Oh please stop the heat!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,152
Likes: 243
From: Northern VA
Oh please stop the heat!!
I was at Carlisle this weekend. 104* by the ext temp gauge. On top of that, my HVAC is blowing hot air through the dash vents
I did a search and I guess there are a few areas to look at including vacuum lines, programmer, flapper box, control panel etc... I am building a house and have lost my garage for a few months and my FSM is packed. I am not as concerned right now about the AC, I just need the heat to stop. How do I get to the box that has the flap to check it to see if it's open to heat? BTW, the AC has never been operational since I've owned it.
I did a search and I guess there are a few areas to look at including vacuum lines, programmer, flapper box, control panel etc... I am building a house and have lost my garage for a few months and my FSM is packed. I am not as concerned right now about the AC, I just need the heat to stop. How do I get to the box that has the flap to check it to see if it's open to heat? BTW, the AC has never been operational since I've owned it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
I'd start by unplugging the Blower Motor - nothing comes through the vents if it isn't turning.
Temp Door is accessible through the Evaporator Case which is mounted on the right side firewall. On the top left side is a module or resistor pack. Remove it and look inside to see the door. That door should move as the controls are operated between 60 and 90 (Electronic Air) or the slider is pushed from hot to cold. If not, you can try to move it with a screwdriver. Unfortunately, if whatever moves it is broken, it can flop around (especially with the Blower at Max) meaning that there isn't an easy was to keep it from moving absent a complete fix.
Door controls are accessed from the interior. Remove the hush panel on the passenger side. Electronic Air moves it with a motor - manual with a cable. Motor uses a plastic connector to the linkage - it can break. Cables of course can snap though it's usually what holds them to the slider that breaks; ie, the Control Panel. Sometimes some epoxy or super clue can fix whatever is busted.
Temp Door is accessible through the Evaporator Case which is mounted on the right side firewall. On the top left side is a module or resistor pack. Remove it and look inside to see the door. That door should move as the controls are operated between 60 and 90 (Electronic Air) or the slider is pushed from hot to cold. If not, you can try to move it with a screwdriver. Unfortunately, if whatever moves it is broken, it can flop around (especially with the Blower at Max) meaning that there isn't an easy was to keep it from moving absent a complete fix.
Door controls are accessed from the interior. Remove the hush panel on the passenger side. Electronic Air moves it with a motor - manual with a cable. Motor uses a plastic connector to the linkage - it can break. Cables of course can snap though it's usually what holds them to the slider that breaks; ie, the Control Panel. Sometimes some epoxy or super clue can fix whatever is busted.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,270
Likes: 26
From: Winchester VA
Cruise-In V Veteran
You probably have electronic climate control. If not, you can manually adjust the door from heat to fresh (or A/C) from the passenger footwell area. If you climb under the dash and look up you can see the flapper arm (the part of the door that attaches to the cable or motor) sticking out of the top of the box.
Grab that arm and move the flapper.
I am not sure how the electronic hvac actuates the doors so take this with a grain of salt.
edit: pretty much like above...we started typing at the same time and my daughter called from her dorm...she a freshman
Grab that arm and move the flapper.
I am not sure how the electronic hvac actuates the doors so take this with a grain of salt.
edit: pretty much like above...we started typing at the same time and my daughter called from her dorm...she a freshman
Last edited by Steve85; Aug 27, 2007 at 09:33 PM. Reason: lost the draw
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,270
Likes: 26
From: Winchester VA
Cruise-In V Veteran
Again 89 may be different but under the hood, passenger side on top the hvac stuff there is plug with 4 terminals, thatis the blower motor resistor...unplug it. If it still runs on "high" there is a little tab on the motor housing that is the ground...unplug it.
There is a 3 port brown plug near the frame rail and blowermotor that carries the high cuurent for high speed bypassing the resistor.
There is a 3 port brown plug near the frame rail and blowermotor that carries the high cuurent for high speed bypassing the resistor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,356
Likes: 2
From: No HOA, New Hampshire
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
Same problem, quick fix, garden hose connectors and a shut off valve in the small (5/8th inch) Bottom on mine. Works great . Be sure to use screw type hose clamps instead of the clamps that come with the garden hose connectors.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,324
Likes: 250
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
You might find some insight in here http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/AC%20Electronic.pdf
Get that AC working !!
Get that AC working !!
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