Post your lo-buck fixit methods/tools
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Post your lo-buck fixit methods/tools
Ok, laugh...A lot. 
As far as an effective way to bleed the clutch slave-
1) Uopn filling the ZF with fluid today it dawned on me the quart bottle (of Pennzoil syncromesh trans fluid) and the $8 hand pump (both from Pep Boys) that screws on top would be perfect for force bleeding from the slave up. Comes with the clear flexible plastic tube already, draws no air in-To me seems the cheapest fastest way to do it. Clean out the bottle and fill with DOT3 and pump away.
2) Only 17mm socket I could find was at Sears, $40 for a 4 piece set. Wouldnt clear the ZR1 manifolds anyway. SO....
Bought an $8.99 Crafstman allenwrench (17mm), stuck a wrench around it and muscled it off. If need be use a pipe or jack handle over the wrench for leverage. .
As far as an effective way to bleed the clutch slave-
1) Uopn filling the ZF with fluid today it dawned on me the quart bottle (of Pennzoil syncromesh trans fluid) and the $8 hand pump (both from Pep Boys) that screws on top would be perfect for force bleeding from the slave up. Comes with the clear flexible plastic tube already, draws no air in-To me seems the cheapest fastest way to do it. Clean out the bottle and fill with DOT3 and pump away.
2) Only 17mm socket I could find was at Sears, $40 for a 4 piece set. Wouldnt clear the ZR1 manifolds anyway. SO....
Bought an $8.99 Crafstman allenwrench (17mm), stuck a wrench around it and muscled it off. If need be use a pipe or jack handle over the wrench for leverage. .
Last edited by cv67; Jul 29, 2007 at 11:46 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 971
Likes: 0
From: Rockwood TN
When bleeding brakes I use a quart mason jar with a little new fluid and some clear rubber hose to bleed and flush the brake system just attach the rubber hose to the brake bleeder loosen slightly and slowly pump the brakes when you see clear fluid coming out of the tube tighten and go to the next brake. Oh almost forgot to mention always make sure the end of the rubber hose is submerged in brake fluid in the jar.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
1. I keep a bungee cord in my toolbox. When I'm working on something that is under wires and hoses I lasso them and secure them out of the way.
2. I save the longest plug wire and a plug whenever I change them.
3. I've set the serpintine belt (new) in the sun until warm to get that little extra bit of clearance when installing.
4. I use two 2"x10"x3' boards as helpers for my Rhino ramps. This keeps the air dam from scooting the ramps as I drive on.
2. I save the longest plug wire and a plug whenever I change them.
3. I've set the serpintine belt (new) in the sun until warm to get that little extra bit of clearance when installing.
4. I use two 2"x10"x3' boards as helpers for my Rhino ramps. This keeps the air dam from scooting the ramps as I drive on.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,763
Likes: 2
From: Connectivette
EGR Clamp...
Took a dremel to the crimp area of the clamp, put heat to it to straighten out said crimp area, drilled holes through both ends and ran a small bolt through it for easier removal/installation..
Still a PITA to get your hands in there however
Took a dremel to the crimp area of the clamp, put heat to it to straighten out said crimp area, drilled holes through both ends and ran a small bolt through it for easier removal/installation..
Still a PITA to get your hands in there however
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 936
Likes: 2
From: Tyrone PA
I took off my airdam (only 2 nuts to remove and the MAF sensor clamps), then I sawzalled a rectangular shaped hole in the top of my radiator shroud, between the radiator and condenser. Now I can remove my airdam, use a shop-vac to suck the leaves and bags and stuff out, then replace the airdam and everything looks original.
Last edited by dan0617; Jul 30, 2007 at 08:36 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 9
From: '88 TPI L98/HotCam Powell, Ohio
Istead of cutting my airbox lid or buying a new "open" lid I removed the cover and used Black duct tape to seal the filter base to the airbox. Cheap and it's hard to see.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 18
From: Los Angeles California
I fixed the dreaded sagging door trim panels with a couple of well-placed wire ties. The fix is permanent and easy, the sagging is 100% gone and those trim panels are stiff and firmly in place, and the fix is completely impossible to see unless you remove the door weatherstrip. I'll post a thread with pics.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 3
From: Newark, New Jersey
wish i knew about this when i changed mine last year
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Found at sears/osh/sometimes harbor frieight-1/4 and 3/8" Flexible extensions, looks like a cable. Great for TPI runner bolts, hard to get at spark plugs, L98 dist cap bolts.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 682
From: Marlboro country MA
I had a problem with the switch in the passenger door not fully making contact when the door was fully closed. Problem was fixed for $0.01 - I taped a penny to the inside of the door where the switch makes contact. This has to be the cheapest fix of all. 
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 5
From: The Pines South Jersey
For installing spark plugs, I have 2 favorite goodies -
an old straight boot from a set of accel wires circa 1980, and a beefier straight boot from a set of ford wires for an inline 6. almost always use the accel boot
a little dab of dielectric grease and on they go, I get a better feel of the threads with the old boot than I do with a piece of hose.
an old straight boot from a set of accel wires circa 1980, and a beefier straight boot from a set of ford wires for an inline 6. almost always use the accel boot
a little dab of dielectric grease and on they go, I get a better feel of the threads with the old boot than I do with a piece of hose.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh Pa
haha i did the same thing..lol. until i just bought a new one.. then i noticed that you can adjust them.. the center pulls out. they come fully extended. someone must have closed the seatbelt in the door.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,193
Likes: 16
My rear view mirror kept flopping around. Drilled a small hole in the top of the joint and put a screw in it, tightened it down, no more flop.
My sun visors where flopping around...removed them.
My door panel was flopping around. Shot two screws right through the top of them into the door, no more flopping.
Yes, a lot of flopping going on here. Or used to be.
My sun visors where flopping around...removed them.
My door panel was flopping around. Shot two screws right through the top of them into the door, no more flopping.
Yes, a lot of flopping going on here. Or used to be.
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
Heh, seems like it would get really dirty that way!
I fixed the dreaded sagging door trim panels with a couple of well-placed wire ties. The fix is permanent and easy, the sagging is 100% gone and those trim panels are stiff and firmly in place, and the fix is completely impossible to see unless you remove the door weatherstrip. I'll post a thread with pics.
I fixed the dreaded sagging door trim panels with a couple of well-placed wire ties. The fix is permanent and easy, the sagging is 100% gone and those trim panels are stiff and firmly in place, and the fix is completely impossible to see unless you remove the door weatherstrip. I'll post a thread with pics.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ght=door+panel
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,270
Likes: 26
From: Winchester VA
Cruise-In V Veteran
A steering wheel puller to remove a hub from a blown bearing (90 3-series...it got worse from this point, much worse)
Here is some threaded rod with a couple nuts to install damper. The afteramrket crank had the threads much deeper in the snout and a regular installer would not work.
And my valve covers were hitting the wiper motor, so I cut off the corner and used tin snips and a hammer to cut a couple pieces of sheetmetal and attached them to the cover with JB Weld and RTV. Never took a pic of that mastery.
Here is some threaded rod with a couple nuts to install damper. The afteramrket crank had the threads much deeper in the snout and a regular installer would not work.
And my valve covers were hitting the wiper motor, so I cut off the corner and used tin snips and a hammer to cut a couple pieces of sheetmetal and attached them to the cover with JB Weld and RTV. Never took a pic of that mastery.