C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Extracting a broken knock-sensor? Need advice.

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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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Default Extracting a broken knock-sensor? Need advice.

Hello everyone at CF!

I need advice on the extraction of a broken knock-sensor. The sensor head broke off when I was trying to remove it so I could replace it with a new one. So, I have about a 1/4 inch or less of the sensor's bolt section just sticking out of the engine block now. Apparently the previous owner or service tech either over torqued the sensor or put on some/too much thread-lok (type) or other sealant type stuff on it. I see red on the visible threads, so I am assuming it could be RVT sealant.

Well, how should I approach to extraction of the remaining knock-sensor bolt part?

~Chris
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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Vice grips?
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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I snaped mine off and used Vise Grips as stated in the previous post. If not perhaps tach welding an old socket to it might work, been there done that also with good results
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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I've been trying to use channel-loc pliers...not good enough results. I'll got to vise-grips tonight or tomorrow, but I also think I need to use some penetrator type spray/oil.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 02:06 PM
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Cut a slice in it with a wheel, and try to get it out with a screwdriver?
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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A pipe wrench may be a viable option.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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Kinda doubt WD 40 or similar will help if the threads are coated with some type of RTV. Heat on just the sensor nub may work. If all else fails drill and use an easy out.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:19 PM
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Well, no luck with the vise grips of the penitrating lub. It's in such an ackward spot...it's the one on the passenger's side with the transmission lines that go to the radiator.

Is there anything out there that can eat at RTV sealant?

I think I'm going to try the tap-n-easy out method. But since it is in such an awkward spot, I'll need to buy a extra long drill bit to get a hole in it at a proper angle.

I'll have to wait until Sunday to try it thought...too busy tomorrow.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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I would be afraid,very afraid of a long drill bit. Very hard to keep straight. Would a right angle drill be better, even if you had to rent one? I don't know. Long drill bits scare me.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Well, it boiled down to getting my bother-in-law (a mechanic) to take on the problem and fix it.

He had some more specialty tool to work with...I'm glad I have him in my family!

First, he tried a specialty type of vise grip pliers, and that did not work.

The next day, he brought in his angled air-drill and professional extractor set. Well, he drilled a hole and tried to extract...the bit dug in and then spun. He then tried the next size up...same result. Three more times...same result.

Finally, (same night) he had his tap bit to rethread the hole...he drilled out mostly what was left of the sensor bolt and rethreaded it...basically the same threads just removing the sensor metal from the thread grooves.

So, all is well once again and I can finish my radiator replacement and a few other things!

Moral of the story...don't over torque the knock sensors and leave them untouch for years!

~Chris

Last edited by stearnman; Sep 20, 2007 at 12:31 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 02:01 PM
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Or you could have removed the drain plug from the driver's side, and relocated it.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by htrdbmr
Or you could have removed the drain plug from the driver's side, and relocated it.

You mean the left drain plug hole that already has the left bank knock sensor in it!
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