A/C repair
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
From: North Bay Ontario
I'm not sure if this is helpful, but I recharged my '85 which was still an R12 setup using RedTek. Can't get R12 in Canada legally and for environmental reasons, why would I?? The RedTek came as a DIY kit and the first can is a sealer/conditioner. I had no history or any idea how long the air had not worked; all I knew was the compressor was not seized. Put one can of sealer/conditioner in, and one can of R12a refrigerant and lo and behold, the compressor kicked in and it is now blowing ice cold and has been doing so now for a month and a half.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Westfield IN
I'm not sure if this is helpful, but I recharged my '85 which was still an R12 setup using RedTek. Can't get R12 in Canada legally and for environmental reasons, why would I?? The RedTek came as a DIY kit and the first can is a sealer/conditioner. I had no history or any idea how long the air had not worked; all I knew was the compressor was not seized. Put one can of sealer/conditioner in, and one can of R12a refrigerant and lo and behold, the compressor kicked in and it is now blowing ice cold and has been doing so now for a month and a half.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
From: North Bay Ontario
As a preliminary test, with the engine NOT RUNNING, grab hold of the compressor pulley (sort of a flat face) ahead of the clutch and try to turn it. With a good grip, you should be able to turn it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 42
From: Baltimore, MD USA
I'm not sure if this is helpful, but I recharged my '85 which was still an R12 setup using RedTek. Can't get R12 in Canada legally and for environmental reasons, why would I?? The RedTek came as a DIY kit and the first can is a sealer/conditioner. I had no history or any idea how long the air had not worked; all I knew was the compressor was not seized. Put one can of sealer/conditioner in, and one can of R12a refrigerant and lo and behold, the compressor kicked in and it is now blowing ice cold and has been doing so now for a month and a half.
R12a is a blend. Not good because the chemicals can seperate.
R12a is flammable.
The manufacturer of R12a claims lower compressor head pressure than
r12 and r134a but shows no evidence.
Manufacturer says to use R134a high and low adapter fittings for the conversion.
Each manufacturer is supposed to provide proper adapter fittings that identify the refrigerant type.
If R12a uses R134a fittings it probably is a blend of R134a and who knows what other chemicals.
Most shops probably won't touch the system if it ever needs service because it will contaminate their equipment.
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Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: San Jose California
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: San Jose California
Either way, just make sure your system is evacuated before you attempt to open the system.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: San Jose California
Try evacuating your system and recharging it, you might just have a leaky seal that will oil up and at least get you through summer.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 7
From: Houston Texas
If you need specific AC info here is a great place to ask also.
http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=2
Great bunch of guys over there and they have great parts/service too!
http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=2
Great bunch of guys over there and they have great parts/service too!
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
From: North Bay Ontario
No disrespect. It's your car but here are a couple of reasons why you should have just fixed the leak and converted to R134A.
R12a is a blend. Not good because the chemicals can seperate.
R12a is flammable.
The manufacturer of R12a claims lower compressor head pressure than
r12 and r134a but shows no evidence.
Manufacturer says to use R134a high and low adapter fittings for the conversion.
Each manufacturer is supposed to provide proper adapter fittings that identify the refrigerant type.
If R12a uses R134a fittings it probably is a blend of R134a and who knows what other chemicals.
Most shops probably won't touch the system if it ever needs service because it will contaminate their equipment.
R12a is a blend. Not good because the chemicals can seperate.
R12a is flammable.
The manufacturer of R12a claims lower compressor head pressure than
r12 and r134a but shows no evidence.
Manufacturer says to use R134a high and low adapter fittings for the conversion.
Each manufacturer is supposed to provide proper adapter fittings that identify the refrigerant type.
If R12a uses R134a fittings it probably is a blend of R134a and who knows what other chemicals.
Most shops probably won't touch the system if it ever needs service because it will contaminate their equipment.
Enjoy your ride!
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Westfield IN
$1k - $1200 is an average price for an a/c system overhaul; if you replace the compressor, you need to replace the receiver drier and orifice tube and technically the condenser
Try evacuating your system and recharging it, you might just have a leaky seal that will oil up and at least get you through summer.
Try evacuating your system and recharging it, you might just have a leaky seal that will oil up and at least get you through summer.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: San Jose California
Thanks again- I'm clueless on A/C so one more question if I may. I'm an 86L configured for R12. I know I'm not capable, so if I take it to a qualified repair shop, will I need to change over to R134 or will they be able to try with R12? Any idea of what that would cost? (Ooops- that looks like two questions!). I also hope I'm not thread stealing- I hope I'm keeping this related.
So bottom line is, if you can get R12, just have them shoot it for you; that would be your simplest (and cheapest) route even though the R12 is more costly, the cost to convert would supercede it the price difference of the two refrigerants.
Also, ask them to add a dye to the system so that finding a leak later will be much easier.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 0
From: Suwanee,Ga
As it turned out
Hi, the A/C kit turned out to be only a front seal repair, which is all i would need. I received it from Lawerenceville Auto Parts, Lawerenceville Ga. , but most any good store [usually not a chain] should be able to get it.
Trouble is getting the install tool. I still have not gotten it, and perhaps this is good.
However, it seems the R134 swap will work, but your A/C will perform at a reduced level, especially in the hot Georgia summer. You need the R12 [or 12A] to get the bang for the buck.
Also, the other is a specific R134 Clutch that is needed [oversized? likley] They make a specific new R134 compressor as well [ no core charge so I keep the original , and that is never a bad thing].
$650 for both parts, $65 for an accumulator, and a new 134 systems is the result. That is the way I ended up going.
I get free A/C service from a Pro, so the 134 is free, so is the Nitrogen flush, and the vacuum pumping. So it shakes out as a reasonable alternative and I can play around later if I want.
TJM
Trouble is getting the install tool. I still have not gotten it, and perhaps this is good.
However, it seems the R134 swap will work, but your A/C will perform at a reduced level, especially in the hot Georgia summer. You need the R12 [or 12A] to get the bang for the buck.
Also, the other is a specific R134 Clutch that is needed [oversized? likley] They make a specific new R134 compressor as well [ no core charge so I keep the original , and that is never a bad thing].
$650 for both parts, $65 for an accumulator, and a new 134 systems is the result. That is the way I ended up going.
I get free A/C service from a Pro, so the 134 is free, so is the Nitrogen flush, and the vacuum pumping. So it shakes out as a reasonable alternative and I can play around later if I want.
TJM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
I thought I posted this - you don't need any special tools to repair the shaft seal:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...so_rebuild.htm
To remove the clutch, hold the hub with a strap wrench or oil filter pliers and unbolt the nut. If on the car, put your hand underneath it to catch any shims and pry off the face plate. Pulley and coil are held on with snap rings. Everything else is outlined by the guy doing the Nippo on his Porsche. It's a different model but the seal installation is the same.
Really no difference between the R12 and R134 compressors, though the later years seal up the main hose with sealing washers instead of o-rings. If you buy a replacement, make sure the manifold matches what yours is using.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...so_rebuild.htm
To remove the clutch, hold the hub with a strap wrench or oil filter pliers and unbolt the nut. If on the car, put your hand underneath it to catch any shims and pry off the face plate. Pulley and coil are held on with snap rings. Everything else is outlined by the guy doing the Nippo on his Porsche. It's a different model but the seal installation is the same.
Really no difference between the R12 and R134 compressors, though the later years seal up the main hose with sealing washers instead of o-rings. If you buy a replacement, make sure the manifold matches what yours is using.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 0
From: Suwanee,Ga
I thought I posted this - you don't need any special tools to repair the shaft seal:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...so_rebuild.htm
To remove the clutch, hold the hub with a strap wrench or oil filter pliers and unbolt the nut. If on the car, put your hand underneath it to catch any shims and pry off the face plate. Pulley and coil are held on with snap rings. Everything else is outlined by the guy doing the Nippo on his Porsche. It's a different model but the seal installation is the same.
Really no difference between the R12 and R134 compressors, though the later years seal up the main hose with sealing washers instead of o-rings. If you buy a replacement, make sure the manifold matches what yours is using.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...so_rebuild.htm
To remove the clutch, hold the hub with a strap wrench or oil filter pliers and unbolt the nut. If on the car, put your hand underneath it to catch any shims and pry off the face plate. Pulley and coil are held on with snap rings. Everything else is outlined by the guy doing the Nippo on his Porsche. It's a different model but the seal installation is the same.
Really no difference between the R12 and R134 compressors, though the later years seal up the main hose with sealing washers instead of o-rings. If you buy a replacement, make sure the manifold matches what yours is using.
The Compressor shown in the Pelican procedure differes from the ’89 I have.
The ’88 Nip. Comp. seal goes in from the backside and the Carbon seal and retainer are one part, in the kit I received. They resemble the Pelican detail, but are different.
The “tool” looks like and alignment device possibly used when setting the Seal/Retainer?
The Compressor they sold me is for the ’92 – ’96, and have a different Hi/Low hose configuration, so this little adventure continues.
Do I swap the compressor “tops” so the 88 hoses fit, or spring $63 for ’92 hoses?
To further confuse the issue, I am told I have to change to a 134 Clutch? Why?? Who knows, but the challenge is to find out.
Thanks