Pete K

No problem at all
keep the pics coming. They are handy for others when doing a search

KeyWestJack

I'll say. This thread keeps getting better and better.

Sliding

Where are those small filters located?
I'm working at the pump now and I wouldn't like to skip something.



Is this the right seal for pump?

Pete K

The 2 small thimble screens go into the case. The exact location is not easy to describe, but it is marked in the service manual.
They go in 2 hiles in the worm track.
The blue teflon seals are the correct replacements for the white factory seals.

Sliding

Found it. Thanks.

Sliding

A few updates:

I've finished with all large assemblies, and it's all ready to go into case.
Pump, input clutch housing with all the clutches allready inside, reverse
input clutch and it's housing are still out, while output side is allready
installed into case.



I plan to install assemble everything together as soon as I finish with
valve body modifications according to TransGo instructions.

I started to work on valve body today. Here are a few pics:

Pete K

As you drill the v/b for the transgo kit, keep a small magnet close to the bit. It will help catch most of the filings. I always clean up with a magnet first, then solvent, followed by carb cleaner, then brake cleaner, then air dry.

Sliding

Thanks for the tips!

Sliding

I have installed a new TV valve that came with TransGo kit And I have
also installed a new Upshift sleeve ( 4th WOT upshift ).
Problem is that new sleeve went really easy into bore and when I
installed pin that is holding it in position it can still move.
It can't get out but I can rotate it freely with fingers about 10 degrees
left and right.
Is this normal or shoud I reuse stock sleeve?
I preped everything for stick shift option so is it even important
to use new sleeve?

Pete K

All normal
Use the new sleeve, and sleep easy

Sliding

Thank you Pete!

Boob

Great clean and organized work.

Sliding

Thanks!
I'm doing everything really slowly and with great care to all details
and to have everything as clean as possible.

PBA

If you are going above 5,500rpm on WOT shifts, you will want to drill the plug you installed in the reverse input piston to .065" I have seen in the past with this plug installed "as is" that the clutches centrifuge in this pack. About 11 years ago I stopped adding the plug with no problems. Make sure you "do not" install the drilled allen screw in the stator support. Some of the aftermarket stator supports come with this as an option for the 700R4, leave it out. In the 4L60E they stopped using the small feed hole in the stator support and went with a large feed hole and a matching large hole in the reverse input drum. By leaving out the allen screw on the 700R4 stator support, you are allowing more oil to go to the reverse input clutch apply, and this will overcome the bleed orfice that is in the reverse input piston much easier (slightly quicker reverse engagement). This will help improve the feed/bleed system that GM uses here.

Sliding

Thank you for the input!
I'm not sure about where exactly this allen screw should be located?!
I'll have to check in manual.

This is the progress:



- valve body is assembled and ready to be installed
- everything except pump is in tranny case

I have tried to turn input shaft with hand and it turns in both ways
(one side harder than other)
But, when I try to turn output shaft, it only turns in one direction.
IS THIS NORMAL?
TransGo instruction say that it should turn both ways (also one way
harder than other) with assembled tranny.

Should I presoak 2-4 band (kevlar) in ATF?

Pete K

All normal. Be sure to soak the band in atf. Anything with a friction lining requires soaking for 30 minutes or more.

thirdtimevetteowner

I know this is off-topic some, but I have a general question about the cost of rebuilding an automatic in my son's Ford F350 4WD that puked a while ago. Is $2200 in line for a R & R and complete rebuild by a reputable local tranny shop? Seems kind high, but it is a lot of work. Not sure of his warranty, but have yet to hear a bad word on any of his rebuilds. Thanks for any input, and sorry about hi-jacking this thread.

Rich K

Sliding

Thanks!

1. With everything assembled like in the pic above (no pump), is it normal
to be able to pull input shaft up 0.12" - 0.15" with reverse input clutch housing standing in place?

2. With pump in place I'm at .017" - 0.18 endplay but I have to push input shaft down first and then pull it up to have that value,
and I have to pull it really hard. Should I be O.K.? Manual says .015" - .036"

Pete K

Perfectly normal. Assuming that you are not flexing the dial indicator mount as you pull up. If you want to add a couple of thousanths, take the selective washer (under the rev drum torrington bearing) and flat sand it slightly on a piece of wood with sandpaper attached. That will knock off the small burrs and high spots. You are not going to change the endplay much, but it should make it .001.-.002 bigger.

Pete K

If it is a 4wd truck, with the E4OD trans, $2200 is a deal.