Running too cool a problem ?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Not worth much in this thread though.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 7,033
Likes: 12
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
"If the TPS has been moved". If! If I had... There was no mention of moving or changing the TPS adjustment. You are trying to create a situation here, that the OP hasn't indicated exists. As I said, if the idle is too fast because of a ECT sensor or a vacuum leak, the throttle and therefore throttle position sensor doesn't move.
Checking the TPS voltage, other than confirming that it is within the non-adjustable TPS standards and establishing that it is functioning properly, will prove nothing. Whatever the voltage, the computer accepts the lowest reading as closed throttle.
RACE ON!!!
Checking the TPS voltage, other than confirming that it is within the non-adjustable TPS standards and establishing that it is functioning properly, will prove nothing. Whatever the voltage, the computer accepts the lowest reading as closed throttle.
RACE ON!!!
for showing me repeadily how much of a troll you are. ;yesnod;
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
I reset the IAC. Didn't let it get up to running temp on the last reset. That made a difference. I did check the voltage on the TPS, .54. Followed the procedure step for step. Its for an 89, I didn't think it matters mine being a 90. Also had the base timing at 12* BDC to prevent a intermitent knock. Moved it to 8* BDC. Now the results.. It runs better, the idle does drop to 720 RPM when warm. The temperture seems to affect the idle speed like it should. Test drive results sometimes returning to 725 and then the next stop sign it stays at 900-1000. But now the knock starts to occur when it sets at a idle. 
That problem only resolved itself when I turned the timing to 12*. Will test drive to work tomorrow and watch temp, idle and knock and let y'all know tomorrow. Oh CoupeGuy, I found that canister, how can I check if it's stuck open. Thanks to all for your help. I feel I have made progress on this matter. I feel it will be something simple and yalls input keeps me trying.
That problem only resolved itself when I turned the timing to 12*. Will test drive to work tomorrow and watch temp, idle and knock and let y'all know tomorrow. Oh CoupeGuy, I found that canister, how can I check if it's stuck open. Thanks to all for your help. I feel I have made progress on this matter. I feel it will be something simple and yalls input keeps me trying.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Dads90
I reset the IAC. Didn't let it get up to running temp on the last reset. That made a difference. I did check the voltage on the TPS, .54.
Originally Posted by Dads90
Also had the base timing at 12* BDC to prevent a intermitent knock. Moved it to 8* BDC.
Originally Posted by Dads90
Now the results.. It runs better, the idle does drop to 720 RPM when warm. The temperture seems to affect the idle speed like it should. Test drive results sometimes returning to 725 and then the next stop sign it stays at 900-1000.
Originally Posted by Dads90
But now the knock starts to occur when it sets at a idle. That problem only resolved itself when I turned the timing to 12*.
That problem only resolved itself when I turned the timing to 12*.
Originally Posted by Dads90
I found that canister, how can I check if it's stuck open.
RACE ON!!!
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