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My 96LT4 just backfired, stuttered, wheezed and shut down on the way home today. I was driving through my neighborhood slowly. I can start it up with some difficulty, but it dies quickly, within seconds, either on it's own or when I try to let the clutch out to get going. Any ideas? I have a Walbro fuel pump, and I think I hear it run when I turn on the key. Where do I start?? Thanks for any advice.
Hey! I just went out and it started up and idled. Now what's up? I don't know if this scares me more, something wrong or something wrong intermitantly. I will let it idle a bit then take it for a ride. Hopefully I won't be walking home.
I've never had a coil go out on a vette, but the symptoms you're describing point directly to a bad coil. Runs when it's cool, then shuts down when it get warmer.
I have a 96 LT-1 and had the same symptoms, 1st it was the Opti, 2nd was the Crank Position Sensor connection. CPS is on the passenger side of the car waaaay down on the cam chain cover. I'd jiggle the connector and it would run, for awhile.
Guys, I wimped out and didn't take it for a ride, too scared of it dying on the road and not being able to get back. Tomorrow, I will get some assistance from a friend and try to get it out. I have a new opti, so i hope that isn't it, but with those things, you never know. I will try to make sure the CPS is on tight. I just had new bearings put in, so maybe something was jostled. It idled great in my garage this afternoon though! I will report back tomorrow. Thanks again.
Just got back from Auto Zone over lunch, the car seems to be running OK. They found 4 codes when they ran it...
P0372: Voltage signal from high resolution timing signal "A" has too few pulses.
P0152: Input voltage from O2 sensor 1 in bank 2 is too high for current operating conditions
P0102: Mass air inflow input is lower than expected for current operating conditions.
P1371: Ignition coil- cylinder 1- early activation fault
I assume these things aren't happening now, as the car runs OK. Should I disconnect battery and see if that clears them? Actually I am not sure what clears codes on these cars. Any idea what may be going on here???
The car did the same thing last night on the way home, it ran rough for a second, then died. I could restart it, but it would either die again, or run for a second, then die. And about 1 mile from my house, it stayed running and drove like nothing was wrong. Is it my opti? What should I check now. When it is running good, I doubt I'll find anything, and when it runs bad, I am stuck on the road. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
The car did the same thing last night on the way home, it ran rough for a second, then died. I could restart it, but it would either die again, or run for a second, then die. And about 1 mile from my house, it stayed running and drove like nothing was wrong. Is it my opti? What should I check now. When it is running good, I doubt I'll find anything, and when it runs bad, I am stuck on the road. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
The is exactly how my car acted when both opti's were dying.
my lt4 had the exact same symptom once,but went away for a couple months.it was the opti.it went out on my brother and he had the car towed on a roll back.i thanked my bro for using a rollback but the front end was still messed up.i couldnt believe the car ran that long when i disassembled the opti.it fell apart when i removed the cap.i put a gm replacement on it because the msd was still fairly new.i would consider one now because ive heard good things about them.maybe someone with an msd will chime in.good luck.junior
You said you recently replaced your OPTI, what unit?
When I changed mine 6 months ago I was a dumb %&! and rushed. Needless to say I did not put the cap on tight. Possible yours could be a little loose and rotar is not touching connectors...different atmospheric conditions would change properties of the spark. Plus heat will cause the gap to expand ever so much. Probably a long shot but odds are a new opti failing are remote, but it does happen.
Mine is the replacement GM one, installed last year, can't have more than couple thousand miles on it. I suspect it's the problem as well. Is there any way to check these without tearing the front of the motor out to get to it to visually inspect it?
If I need a new one, I've seen the new version MSD puts out, they are pricey, but if they hold up better than the crap GM ones....