I would like to put my C4 on jackstands - all 4 wheels off the ground. I read (in "101 Projects for your C4") that you should use a floor jack to raise one side of the car then the other and avoid jacking the back using the diff.

When I look under the car I can only see a little bit of the frame - not enough to raise it safely. Am I looking in the wrong place or do I need to remove the plastic under the doors?

 

Jack at the jack points.
Search include archives and there have been alot of posts w/pics

 

Here's one jack point.

 

http://www.c4guru.com/articles/TowingJacking.pdf

 

Besides the 4 jack stands, you may want to place thick blocks of wood under the diff and front cradle for added security. I like to KNOW the car will not fall. JMO.

 

Very nice!

 

I was told when jacking the car open the hood and doors slightly to avoid damage. Anyone ever hear this also, and does this only apply to verts?

Thanks..................

 

It would seem to me that if anything, closed door would offer more support.

 

 

I have heard of this I've also had people loosen up the Targa top & rear hatch too along with all the stuff you mentioned. I asked the shop what the hell they were doing loosing all that stuff up they said it policy because they broke somebody elses vette.

 

You can get minor paint bubbles from jacking up the car in a way that twists it. Having the doors and hood shut did not change this for me. No big deal though.

Although it is counterintuitive, you are supposed to apply the jacking force to the thin frame lips that stick down. These are the weld points and they will distribute the force well and be the strongest place for the jack. You can see a frame lip all along each side, right where the plastic rocker panel covers end.

To get my car on all fours, what I do is place the jack under the side frame lip approximately right below the mirror. When you operate the jack from this position, both the front and rear tires on that side will come up at about the same rate. I place two jack stands at their lowest setting, one near the rear recommended point (place it carefully so it does not touch your brake or fuel lines!!!) and the other one forward of the front recommended point, forward of where that frame lip turns inward towards the engine. Also, this is important, place a sturdy block that fits firmly under the rear tire before setting the car down on the stands. Jack stands do not like being side loaded, and they will tip over when you try to jack up the other side of the car unless this block is in place.

Now, set that side of the car down on the jack stands. The stands should be taking the load of the car while the block is only taking the load of the rear tire. Now that that side is secure, go around to the other side and lift it, but lift it higher this time, so you can put the jack stands at their highest setting. Place the jack stands, and put a bigger block under the rear tire. Set that side down and then jack up the first side up to maximum height, replacing the first block with one that fits snugly under the rear tire at the new height. You're done, and this is a very safe arrangement since it combines blocks and stands; just make sure the e-brake is on and the car is in gear.

Lifting the front of the car only is much easier, and in my case has given me more than sufficient height for every job except for installing headers from the bottom. To lift the front, I take a $50 low-profile jack from Advanced Auto parts and roll it under the engine from the side, coming at it from behind one of the front tires. Once the jack is underneath the engine's frame support, I jack up the car and place stands on the rocker panel frame lip, and blocks under the front tires in case the stands topple over when I'm under it. I strongly recommend using blocks and not just jack stands alone; they will topple over in certain situations, I've caused them to topple on some occasions, and it's just not worth the obvious consequence if you're under the car. Also, be sure to chock the rear tires in addition to having the e-brake on and in gear when only lifting the front. You want all three safeguards, that kind of redundancy is the only thing that will protect you from the car's attempts to fall on you.

 

Yes. I got a set of new tires several months ago and the tech poped the hood, opened both doors and poped the hatch.

 

Just to reiterate every time I lift a car and before I get under it I try to shake the car. When mine is on 4 stands I get no motion whatsoever when I give the car a good push. If I notice any sort of play or motion I adjust the stands and try again.

 

Same here. Everyone seems to be deathly afraid of breaking these cars. I've never heard of that but I'm fairly new to the Corvette game.

The first time I got towed (two times so far), the tow truck guy made me roll down my windows. I think it was in case the frame twisted and made the glass hit and shatter.

The next time I came into this was when I got my tires replaced. They popped the hood, opened all the doors, and popped the hatch. Then they used four separate floor jacks for each jacking point. It looked insane.

 

just throw the jack under it and pick it up as a guy with safety in mind would.....you start doing special stuff to it and special problems will occur.....

 

Thanks so much for the clear and concise directions. Like you said it is counterintuitive to jack on the welded flanges instead of a flat frame area.

 

First make sure you have good jack stands, No cheapy brands.I was under a car once that was on pep boys cheap jack stands with the front tires off .the jack stands started to bend. I got out from under the car just be for they collapsed , almost squished my head like a grape.

 

[QUOTE=LouisvilleLT4;1561782692]You can get minor paint bubbles from jacking up the car in a way that twists it.

Okay, I've heard all the horror stories about the plastic cracking and glass breaking when you jack up your Vette but this one is brand new......want to give us your theory on how jacking up the car can make the paint bubble?