Camshaft Question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth Texas
Thanks Jake
What do you think might be good cam. (make and what lifts) Its all stock can i do this all without pulling the engine up can i remove the rad/cond. from the front and go that away. I am planning on removing my intake this winter as a project and polishing it doing, it all at the same time!
Thanks for taking the time to answer my post everyone on here is great!!!!!
Steve
What do you think might be good cam. (make and what lifts) Its all stock can i do this all without pulling the engine up can i remove the rad/cond. from the front and go that away. I am planning on removing my intake this winter as a project and polishing it doing, it all at the same time!
Thanks for taking the time to answer my post everyone on here is great!!!!!
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,127
Likes: 1,727
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You can change the cam with the engine in, but everything else will have to come out.
ZZ4 is ok, but too small to justify the time/expense. I would go with a TPiS ZZ9 or Accel 211. Their specs are on my site, or run a search for the many other threads on them.
You will need a chip change when the new cam is in.
ZZ4 is ok, but too small to justify the time/expense. I would go with a TPiS ZZ9 or Accel 211. Their specs are on my site, or run a search for the many other threads on them.
You will need a chip change when the new cam is in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Vader gave you two good choices and there are a lot of others as well.
It just depends on some variables, like whether the engine has to pass emissions, how raunchy an idle you can live with, etc.
When looking at camshafts, compare the duration rated at .050; anything above, say, 218 degrees @ .050 begins to get you into the lopey idle territory. And once you cross the 230 degree @ .050 range you also begin to see much lower idle vacuum readings, so low that the power brakes don't work reliably.
There are tons of posts on this Forum of impressions others have on the cam they installed. Try a Search and see what you can come up with.
Jake
It just depends on some variables, like whether the engine has to pass emissions, how raunchy an idle you can live with, etc.
When looking at camshafts, compare the duration rated at .050; anything above, say, 218 degrees @ .050 begins to get you into the lopey idle territory. And once you cross the 230 degree @ .050 range you also begin to see much lower idle vacuum readings, so low that the power brakes don't work reliably.
There are tons of posts on this Forum of impressions others have on the cam they installed. Try a Search and see what you can come up with.
Jake
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,127
Likes: 1,727
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 5
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
www.summitracing.com
They have some Comp Cams hydraulic roller cams for around $255 if money is a concern. Look at CCA-08-502-8 for example. You should replace your old springs as well.
They have some Comp Cams hydraulic roller cams for around $255 if money is a concern. Look at CCA-08-502-8 for example. You should replace your old springs as well.
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 281
Likes: 2
From: Mount Vernon Indiana
I agree that changing the springs would be a good idea too, but to add to the ZZ4 cam, you see a ton of these for sale because a lot of shops pull them out of the brand new crate engines to install a bigger cam.
I tend to prefer a milder cam so the ZZ4 cam would be a decent improvement, but as you add more "stuff", as was said earlier, you'd be leaving more on the table. If you aren't going to add a ton more performance pieces, I think you'd be okay with the ZZ4 cam.
Computer friendly cams usually have closer lobe separation. Could work though.
I tend to prefer a milder cam so the ZZ4 cam would be a decent improvement, but as you add more "stuff", as was said earlier, you'd be leaving more on the table. If you aren't going to add a ton more performance pieces, I think you'd be okay with the ZZ4 cam.
Computer friendly cams usually have closer lobe separation. Could work though.