A/C repair
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 7
From: Houston Texas
AC compressor diagrams:
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S..._Code=diagrams
Compressor listed by type not vehicle make.
All are in downloadable .PDF files.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S..._Code=diagrams
Compressor listed by type not vehicle make.
All are in downloadable .PDF files.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Nose piece is similar - I followed this guys procedure when I did mine about 5 years ago with no problems. Point is that you don't need any special tools to complete this job. It would be nice if there were some specs for the shaft. As the seal wears, it can grove it and once that happens, a new seal isn't going to work.
'88 to '96 is the Nippo 10PA20C. If you bought a late model, the manifold can sometimes be reversed, but it usually needs sealing washers instead of o-rings and that often means a new main hose, speaking of which, note it's installed position. Easy to get it too high and it will then strike the hood. Also, if you remove the manifold, good possibility that it might damage the gasket/o-ring in the process. I'd return it for the right year(s) - '88 through '91.
At some point, the clutch coil diode set up changed which for '88 through '91 is in the connector. Again, I'd stick with what's right for your Year.
'88 to '96 is the Nippo 10PA20C. If you bought a late model, the manifold can sometimes be reversed, but it usually needs sealing washers instead of o-rings and that often means a new main hose, speaking of which, note it's installed position. Easy to get it too high and it will then strike the hood. Also, if you remove the manifold, good possibility that it might damage the gasket/o-ring in the process. I'd return it for the right year(s) - '88 through '91.
At some point, the clutch coil diode set up changed which for '88 through '91 is in the connector. Again, I'd stick with what's right for your Year.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Westfield IN
You are probably low on refigerant. Jump the pressure cycling switch while the car is running, the clutch should engage. If it doesn't, get a test light and check for power at the compressor while the pressure switch is jumped. If you have power and the clutch isn't engaged then your compressor/clutch is seized. 
Thanks again!!
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 7
From: Houston Texas
Go to http://macsw.org/certification.php
Get certified for $15. Online, open book test! Print out your certification online when you pass and they also mail you a wallet card and wall size certificate.
Most auto parts stores still carry R-12 refrigerant in the 12 or 14 oz. small cans and sometimes the 30# cylinders (HVAC supply houses).
Full retail at Auto Zone and O'Riley's auto parts here in Houston is $36-$38 for a 12 oz. can when I checked a couple of months ago.
I'm sure you can find your R12 around somewhere.
Have a good one!
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Westfield IN
Yes, I was able to get the compressor to come on- was the main fan (behind the radiator) supposed to come on as well? I tried searching threads, but I think I remember reading that the fan will always come on when the A/C is on. I was so happy with the compressor that I didn't pay any attention to the fan!! The engine was pretty cool when I did this, and it is an 86L if that matters.
Pro
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 659
Likes: 5
From: Holden, MO
Cruise-In IX Veteran
I'm having my A/C system repaired next week to the tune of $1450.00 OUCH. But it is still being kept at r12. My compressor seized on me and sent metal all through the system. The car is still drivable because the clutch for the compressor still works. Hope yours turns out well.
Mike
Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
L98 a/c Main fan operation is controlled by a switch on the high pressure line that opens at 230 psi (signalling the ECM to ground the relay) and recloses at 190 psi (and the ECM removes ground). A good charge and a clean system should have the fan cranking on/off anytime it's above 70 but below 90. Above 90 and it's probably on more than it's off. Below 50 degrees and it may not come on at all. Design target is to average about 200 psi - that allows the liquid to meter into the Evaporator somewhere just above freezing or around 28 psi. Verify the circuit by disconnecting the switch and the open circuit should turn on the fan. Verify pressures with a Manifold Gage Set.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Yes - assuming it hasn't been going on long enough to put a grove in the shaft, a new seal should fix it. Get the oil off the hood too - in the past, some posted that it leeches through and destroys the paint, including any repaint.
