely bleed with a quality fluid. Real easy.
2. transmission fluid/filter => Let the shop do this.
3. fuel filter. => Not real hard, but in your case, let the shop do it.
4. power steering fluid => Super easy. Follow rws.1's advice and buy a turkey baster ($2) and some Valvoline synthetic power steering fluid. It takes less than one minute to unscrew the PS cap, suck out the fluid, and pour new fluid in. No tools. You'll have better PS fliud in there than the dealer will use and you won't pay a 30-60 minute labor charge for 5 minutes of effort.
5. rear differential fluid. => Let the shop do it.
#9
Le Mans Master
brake fluid
be careful with brake fluid, it is the best paint remover money can buy. If you get it on the paint, whatever it touches will have to be repainted. it's just that simple.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hmm, I'll have to check on those speed bleeders and the turkey baster. I may actually have the baster in the "drawer of essential kitchen stuff" my mom bought me when I moved out of the house fifteen years ago. I haven't opened that drawer in ohh, about fifteen years.
-Robert.
-Robert.