has anyone used McJacks headers? did they fit well ?

 

Never heard of them. Got a link?

 

sure do
http://www.vetteheaders.com/servlet/...rvette+Headers

 

I know Jack. The headers are not all that bad... are they as good as say, Exotic muscle? I don't think so, but they are mucho cheaper.

 

Hmmmmm.....don't know but Hedman Elites are $200 less and we know they fit.

 

oh, these will fit. no question about that.

I used to so some work for Jack a couple years ago. Pretty cool guy.

 

for long tubes???

 

Just took a look at their site. They look nice, but surely are not anywhere close to being tuned headers, such as Hooker Suoer Comps.
Maybe to some it doesn't matter, but through past experience, tuned is the only way to go, IMHO. Take a look at the length of #2 primary tube compared to #8. No comparison. And Hookers are not that much more expensive. Just my 2 cents worth.

Rich K

 

I have only seen super comps in shorties, do they make long tubes?
I now E/M, TPIS make long tubes for 93 who else does?

 

Looks like the passenger side plugs would be a pita to change with those.

 

I just want Hedman to come out with a set of LTs with the LT1/4 style air fittings.... is that too much to ask??

 

yes, actually $220 cheaper with 14 ga tubing and 3/8" flange.

 

Don't see anything on their site for an LT car.

 

Those long tubes sure look like my Hedman Elites. Does Hedman build these for Jack.

 

I just posted on a different thread some unsettling news about Hooker SC's, at least to me since they used to be my header of choice. According to a Summit salesman, and comparing along with him in a catalog, the Hooker SC's are 3/4 length primaries, I think 26" as opposed to 30". So will they work as a true dual setup? I think I saw a post where you can get collecter extenders to get them to work, but that would throw the torque curve way off, combined with the short primaries. Someone plz. correct me if I am wrong. I suppose it depends on the heads, intake, cam, and tune. Any help appreciated.

Rich K

 

what is the differece between L98 headers and LT1 headers? is it just the air tube fitting? if you were eliminating the air system could you use L98 headers on a LT engine?

 

Excellent question right there, I'm not fully sure. Is it a fitment issue?

 

You also have Melrose and Stainless Works to choose from. I think they are all about the same quality and cost.

 

Melrose headers fit great and for the rest of the system you can get the Random Technology dual exhaust.

The only difference between L98/LT1/4 headers from Melrose is the AIR fittings. I believe that is also true for TPiS and Hooker, but I can not say say that without a doubt.

 

The short answer is yes. For example the Hooker 2151 super comp longtubes that everyone loves to install were designed for the L98 but can be made to fit an LT1, or in my case an LT4. Here are the changes I had to make to make them work:

-Grind a little bump off of the frame that hit one of the primaries. No biggie.

-Grind about 1 mm off the edge of the motor mounts, and reverse the motor mount bolts so the primaries do not hit.

-Stretch by hand the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder until they were out of the way of one of the primaries.

-Eliminate the AIR system and cats. (I don't have EGR, since it's an LT4)

-Pay an exhaust shop $50 to block off the O2 bung on one of the primaries, and put two more O2 bungs farther down on the collectors.

-Eliminate the stock spark plug wire holders, use wire ties and plug wire separators instead.

-Eliminate the alternator brace and instead secure the alternator to the accessory brace with a bolt and some washers.

-Re-use two of the stock exhaust manifold bolts (the ones with studs on the end) so that you can keep your A/C brace and your oil dipstick. To reuse stock bolts you must use spacers between the bolt and the header, but luckily the proper spacers were included with the headers.

-Grind a very small amount off the analog ECT sensor to allow the headers to be fed in from the bottom.

-Purchase an O2 sensor wire to extend the driver's side O2 sensor wire.

-Pay an exhaust shop another $150 to cut off the ends of your stock exhaust, and then weld flanged expanders on so that it mates with the headers.

-You no longer have bungs for the rear O2 sensors, so you must now wire up an O2 simulator to trick the computer into thinking there are still cats. If you do not, fuel trim will be adjusted slightly by the computer to try to get the cats working better, according to the FSM.