A/C runs cooler...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Atlanta Ga
My 04 Z06 also has some type of reflective looking wrap that covers one of the lines that runs close to the exhaust manifold. I'm going to try the good rubber type pipe insulation first, if I think it looks JV I'll look for something else.
When I do this I will try to post before after temps.
When I do this I will try to post before after temps.
Team Owner
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Le Mans Master
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From: Modesto CA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
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From: Atlanta Ga
OK, I can't speak to the scientific study here but I have recorded a few temps the best I could for a before and after. All temps were taken using my pyrometer, not perfect but at least its somewhat consistent.
I measured what I could, the Int Ac temp was taken by putting the pyrometer directly up to three different vents, one left, right, and middle. The nut measurement was taken under the hood on the nut where the wrapped line enters the AC unit.
Before
Air Temp = 85
Int AC = (51.4, 54.1, 50.5) = 52
Eng. Coolant = 186
Nut = 81
After
Air Temp = 84
Int AC = (49.4, 52.6, 49.3) = 50.4
Eng. Coolant = 196
Nut = 76
This test is still not enough for me as it was not a "real world" test. When I'm driving in traffic with higher under hood temps I think that is the true test. But, the reading on the nut I think show that the line is able to remain cool and maybe not conduct as much heat due to the insulation, given how hot the exhaust and compressor are in proximity to this line I assume this should help.
Even if it is only 1 degree, I'll take it!
I measured what I could, the Int Ac temp was taken by putting the pyrometer directly up to three different vents, one left, right, and middle. The nut measurement was taken under the hood on the nut where the wrapped line enters the AC unit.
Before
Air Temp = 85
Int AC = (51.4, 54.1, 50.5) = 52
Eng. Coolant = 186
Nut = 81
After
Air Temp = 84
Int AC = (49.4, 52.6, 49.3) = 50.4
Eng. Coolant = 196
Nut = 76
This test is still not enough for me as it was not a "real world" test. When I'm driving in traffic with higher under hood temps I think that is the true test. But, the reading on the nut I think show that the line is able to remain cool and maybe not conduct as much heat due to the insulation, given how hot the exhaust and compressor are in proximity to this line I assume this should help.
Even if it is only 1 degree, I'll take it!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
You could use the same type of heat shielding they put on fuel lines
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1831
Actually not a bad idea to wrap the fuel lines and the intake track.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1831
Actually not a bad idea to wrap the fuel lines and the intake track.
Team Owner
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Can you just post the pic without requiring visitors to register with your fine web site?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Atlanta Ga
OK, I drove the C4 to work today in the warm ATL traffic. The Air Temp was about 78, but in this test the coolant was in the range of 186-208 depending on speed. So I know the under hood temps were much higher than my previous test.
I had the climate control only on 68 or 65 opposed to 60 in the previous test and got temps averaging about 60 coming out the vents over the 20 mile ride. The one variable is I didn't have to contend with the hot sun at this hour, the drive home should be an even better test.
I had the climate control only on 68 or 65 opposed to 60 in the previous test and got temps averaging about 60 coming out the vents over the 20 mile ride. The one variable is I didn't have to contend with the hot sun at this hour, the drive home should be an even better test.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Strongsville Ohio
ok i bought the tubing to cover the lines and i looked and it looks like all my lines are almost already covered, can someone post pics of an ltq
1 and show me which lines to cover??/ thanks guys
1 and show me which lines to cover??/ thanks guys
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Team Owner
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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I might see if I can find a large, foam 16 oz. beer can huggie that will slip over the dryer resulting in a neater, customized installation.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,464
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From: Modesto CA
You'd have to evacuate the system and recharge it to do this, but wouldn't it be cool if you had the entire dryer (minus the fittings, of course) dipped in vinyl like the corks on Maker's Mark Bourbon bottles? You could offer colors like black, red, white, etc...
I might see if I can find a large, foam 16 oz. beer can huggie that will slip over the dryer resulting in a neater, customized installation.
I might see if I can find a large, foam 16 oz. beer can huggie that will slip over the dryer resulting in a neater, customized installation.
Let me save the picture to imageshack and host it from there...
Last edited by TIMSPEED; Aug 2, 2007 at 03:45 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: San Diego, Ca
Testing should be completed at MAX; ie, 60 Auto if Electronic Air. Anything above this can be skewed because the Inside and Outside Sensor signals (and on later Years - the ECT too) are controlling the position of the Temp Door and the results will vary. Also, I'd pickup a digital thermometer at a discount auto supply store - actually, one from a grocery store works just as well - no more than 5 Bucks until the watch battery that powers it up dies. Stick it in the Center Vent for consistency. Do know that if you have 60 at the vents on Max on a 78 degree day, all the insulation in the world isn't going to make it any better - there's something else going on - might just be a temp door problem. There is some info in the Shop Manual about door position too ('92 up) and what it means when you retrieve it from the Panel. Might just take a look at it (or peer inside the Evaporator Case to make sure it's shutting off air from the Heater Core).
Team Owner
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
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That helps! Thanks. Looks like GM just wrapped the upper part of the dryer in foam and left the bottom exposed? Must have been some sort of two-part, molded piece the way it goes around the fittings like that.
