C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

A/C runs cooler...

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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 02:30 PM
  #21  
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i`ve heard of other people doing this before, with good results.
GM in recent years has insulated the accumulator on some models.

if the insulation is either closed cell foam, or has an outer moisture resistant layer, then little if any condensation would actually form near the pipes/accumulator.

if you are concerned about moisture causing corrosion around connections and threads, they could be coated with something like spray on wax lubes, such as motocycle chain wax, some brands of this dry to a consistency that is dry to the touch, and would protect the connections from moisture.

naturally, the insulating material selected should be capable of not melting/burning if it gets too close to exhaust system heat, ect.
and there are some insulating materials that could be used that are rated for high heat conditions.

Last edited by BigLee; Jul 19, 2007 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 03:54 PM
  #22  
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GM doesn't use an anti-seize on line fittings - the problems I've encountered doesn't occur after I've rebuilt it - it's always from the factory and again, insulation didn't matter. I have had good success in beating the factory vent temps (by at least a couple of degrees). Assembly process doesn't stop to see if it holds a vacuum overnight and it's pretty much a suck and force feed charge that takes about 5 minutes (if that) per vehicle. The assumption is that the Accumulator/Drier will soak up any residual moisture. I asked to see the process at Bowling Green, but they wouldn't let me into that part of the Factory.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 03:58 PM
  #23  
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Can we see some pics of any you guys that have done this??

I live in orlando, FL, and the summers are rough on my 95 LT1, even though I have tinted windows. It's just that black interior, looks great, but gets hot easily in the sun.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 11:36 PM
  #24  
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It's not unusual to see 100 here and I've never had a problem without it - nor the few times I've been to Vegas in whatever rental car I pickup, though I admit, anything below 60 there feels better than 112. I'd recommend you look at your operating pressures first; stick a thermometer in the vents at the same time, note the temp of the air at condensor, repost. And some shops will do all of this for free (they want the big bucks to fix it). Out here, a shop has to provide this info by Statute - though they can of course charge you - at Poop Boys, it's $29.95.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 08:37 AM
  #25  
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I did mine over the weekend. I went to Home Depot and bought a 6' section of foam rubber residential/commercial 1" AC condenser pipe insulation for $4.49.

I also bought a pack of 7" black, UV-resistant, nylon zip ties to hold the sections of insulation in place around the exposed, aluminum, low pressure lines of my car's AC/system.

I measured the sections with measuring tape, then cut them to fit with a pair of scissors. I was careful NOT to wrap the line fittings, to negate the possibility of corrosion.

If I had a custom-made foam "huggy" for my dryer/accumulator, I'll bet I could increase efficiency slighty more like SunCrsr suggested.

Last edited by onedef92; Jul 24, 2007 at 08:50 AM.
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 09:36 PM
  #26  
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I too would like to see some photos of the lines you guys have wrapped. I drove the C4 today then got out and looked at the lines. Several were very hot to the touch. I grabbed my pyrometer and found several of the lines were at about 170 or so, sounds pretty hot for carrying cold fluid/gas.

I'm still not certain which lines that should be wrapped? Can some one be more specific.
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
I too would like to see some photos of the lines you guys have wrapped. I drove the C4 today then got out and looked at the lines. Several were very hot to the touch. I grabbed my pyrometer and found several of the lines were at about 170 or so, sounds pretty hot for carrying cold fluid/gas.

I'm still not certain which lines that should be wrapped? Can some one be more specific.
...you wouldn't wrap the liquid lines, only the suction/lp lines....
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 02:03 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BIGJIM13
I am interest in what type of insulation you used - any issues about condensation being traped in the insulation and rusting out the pipes?
No. If its insulated well, it won't condense in the first place.

But yeah, aluminum rusts too, just takes longer.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 02:12 AM
  #29  
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BTW guys, the open cell brownish/grayish crap at Home Depot is crap.

The stuff you want is called Armaflex, but there are other brands of it. Basically more of a rubberry insulation, with a smooth non porous surface. Also has an adhesive strip so you can seal it and prevent condensation.

Good:



Garbage:

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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 02:24 AM
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Hmm, would like to try this on my truck...Any outside temp above 90 it doesnt get real cold and the entire system is brand new. Black/black cars
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
BTW guys, the open cell brownish/grayish crap at Home Depot is crap.

The stuff you want is called Armaflex, but there are other brands of it. Basically more of a rubberry insulation, with a smooth non porous surface. Also has an adhesive strip so you can seal it and prevent condensation.

Good:



Garbage:

...i used an adhesive a/c insulating tape....
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 09:13 AM
  #32  
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Nice tip. I tried it and saw a noticable difference.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 07:40 PM
  #33  
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OK, I looked at the AC system and not being too knowledgable on the subject I've provided a few photos.







Questions:

Can someone describe based on these photos which you insulated?
What size insulation did you use? I picked up some today that was for 1/2 pipe but not sure that would be the right stuff?
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 07:43 PM
  #34  
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....if you can send me your e-mail address with the picts, i'll draw it on them...
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:19 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SunCr
There's a reason the line isn't insulated by the OEM's - it traps moisture which leads to corrosion,
If it's well insulated and sealed from air getting to the pipe, there's nothing to condense.

The refrigerant lines in your attic are insulated. They never get wet. If they did, your ceiling would be on your floor.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:51 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
If it's well insulated and sealed from air getting to the pipe, there's nothing to condense.

The refrigerant lines in your attic are insulated. They never get wet. If they did, your ceiling would be on your floor.
Correct!
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:33 PM
  #37  
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I'm gonna have to try this lil trick. Florida humid summers are sometimes unbearable EVEN with AC and the sweat from my forehead will still run into my eyes!
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 01:32 PM
  #38  
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FWIW, On my 95 tahoe, the dryer is "wrapped" with a insulation, from the factory...
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 09:54 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TIMSPEED
FWIW, On my 95 tahoe, the dryer is "wrapped" with a insulation, from the factory...
Hmmmm. Can you get a GM part number? Wonder if it's the same diameter as the one in the C4 Corvettes?
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #40  
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Or you could, just get some wrap for yours. Go outside your house and look at your refrigerant lines where they leave the house to the condensing unit (fan box), there should be a black wrap on there to keep water out of the wall. I expect this is similar to what they'd use under the hood.
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