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I want to replace the coolant temp (ECM)sensor. What do you use to seal the threads and still maintain a ground? Thanks
I would never use any type of tape on a sensor I want to ground through the threads. It may work fine if you don't use too much, but... If the threads of a (new) sensor don't have a sealant pre-applied, I would use liquid Teflon or another good pipe thread sealant or "dope". A paste or liquid is much less likely to prevent a metal to metal contact necessary for a good ground.
The replacement sensor came with some type of white sealer already on it. It looks like Teflon tape but it is not tape-like;more like a dried paste. I will tighten it down enough to get the contact needed for a good ground. You guys are the best. Thanks again.
Barry
I would never use any type of tape on a sensor I want to ground through the threads. It may work fine if you don't use too much, but... If the threads of a (new) sensor don't have a sealant pre-applied, I would use liquid Teflon or another good pipe thread sealant or "dope". A paste or liquid is much less likely to prevent a metal to metal contact necessary for a good ground.
RACE ON!!!
That sensor is not grounded through the threads.
The factory service manual recommends a teflon sealer for the sensor's threads, and specifies a torque of 17-ft lbs if I'm remembering correctly (double check this!!!).
Out of curiousity, why are you replacing the sensor? There is so little to the sensor that I would venture to say it is very unlikely it has failed. It is far more likely for the wiring going into it to fail; think of the plastic connector going into it, and how much heat it experiences as the water pump heat cycles. Over time my connector warped so badly that it jumped in and out of contact, making the engine go crazy, for example.
If you're just replacing this sensor because you're in the middle of replacing the water pump, then ignore me.
The car is a 1990 and it's CTS is an origional piece with 186,000 miles. I had a few extra dollars and wanted to do some PM. The connector looks great. Thanks for reminding me to check it out though. I have turned nearly every nut and bolt on this car so this was one area that I have never touched. I'm just trying to keep it in the best shape that I can so it will last another 186,000. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the CTS is a very important little piece for the computer to adjust properly. The car is bone stock except for the Raptor Trans and 2600 stall converter. The operating temps are always in the 220 -240 degree range. Thanks for all of your input. I feel honored that the greats of the forum have responded to my question. I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy.......
Barry
The car is a 1990 and it's CTS is an origional piece with 186,000 miles. I had a few extra dollars and wanted to do some PM. The connector looks great. Thanks for reminding me to check it out though. I have turned nearly every nut and bolt on this car so this was one area that I have never touched. I'm just trying to keep it in the best shape that I can so it will last another 186,000. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the CTS is a very important little piece for the computer to adjust properly. The car is bone stock except for the Raptor Trans and 2600 stall converter. The operating temps are always in the 220 -240 degree range. Thanks for all of your input. I feel honored that the greats of the forum have responded to my question. I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy.......
Barry
Do your readings seem accurate? Honestly, it's a whole lot of work to drain to coolant to get that bugger out, and it probably isn't necessary. If it ain't broke... you know. Who's to say that the new one will be calibrated any better anyway. It's just a simple resistor made of thick metal, so in theory there's nothing to wear out on it unless your coolant is made of nitric acid.
For anyone who is wondering, the analog sensor is grounded through its threads while the digital sensor is not, even though the sensors themselves are I think identical. That's why the analog has one wire and the digital has two; the other wire on the digital goes to a ground pin directly on the PCM. So seal the heck out of it, no worries. My sensor did not come with any coating on the threads at all; if yours doesn't, you'll have one wet engine bay if you don't seal it.
You're right about the ECT circuit having an unusually huge influence on how the engine runs for how simple it is, but in your scenario I would just leave it alone and not bother it, and spend your time driving the car and having fun instead.
Edit: Jesus Christ, I just looked at some of your all's post-per-day ratios. And I thought I spent too much time on here!
Last edited by LouisvilleLT4; Aug 15, 2007 at 02:23 PM.