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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
They are a good shock.
Some guys have had to be a little creative to get the rears to bolt up.
You have to have some experience, or know someone who does, in order to properly set up a dual-adjustable shock for your car/driving style/conditions. Just be forewarned.
I have Koni Sports, but it was a toss-up between them and the QA-1's when it was time to order.
They are a good shock.
Some guys have had to be a little creative to get the rears to bolt up.
You have to have some experience, or know someone who does, in order to properly set up a dual-adjustable shock for your car/driving style/conditions. Just be forewarned.
I have Koni Sports, but it was a toss-up between them and the QA-1's when it was time to order.
When I ordered my QA1's (from Jegs) I spoke to a tech @ Naaske, who was very familiar w/ these shocks on C4's. He said for spirited street driving & occasional track, set the front to 6 & the rears to 4. Did that and haven't adjusted them since...settings are PERFECT.
I was reading a few websites about the QA1 shocks on vettes, and was told that if the car is lowered, the stock size shocks may bottom if the car is driven hard. The solution is to call QA1, and they will build a shock for your car. I use this car for hillclimbs so it is driven very hard (not street legal). When the car is on the track (track days) the bilstiens that are on it work great, but when incountering a hill with a high crown or ripples in the road, the gets airborn very easy. Thanks for all the replies.
Joe
I was reading a few websites about the QA1 shocks on vettes, and was told that if the car is lowered, the stock size shocks may bottom if the car is driven hard. The solution is to call QA1, and they will build a shock for your car.
Because my car is lowered I used the 63-82 fronts - which have more travel. Was told (tech @ Naaske) that was the way to go and have had no "bottoming" problems. Have the correct year shocks on the rear and they're fine.
What about the difference between the single and double adjustable QA1's? Is the extra expense to have the doubles worth it? How much more difficult are these to dial in? What is the advantage to adjusting both compression and rebound?
What about the difference between the single and double adjustable QA1's? Is the extra expense to have the doubles worth it? How much more difficult are these to dial in? What is the advantage to adjusting both compression and rebound?
Good question.
The doubles weren't even offered when I bought mine.
FWIW, the singles are more than up to the task for my driving needs. Can't even imagine having another **** to tweak although I'm sure there are some benefits from being able to adjust both separately.
I'm not sure if these are the correct shocks but I found them on Summits web site. It looks like the double adjustable are twice the price. $560 for a set of single adjustable vs $1200 for a set of double adjustable is a huge difference. They had better be worth it. Is the adjustments the only difference between these two? Are they built the same otherwise? Does anyone know if these are the correct shocks for coil overs? Mo has different numbers on his site.
Single
Front HAL-TC3014P $140 ea
Rear HAL-TC3024P $140 ea
Double
Front HAL-DTC3014P $300 ea
Rear HAL-DTC3024P $300 ea
From: 2003 Points Champ Great Lakes Corvette Challenge; 2006/2007 Winner MSD True Street
Originally Posted by JEFNLSA
Good question.
The doubles weren't even offered when I bought mine.
FWIW, the singles are more than up to the task for my driving needs. Can't even imagine having another **** to tweak although I'm sure there are some benefits from being able to adjust both separately.
Drag guys like the dual.
For example: The fronts would be set to 90/10.
this would mean that the push up would be maxed but the compression down would be very stiff/slow allowing for max transfer of wieght to the back but not bouncing when the fronts come back down.
The rears would be set at 90/90.
The rear would squat slow/stiff but would also rebound slow allowing for max time on the tires.
For example: The fronts would be set to 90/10.
this would mean that the push up would be maxed but the compression down would be very stiff/slow allowing for max transfer of wieght to the back but not bouncing when the fronts come back down.
The rears would be set at 90/90.
The rear would squat slow/stiff but would also rebound slow allowing for max time on the tires.
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Originally Posted by JEFNLSA
When I ordered my QA1's (from Jegs) I spoke to a tech @ Naaske, who was very familiar w/ these shocks on C4's. He said for spirited street driving & occasional track, set the front to 6 & the rears to 4. Did that and haven't adjusted them since...settings are PERFECT.
Single adjustables like yours are easy to set up....even I can do it.
I was talking about units that are adjustable for compression and rebound damping.
They are more difficult, 88, because of the many combinations possible and the fact that the "perfect" rebound setting can be pretty much screwed up by having a compression setting wrong and visa versa. It takes experience (that most of us don't have) to know which setting you've got right and which you have wrong.
Most guys (see jefnsla's post, above) rely on someone else's recommendations because they are either afraid to try different settings or don't know what to look for if they did. Just like I said in my original post.