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Running too cool a problem ?

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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 11:39 PM
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Default Running too cool a problem ?

I've got an 180* thermostat and a TB bypass. My problem is that the needle does'nt get up to halfway on the temp gauge. (approx 180*) Soo, it doesn't idle down. It always runs like it cold idling at about 11-1200 RPM all the way to work. Its like cruise control. I've haven't seen a thread on this problem. Other than shoving debris in the radiator are there any ideas out there ?
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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try a 195 deg thermostat, theyr pretty cheap and eazy to replace, if it doesnt work out - you can swap back.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 07:45 AM
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........assuming that the gauge is correct...the car should have dropped idle 30-45 seconds after startup.....could be an iac problem(?).....
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 07:45 AM
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You might want to do a search on this one as there is much written on this subject. I run in the low 170's on the highway for 25 miles each A.M., seven days a week with no ill effects so far. 133000 on the clock, 1996.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Da Mail Man
........assuming that the gauge is correct...the car should have dropped idle 30-45 seconds after startup.....could be an iac problem(?).....
That's what I was thinking. I've replaced my IAC twice due to this.
It just happened again yesterday, but was stuck at 1700 and was able to pull me home without touching the gas once I got up to speed
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by GIJoe
That's what I was thinking. I've replaced my IAC twice due to this.
It just happened again yesterday, but was stuck at 1700 and was able to pull me home without touching the gas once I got up to speed
.....ther are some posts relating to the "seting/re-setting" of the iac....
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Dads90
I've got an 180* thermostat and a TB bypass. My problem is that the needle does'nt get up to halfway on the temp gauge. (approx 180*) Soo, it doesn't idle down. It always runs like it cold idling at about 11-1200 RPM all the way to work. Its like cruise control. I've haven't seen a thread on this problem. Other than shoving debris in the radiator are there any ideas out there ?
The coolant temp has nothing to do with idle speed at 180°F.
The stock table in the chip " Idle Engine Speed Vs. temp "
for a 1990 is:
-4°C = 1050 rpm
...
8°C = 950 rpm
20°c = 850 rpm
32°C = 800 rpm
...
56°C = 700 rpm
68°C = 650 rpm
from 80°C to 152°C = 600 rpm

180°F are about 76°Celsius so your car should be idle at 600 and it's considered fully warmed .
-Beppe-
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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Default temp

1. your gauge is lying to you
2. your egr might be sticking open when it's use is not required, adding too much carbon into your intake manifold
3. you might be adding air through a vacuum leak, raising the idle.
It is interesting to note, that on a fuel injected porsche, they add a calibrated leak to raise the idle when cold, then compensate for it by adding a little fuel.
Meaning:
if you have a vacuum leak, the IAC may be all the way closed trying to compensate for the idle RPM when warm.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 11:05 PM
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Several months ago I did a fuel injector swap out. Even removed the intake manifold to fix an rear china wall seal leak. Started a thread about a mechanic who thought I had cracked intake, got lots of help on that. That never was the problem. All the vacuum lines are good, no leaks. I bought a new IAC and follwed Vaders instructions exactly. New CTS, I didn't replace the EGR at the time, could'nt get one quickly enough. At the time of the IAC reset I could get it to idle where it is supposed to. I'm looking at getting an infrared temperture sensor and get a reading that way.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by conv90
The coolant temp has nothing to do with idle speed at 180°F.
The stock table in the chip " Idle Engine Speed Vs. temp "
for a 1990 is:
-4°C = 1050 rpm
...
8°C = 950 rpm
20°c = 850 rpm
32°C = 800 rpm
...
56°C = 700 rpm
68°C = 650 rpm
from 80°C to 152°C = 600 rpm

180°F are about 76°Celsius so your car should be idle at 600 and it's considered fully warmed .
-Beppe-
I'm confused. I thought thats what the CTS purpose is. Doesn't it tell the ECM to compensate for cold and warm. First you say it has nothing to do with the idle speed, then I see a chart and a quote" your car should be idle at 600 and it's considered fully warmed." Mine is at 1000 rpm. I will run it in the garage tonight and get it hot and watch idle speed. Will let you all know.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 04:08 AM
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I would check for codes first. Then check the TPS voltage for the high idle. As far as the gauges goes, it sounds like it's not accurate.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
It is interesting to note, that on a fuel injected porsche, they add a calibrated leak to raise the idle when cold, then compensate for it by adding a little fuel.
It is interesting to note, that on an electronically fuel injected Corvette, (and every other EFI car I have seen), they add a calibrated leak to raise the idle, via the IAC, when cold, then compensate for it by adding a little fuel.



Originally Posted by RRT vette
Then check the TPS voltage for the high idle.
When the ECM commands a fast idle, the throttle, and therefore the TPS voltage, never changes. ECM commands and vacuum leaks don't move the throttle blades. TPS stands for Throttle POSITION Sensor.



Originally Posted by Dads90
Originally Posted by conv90
The coolant temp has nothing to do with idle speed at 180°F.
The stock table in the chip " Idle Engine Speed Vs. temp "
for a 1990 is:
-4°C = 1050 rpm
...
from 80°C to 152°C = 600 rpm

180°F are about 76°Celsius so your car should be idle at 600 and it's considered fully warmed .
-Beppe-
I'm confused. I thought thats what the CTS purpose is. Doesn't it tell the ECM to compensate for cold and warm. First you say it has nothing to do with the idle speed, then I see a chart and a quote" your car should be idle at 600 and it's considered fully warmed." Mine is at 1000 rpm. I will run it in the garage tonight and get it hot and watch idle speed. Will let you all know.
Reread the first line of Beppe's statement that you quoted. The CTS DOES tell the ECM the engine temp, and the ECM DOES regulate the idle speed until the engine is warmed up, approx 140° F - 150° F. At 180° F, as Beppe says, the ECM is only trying to maintain the programmed, warm, curb idle, not a cold idle

RACE ON!!!
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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since when does a corvette run in the 170 temp range? WOW!
i dont think the problem is related, but i cant wait to see if im an idiot or not, please keep us posted~
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 06:57 PM
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I let it run for 30 minutes in the garage and it got up to 220* and the fans kicked in like normal. The idle dropped down to 900 rpm and stayed there. I did noticed it idled high on a restart. Will do a IAC reset tomorrow. Stay tuned.

Last edited by Dads90; Sep 8, 2007 at 07:03 PM. Reason: didn't finish
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI

When the ECM commands a fast idle, the throttle, and therefore the TPS voltage, never changes. ECM commands and vacuum leaks don't move the throttle blades. TPS stands for Throttle POSITION Sensor.

If the TPS has been moved to to send a voltage greater than the normal, the ECM would not know if the throttle plates are opened or not.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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When the engine is restarted, it goes through a cannister purge, and after that is accomplished, the idle drops from 900 RPM down to 550.
Just for grins, check to see that the idle isn't being affected by the canister purge solenoid sticking open.
worth a try.............
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
When the engine is restarted, it goes through a cannister purge, and after that is accomplished, the idle drops from 900 RPM down to 550.
Just for grins, check to see that the idle isn't being affected by the canister purge solenoid sticking open.
worth a try.............
Before I dig though all my manuals can you describe what and where this canister is ? I probally have seen it and worked around it. It's worth a try. Oh, I did replace the IAC months ago and the new autozone didn't make a difference so I put back the original stock IAC. I did clean it though.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
If the TPS has been moved to to send a voltage greater than the normal, the ECM would not know if the throttle plates are opened or not.
Doesn't my vette have an unadjustable TPS ? I did drill out the bottom hole so I could adjust it, after messing with it I saw a post about it not being necessary to adjust. So it sets unadjusted right now. May put my volt meter on it anyway.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Dads90
Doesn't my vette have an unadjustable TPS ? I did drill out the bottom hole so I could adjust it, after messing with it I saw a post about it not being necessary to adjust. So it sets unadjusted right now. May put my volt meter on it anyway.
Your right, the 90 TPS is not adjustable..........see what the volt reading is.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI

When the ECM commands a fast idle, the throttle, and therefore the TPS voltage, never changes. ECM commands and vacuum leaks don't move the throttle blades. TPS stands for Throttle POSITION Sensor.
If the TPS has been moved to to send a voltage greater than the normal, the ECM would not know if the throttle plates are opened or not.
"If the TPS has been moved". If! If I had... There was no mention of moving or changing the TPS adjustment. You are trying to create a situation here, that the OP hasn't indicated exists. As I said, if the idle is too fast because of a ECT sensor or a vacuum leak, the throttle and therefore throttle position sensor doesn't move.

Checking the TPS voltage, other than confirming that it is within the non-adjustable TPS standards and establishing that it is functioning properly, will prove nothing. Whatever the voltage, the computer accepts the lowest reading as closed throttle.

RACE ON!!!
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