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1989 Corvette, started idling eratically. Would idle to high for awhile, and then drop down to normal then high etc. Sometimes won't start when hot unless you hold gas to floor. Slight hesitation when hitting the throttle. Can't find any disconnected vacuum lines, sprayed wd-40 around intake gasket with no idle change, Fuel pressure was a solid 38 lbs going over 40 lbs when you hit the gas. Short of a compression test there is no oil in the coolant vice versa, no white smoke. New plugs cap and rotor, timing was good (was doing it before) no Check engine light.
Does the fuel pressure hold for a while after shutting down or does it drop off immediately? My regulator developed a leak and caused a major fuel leak through the vacuum line into the plenum. This caused hard starting after initial startup due to flooding. Not to mention running a bit rich. Pull the little vacuum line on the regulator and see if gas is in there (ignition off of course).
Does the fuel pressure hold for a while after shutting down or does it drop off immediately? My regulator developed a leak and caused a major fuel leak through the vacuum line into the plenum. This caused hard starting after initial startup due to flooding. Not to mention running a bit rich. Pull the little vacuum line on the regulator and see if gas is in there (ignition off of course).
The fuel pressure should drop very slowly as in a couple of lbs every 10 minutes or so. If it drops off much faster than that, then it could be the regulator, check valve in pump, or injectors.
Pull the connectors one by one with the ignition off and check the resistance with an ohmeter across the 2 terminals. Make sure that they are all near 16 or 17 ohms. Check with the motor cold and then warm to see if there is any difference. One being really different (low) than the others would be a dead give away.
Since you mentioned having to hold the pedal to the floor to start it, I would first check the injectors as described. They all should ohm very close to each other and all over 10 ohms. If one or more is way off in resistance, replace them all.
The search function can be quite useful: Search, Advanced, Archive Posts and pic section (general/tech) and go for it... plus check the C4 Tech Tips... alot of good info also...
Ohming the injectors only tells you part of the story. You won't know if they are leaking without a visual inspection under fuel pressure.
I would start by hooking up a fuel pressure guage to the fuel rail, and take a look at what the fuel pressure is doing. This will tell you if you have correct fuel pressure, and if the pressure is holding or not.
to check the injectors, pull the connectors one by one with the ignition off and check the resistance with an ohmeter across the 2 terminals. Check the injectors when cold and when hot. The resistance should be 15 ohms for each one. There should be no significant (1-2 ohms) variation between then. If there is, it is time for new injectors. Have you checked the fuel filter, bad gas, low fuel in the tank?
Time to replace the injectors, #2 and #7 are bad. there are many posts on this particular issue to review. The common thread is to get ones that are flow tested, to ensure consistency between. I am going to tackle this job as a winter project. I think I will be going with ##22 Ford injectors. they seem to be favored by some members, and I want to keep the car as close to stock as possible. I know they are Fords, but they don't have the logo on them.
Time to replace the injectors, #2 and #7 are bad. there are many posts on this particular issue to review. The common thread is to get ones that are flow tested, to ensure consistency between. I am going to tackle this job as a winter project. I think I will be going with ##22 Ford injectors. they seem to be favored by some members, and I want to keep the car as close to stock as possible. I know they are Fords, but they don't have the logo on them.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
I don't get how buying Ford injectors is staying close to stock. There are many injector manufacturers in the market place. Bosch, Rochester, Accel, Standard Motor, Etc, Etc. Stock for 1989 was Rochester which don't have a good reputation here, but mine work fine.
Y-ME: The spec for a Multec resistance is 16.5 +/- .3 ohms and all eight injectors should be very close to the same value. If you have an injector with a low resistance, that injector will inject a lower volume of fuel during the pulse width time from the ECM. Hope this is helpful.
I believe the 89 had Multec injectors which had some problems, and some reconditioning services will not rebulid them. Some post indicated the Ford #22 and #24 are close to the oem, and have been reliable. Ford is not GM (as I joked) but when I said I wanted to keep the car as stock as possible I was referring to no major modifications