89 Guage Cluster.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Montreal Quebec
89 Guage Cluster.
My 89 Guage Cluster lights are bright on the left hand side of the cluster and a little less bright on the right half of the Cluster. The Cluster was repaired once before. Has anyone seen this before?? Can I fix the right hand side dim light problem myself or do I have to send the Cluster out for repair again?? Thanks for the help.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,960
Likes: 707
From: WI
It could just be the light bulbs. 3 of 4 were burned out on mine when I got the car, changing them is not to tough. Here is a guide:
http://batee.com/corvette/dcrg/lightbulb.shtml
There is some troubleshooting at the site to witch may help.
http://batee.com/corvette/dcrg/lightbulb.shtml
There is some troubleshooting at the site to witch may help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
Weak Connections @ The Bulb.
I had a problem that was just like this!
There 4 main bulbs that back light all the dash panels. What happend to mine was related to the push and twist socket for 2 of the bulbs. These bulbs fit into removable sockets which twist into place - if you remove the socket you'll see that there are to small contact points where the bulbs get their power from the board. The conact points and get loose/weak and voltage is reduced to the bulb causing a dim look. You can clean the contact points with and eraser or dollar bill and reinstall them. I had one of these sockets actually crack so never made good pressure or contact. I just soldered the socket's contacts to panel and I've never had another problem with them.
Note: Do not touch these 4 bulbs without gloves on....the oils in your skin will cause premature bulb failure. These bulbs are big $.
There 4 main bulbs that back light all the dash panels. What happend to mine was related to the push and twist socket for 2 of the bulbs. These bulbs fit into removable sockets which twist into place - if you remove the socket you'll see that there are to small contact points where the bulbs get their power from the board. The conact points and get loose/weak and voltage is reduced to the bulb causing a dim look. You can clean the contact points with and eraser or dollar bill and reinstall them. I had one of these sockets actually crack so never made good pressure or contact. I just soldered the socket's contacts to panel and I've never had another problem with them.
Note: Do not touch these 4 bulbs without gloves on....the oils in your skin will cause premature bulb failure. These bulbs are big $.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
Rick: I had a similiar problem with my 89. A forum member suggested that I clean the main bulkhead connector (located on firewall just behind battery). I removed the connector and what mess. There was black gook in the contact points. I cleaned all this up and no problem after re-assembly.
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
I realize this is an old thread, but this black goo you talk about, what was that?
I have a friend with a 90 vert wich I´m trying to help diagnose a tach problem.
How did you open up the bulkhead connector?
I only seem to be able to take the cap off the larger/upper part of the connector, then I only see a bunch of wires wich seem to be stuck in this black goo.
Not really sure if I would get everything back together.
On my 91 they put a string of black "isolation" on the outside.
That I will not remove since mine doesn´t have problems.
Didn´t find anything in the "bible" on how to remove the connector.
Found it: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...s-perhaps.html
post 14
I have a friend with a 90 vert wich I´m trying to help diagnose a tach problem.
How did you open up the bulkhead connector?
I only seem to be able to take the cap off the larger/upper part of the connector, then I only see a bunch of wires wich seem to be stuck in this black goo.
Not really sure if I would get everything back together.
On my 91 they put a string of black "isolation" on the outside.
That I will not remove since mine doesn´t have problems.
Didn´t find anything in the "bible" on how to remove the connector.
Found it: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...s-perhaps.html
post 14
Last edited by vette079; Dec 13, 2008 at 07:20 AM. Reason: found answer
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
vette079: You are asking some questions that will take me back in time.....and my ole memory "ain't" what it used to be.
As for the black goo, my guess is that it was a sealer that was supposed to protect the contacts from corrosion.
As for removing the connector, I recall there was a 5/16 hex head bolt in the center of the plastic cover of the connector. You remove this bolt and gently pull (and rock) the wire harness toward the front of the car and it will come free. Inside the connector, you will find a "mell of a hess"!!!
Cleaning the contacts was a bitch and it was made easier to drink a few Bud Lites. I used cotton swabs soaked in Gumout Injector cleaner to clean each connector.....and yes it took some time. After you get the contacts cleaned (both ends), coat the contacts with Oxi-Guard. This coating process is made easy by using some tooth picks with a small goob of the Oxi-Guard on the tip......place the goo on the contact surfaces. You get this from Home Depot or Lowe's in the electrical departartment. It comes in a little plastic tube and prevents corrosion on electrical contacts.
Good luck on this and let me know if you need more help
As for the black goo, my guess is that it was a sealer that was supposed to protect the contacts from corrosion.
As for removing the connector, I recall there was a 5/16 hex head bolt in the center of the plastic cover of the connector. You remove this bolt and gently pull (and rock) the wire harness toward the front of the car and it will come free. Inside the connector, you will find a "mell of a hess"!!!
Cleaning the contacts was a bitch and it was made easier to drink a few Bud Lites. I used cotton swabs soaked in Gumout Injector cleaner to clean each connector.....and yes it took some time. After you get the contacts cleaned (both ends), coat the contacts with Oxi-Guard. This coating process is made easy by using some tooth picks with a small goob of the Oxi-Guard on the tip......place the goo on the contact surfaces. You get this from Home Depot or Lowe's in the electrical departartment. It comes in a little plastic tube and prevents corrosion on electrical contacts.
Good luck on this and let me know if you need more help
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
OK, I get the picture. I´ll have a hard time finding Bud lights here in Sweden, but since I´m from the Netherlands originally I will go on the Heineken´s instead.
Should have the same effect, at least.
Same goes for Home depot, but I´ll be creative and find something else here. I know now how to loosen the connector and what to protect the contacts with, that´s the most important.
Thanks, and I´ll let you know how it turns out.
Can take a month, because I have some other stuff to do first.
Should have the same effect, at least.
Same goes for Home depot, but I´ll be creative and find something else here. I know now how to loosen the connector and what to protect the contacts with, that´s the most important.
Thanks, and I´ll let you know how it turns out.
Can take a month, because I have some other stuff to do first.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
I am not sure where Sweden is located.....is it in Northern or West Alabama 
I think the Heineken would be an acceptable substitute for the Bud Lite. As for the Oxi-Guard, use any paste material that will prevent future corrosion in the brass connections.
After you open the connection, you should remove any corrosion using a small piece of 400 grit wet sand paper. Be careful not to "overdo" the cleaning of the contact points.
I hope you find this information helpful and Merry Christmas!
I think the Heineken would be an acceptable substitute for the Bud Lite. As for the Oxi-Guard, use any paste material that will prevent future corrosion in the brass connections.
After you open the connection, you should remove any corrosion using a small piece of 400 grit wet sand paper. Be careful not to "overdo" the cleaning of the contact points.
I hope you find this information helpful and Merry Christmas!
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Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 637
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This is information that is worth money, that´s why I´ll invest some of it in a few Heinekens. 
Don´t know why I fled to Sweden from the Netherlands, would be more suitable for me to move to Holland (Michigan that is) since I would feel more at home there. Only 435 miles from you.
Didn´t get further then getting a Vette here.
Thanks for the help and Merry Christmas to you and your family too.
Don´t know why I fled to Sweden from the Netherlands, would be more suitable for me to move to Holland (Michigan that is) since I would feel more at home there. Only 435 miles from you.
Didn´t get further then getting a Vette here.
Thanks for the help and Merry Christmas to you and your family too.