u can make a 10m sec car with the tpi setup,cnc ported heads,way bigger cam,intake work(porting),and low compression pistons,then pick up a turbo kit,get it tuned and u can be in the 10's while still having a very streetable car!

 

My gut feeling is that your 4+3 will become a pretzel with the kind of power you will need to make your car go 10's especially if your car is still close to factory weight.

 

did any of you guys see that 305 tpi camaro in gm hi tech perf mag about 7 years ago that was a 10 second car .no nos or s/c .i just seen it again about 3 months ago. it was a 305 with factoty runners and tpis lower intake, ported plenum ,afr heads ,and a reed custom grind cam and a accel dfi .

 

Is there a link to this car?

 

Yes, but only for the first 900 feet.

 

I belive that is the car that the owner claimed he had never had the bottom end apart. The car had been lightened.

 

so if not replacing the 4+3 12's is more realistic
thanks all

 

The member corkvette1 has a 10 second 355. And he said that was streetable. Get ahold of him and he will tell you.

 

Yep its more than possible. Again its just attention to detail and putting together a VERY well matched setup.

There are lots of fine examples on the board here of cars runing those numbers. 99% of the problem is most guys do not spend the time and effort upfront to ensure everything is right - and spend the rest of their time trying to find out what mistakes they made. There were a handful of guys on this board about 5 years ago that collectively offered ALOT of insight into what truely worked and didn't - but they learned that most of what they said just caused controversy and figured it was not really worth the hassle.

The funny thing is most of these setup are built from parts or the same parts that are being run on similiar much slower setups. Nothing any of these cars I mentioned are comprised of anything exotic - again they are just very well matched setup that are put together with the needed knowhow.

 

Definately depends what you call streetable, but I think your goals are unrealistic by most people's standards.

My 4+3, TPI with full interior and 1/2 tank of gas was running 13.3, and I figure it will be guaranteed 12's with the new drag radials on it. The car is dead reliable and california smog legal.

I plan on doing extensive weight reduction to hopefully break into the high 11's on TPI, but you may not want your street car to consist of fiberglass, sheet metal, and two fixed back racing seats.

 

That is a common misconception. There are many cars as mentioned above that run in the 10s that have all the luxuries that the cars came with stock - like AC, power windows, seats, stereos etc. All you have to do is put a decent motor in these cars and they will run the numbers.

85vets car is about as unmolested at a car can get and it runs 10.8s. Mine was too until I did the solid rear for reliability. I would have no issue with handing the keys to my wife or even 96 yr old grandfather (who factually did drive it 2 years ago around his neighborhood - funniest/coolest thing I have ever seen). Other than being a little on the loud side, which you could address with different mufflers - I personally like the sound, you wouldn't even know the cars run like they do.

Again that is the difference between putting together a good setup and one that is hacked and doesn't run even close to what it should - sure you will have driveability problems if things are not working as they should. Last time I checked my fuel consumption on a 150 mile cruise - it was getting around 16.5 MPG and that was some spirited and very mountainous and curvy roads that snake through our country side here.

Fellas the fact of the matter is nowdays 10s is not even that fast with the technology that is out there. 8s are more the norm now for really fast cars. It will not be long before you see 50% of the cars at tracks and such running 9/8s. The head designs nowdays make it all possible. Throw on a power adder and your well into the 9s.

Take a look at some of the LS motors with turbos on them....8s! Keep in mind the TPI design is nearly 20 year old technology. That is like comparing my radio shack tandy computer of 1986 to my laptop I am on now.

Please do not get me wrong - I too love our cars and not knocking them....but realize that the "old stigma" of not streetable and being in the 10s has LONG passed.

A friend of mine saw our cars run that used to have the national record in their camaro back in the early 80s. His best time ever was in the mid 11s in a full out racecar. He just shook his head and laughed. He said if we could have produced results like that back in the day we would be multi-millionaires selling those heads/technology.

Interesting topic and perception that people have....

 

Please do not get me wrong - I too love our cars and not knocking them....but realize that the "old stigma" of not streetable and being in the 10s has LONG passed.

It has passed but it did not bring the GEN I s.b.c. with it.
A bottom 10sec L98 all motor with a 4+3 trans is a fairy tale

 

 

yes thats the one a blue camaro ,i think 86 with a stock bottom end and no nos/blower it ran 10.40 in the otr mile.it was only a 305 auto, thats what you call getting the combination just right. 10 secs out of a 305 ,thats unheard of.if i remember right he credits the worked afr heads and custom reed cam for the huge power gains.

 

However, this thread's limitation was keeping the stock L98 in place. My L98 has everything done short of nitrous or FI, and it is only reliably in the 12's.

 

its all in the ways your parts match up and the way you tune it.i seen guys with 383 strokers with good heads and a huge cam, that was as slow as hell.if you match your heads cam intake and computer tune torque converter/clutch and rear gears you can take a tpi into the high 10 second range.imo

 

It's entirely possible to do, not with the stock 4+3 and long tube runner set-up, but there are lots of 10 second daily drivers out there.

The shop I work has a couple LT1 F-bodies that run sub 10.50 and see 7,000-10,000 miles a year, with AC, cruise, power windows, etc...

There's probably 20 LSX cars that we've worked on that are sub 10.50 cars and are nearly as streetable as they were stock.

Look at the new ZO6. A handful of them are in the 10's with very little mods, if any. I think there's a forum member who went into the 10.80's with one that was 100% stock sans drag radials.

The thing that is holding you back is the 4+3, and then getting the car to hook the power. If you're willing to go with an automatic, and do some tasteful weight reduction, I really don't see why a well prepped car on a well prepped track wouldn't go into the 10's with 450-500 RWHP.

Let's look at some forum members for example. Jonecap has an LT4 Corvette that is nearly stock. Mild mods, 329 RWHP / 325 RWTQ. His car, with him behind the wheel just flat out works. His best time to date is a 12.05 @ 115. With a 150 HP shot of nitrous, he'd be deep 11's maybe even touch the 10's. That's an example of a car that works.

Now, let's look at my car. It's pretty much the same as Jonecap's car mod wise. Headers, 4.10 gears, and tires; the big difference is that I'm on the bottle. On nitrous, I'm making more power than he is (355 to his 329) and a ton more torque (I make about 600 RWTQ, compared to his ~330). Just by looking at the information, you'd think I'd be able to run away if he and I were to race. Not exactly, in fact not even close. He kills me, every time. From a roll, from a dig, backwards, forwards, left right, up hill, down hill, it doesn't matter. He beats me every time. My best time to date is a 12.41 @ 111. Almost 1/2 a second and 4 MPH slower.

It's all in the combo man. If you can make the horse power, the driver, and the car all work together, it can be done.

I think what you are really asking is if an L98 is capable of making 10 second power. I don't think so, if you retain the long tube runner set-up. If you are willing to ditch the long tube runner, then maybe. I also don't think it's possible without a power adder. The 25+ cars that I mentioned above, the ones that run sub 10.50's and still have AC, everyone of them is a power adder car. Nitrous, super charger, or turbo.

If you are dead set on keeping the long tube runner set up, here's how I would go about trying to get it into the 10's:

Get the biggest TPI pieces you can find. Whether after market or stock, port the crap out of them and get as much flow as you can. I might even consider trying to find 10 of the same piece (10 sets of AS&M runners for example) and have them all sonic checked for thickness. Choose the one that is going to allow the greatest porting and greatest flow.

Build one killer 355 short block. Something that will take some massive abuse. Thick crown forged pistons, killer rods, etc...

The heads are tougher. I'd probably do some AFR 195's. Your building a motor that will probably make peak power below 5200, so a big head will probably hurt more than help.

Nothing crazy on the cam. Again, the chances of you making power above 5200-5500 is slim, even with the hogged to Hell TPI stuff.

And then nitrous the crap out of it. It'll be hard to launch anyway, so maybe a small shot in first gear, 50 HP or so. Then, as you shift to second grab another 100 HP of nitrous. When you bang third, bring in another 100 HP for a total of 250. Maybe even up the third stage to a 150 shot for a total of 300.

You're going to run out of gear in 4th, you'll either end up shifting to 5th in the 1/4, or dropping the rear gear down into the 2.7XX range. With a 2.7XX gear, launching the car will be hard. If you do manage to get it to dead hook, that's an astronomical load on everything. It almost makes me sick thinking about it.

So, assuming you could hook it with the high gear, assuming your 4+3 didn't wad up like a pretzel, and assuming the car is working properly; you might be able to get it done.

That's a whole lot of ASSuming, and it would ultimately be much easier if you were willing to swap out intakes and transmissions. To each his own though, if a 10 second TPI 4+3 is your thing, go make it happen. Then come back in here and let us know how you did it.

 

As already stated, the 4+3 is going to be your weak link. Then the dana 44 for reliable service.
If you are going to try this do you have emissions inspections? If so, consider a blower or nitrous. Even then low 10's are going to be tough.
Also, as said earlier, what makes a L98? When you start talking 434 etc. thats not even a factory block. In reality, there will not be much left of the orig. engine to run low 10's

 

[QUOTE
If you are dead set on keeping the long tube runner set up, here's how I would go about trying to get it into the 10's:

Get the biggest TPI pieces you can find. Whether after market or stock, port the crap out of them and get as much flow as you can. I might even consider trying to find 10 of the same piece (10 sets of AS&M runners for example) and have them all sonic checked for thickness. Choose the one that is going to allow the greatest porting and greatest flow.[/QUOTE]

well if you want the best long tube runner set up with the most potential you need to buy the first intake!
they rev out to 6,000 rpm with a problem in the world!!!
www.firstfuelinjections.com
base can be ported to 1207 with some modding and the runners are a 1.75 " inner diameter of the shelf and can be ported rite out to a huge 1.9 " diameter.
also the inner radaius on the first runners in around 6 " or so.
so there you go.
there is a seroius tpi intake with out a doubt...
cheers
tyson

 

Unless you have a modded Z06.